Currently Being ModeratedApr 17, 2011 12:53 AM (in response to ltattan)
That Aluminium Foil trick worked for me too! Thanks
Currently Being ModeratedApr 18, 2011 12:50 PM (in response to BizNav)
Thank God for you guys!!! I'm typing this reply out on my Apple Wireless Keyboard (aluminum, non-alphanumeric) after finally getting it paired and connected.
I spent the day unscrewing and screwing the %^%$# Aluminum cap. Once or twice it said it PAIRED, but would not connect. I then Iet it "SEARCH" as I unscrewed it (turning it off); then screwing it back (turning it on) during the searching process, BINGO the PASSKEYS came up, entered them, and VIOLA!! Maybe that was a fluke, but my fingers are crossed.
I can't believe the Apple Techs aren't following this thread. Maybe its a case of DENIAL!
Anyway to BizNav:
What to do with the gum in the tinfoil... Let's all send the gum, chewed or not, to the APPLE SUPPORT CREW. Judging by the number of posts on this subject there must be thousands of users out there about to pull their hair out. One hint though, don't take the gum or your keyboard to your APPLE STORE. They like to sell these things but my experience is that I know more about troubleshooting than they do... and I'm at the bottom of the food chain on fixing things.
Thanks BizNav, I saved $69.00 !
Currently Being ModeratedApr 19, 2011 7:46 AM (in response to JasonBChen)
I had this probem too and after doing some Googling, found this: "If Apple Wireless Keyboard Won't Turn On"
I tried it, worked like a champ. Now the question is, why did this happen in the first place... :-/
Currently Being ModeratedApr 19, 2011 8:17 AM (in response to bigg_doggie)
A FINAL NOTE:
Like most electronics, seems the tiny board elements keep a nascent charge for a few minutes... Even after removing the batteries. Allow the charge to dissipate (get another cup of coffee, go to the bathroom); then after CLEANING THE BATTERY TERMINALS and the TWIST CAP, along with the POSITIVE END OF THE TUBE, with Alcohol, (use a Q-tip taped to a Popcicle stick); then with the PLUS end of the batteries IN first... You have in effect (batteries IN remember) re-virgin-ized the unit. The keyboard PAIRS right away. If your Man-cave is pretty dusty like mine, you'll have to perform this task either every time the power dies at the house, or every 6-months, or after a full moon, which ever occurs to you first.
'Keep your stick on the ice: we're all in this together' --Red-Green
Currently Being ModeratedApr 30, 2011 2:37 AM (in response to JasonBChen)
I do think my problem is the same as the original post. ON indication (green light) even does not turn on after battery replacement.
I truly think there is a desgin/reliability concern on the spring at the bottom of the battery compartment, it means, mecahnical defect that makes the spring get 'stuck' after several months or even a year not replacing/removing batteries.
Solution: I did small aluminum paper ball of around 5-8 milimeters and place it at the battery compartment before placing the batteries.
Now kb is working again (I'm typing on it).
Hope this may help any of you.
Currently Being ModeratedMay 2, 2011 3:09 PM (in response to JasonBChen)
Same problem... new batteries, no light coming on, dead wireless keyboard.
This worked instantly for me. Insert the batteries, then crunch up a small piece of foil and insert between the batteries and the end screw cap (which will fit more snugly). Good as new (I'm using the offending keyboard right now).
Currently Being ModeratedMay 14, 2011 7:19 AM (in response to masmayhem)
I could not believe it worked again when I put in the aluminium foil. so pleased I found this forum
Currently Being ModeratedMay 16, 2011 1:05 PM (in response to kinghj80)
Thanks to everyone who has kept this thread alive. I just had the same problem, and the little ball of aluminum foil proves to have been the solution!
Currently Being ModeratedMay 26, 2011 12:55 AM (in response to JasonBChen)
Worked for me too. The first ball I made was too small and didn't work. It ended up being a coin shape with diameter 4mm. I made another one which was 6mm in diameter. Boom! Green light. Bad apple! Bad design, but they probably fixed it with the updated model (the one that only needs 2 AA batteries)
Currently Being ModeratedJun 6, 2011 9:06 AM (in response to daStevo)
I can confirm the alumnimum ball trick works. Just did it and saved my self some money. Thanks!
Currently Being ModeratedJun 11, 2011 10:01 PM (in response to JasonBChen)
Same problem, same solution: Tin foil worked for me too. Definitely not premium quality you have to fix it like this.
Currently Being ModeratedJul 8, 2011 2:55 PM (in response to JasonBChen)
So the solution was a tiny piece of foil, and not packets of fresh batteries or hours of troubleshooting. Grrrrr......
Currently Being ModeratedJul 15, 2011 7:39 PM (in response to masmayhem)
I can't believe the foil trick works. This is some bs because my keyboard worked fine on my IPad
Currently Being ModeratedJul 29, 2011 9:28 PM (in response to petergole)
Here's how I got the gray plastic ring out:
I used a piece of 1/4" diameter AllThread, which is a 1/4" rod that is threaded along it's entire length (like a very long bolt).
It comes in various lengths but the shortest is probably three feet. (Most hardware stores carry it.) Of course it only has to be the length of the batteries plus another 6" to hold on to. Note that 5/16" all thread might have worked even better because it wouldn't flex at all.
First let me describe the gray plastic ring that I extracted.
It could be described as two shapes molded into one part.
1. a flat disc with a hole in the center. 2. a very short tube (no more than 1/8" long).
Note that the hole in the center was not used to get ahold of the plastic ring at all.
The inside face of the short tube is what I grabbed, (using the threads on the tip of the AllThread).
I tipped the keyboard so that the battery compartment opening was down. I placed the AllThread up into the battery compartment so the the tip of the AllThread was resting on the inside face of the plastic ring's short tubular surface. I then used the AllThread to press the plastic tube against the side of the battery compartment so that the threads of the tip of the rod were pressing very firmly against the inside face of the plastic tube. (To Clarify: I applied lateral pressure only.) At that point I slowly pulled the AllThread (while maintaining sideways pressure) and the ring slowly came out.
Once It was out, I set the ring on top of the positive end of a battery with the flat disc part of the ring against the battery, so I could see down into the open tube of the plastic ring as it rested on the end of the battery. With the keyboard still positioned with the opening down, I slid the battery (with plastic ring on it) up into the compartment followed carefully by two more batteries (my keyboard takes three, though some only take two). Then I just put on the battery cap and the keyboard fired right up.
I hope this helps.
Currently Being ModeratedAug 9, 2011 1:39 PM (in response to gjet)
Tin foil solution just worked for me, too. Thanks.