Will this person also get this response.
Yes, we all see what others post.
This is the best that I can come up with for what system I have. iMac G5 Tiger iLife OS X10.4 AHT version 2.5.3 Disc version 1.1 Mac OS 9.2
As I may have mentioned, G5 iMacs were known to develop display issues. There was even a recall on some models, though that has now expired. I don't know if what you are seeing was the feature of that recall, but when I see "G5" and "display" and "problem", it doesn't surprise me.
I have done the apple hardware test, everything passed
I think we commented on the limitations of AHT.
We had shut down the computer two weeks ago and had moved it to another room. It was not used during that time. All these problems have started since we moved it back to it's normal spot.I did think maybe the remote was causing problems as it was in the other room all this time. However it is back on the side of the computer and things have not changed although starting yesterday I cannot put the computer to sleep, it starts right back up again, but I was able to put the computer to sleep using the the remote today.
Was the computer unplugged all the time? If so, it is possible the PRAM battery is getting low. This stores certain hardware configuration parameters used at startup. Usually with displays it will be more a matter of a display not showing anything when you start up the computer but who knows.
Texas Mac Man's PRAM, battery, PMU tutorial - https://sites.google.com/site/macpram/mac-pram-nvram-cuda-pmu-battery-tutorial
Apple's PRAM reset directions - http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
If you have a digital multimeter you can check the condition of your present battery. It should read at least 3.2V if it is the 3.6V half-AA battery type. A new battery provides 3.67 Volts DC. A bad battery provides under 3.2 Volts DC. Ideally this should be measured while the battery is under load; added recommendation from Hans777:
>I have recently found out that an exhausted battery will still indicate >3.6 V with a high internal resistance VM.
>
>Checking incircuit: powercord disconnected press PMU reset button for >about 5 sec before measuring.
>
>Checking outside: load the battery with a 1500 Ohm resistor when measuring.
Alternatively, test the battery while it is still in the computer.
If the battery is more than 5 years old, especially if you totally disconnect the computer from the power regularly, or have left it unplugged for several months at one time, it is likely the battery is dead.
This is getting a bit more in depth on doing a hardware reset. Maybe a bit more technical than you want but I would seriously consider it.
iMac G5: How to Reset the SMU|http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1767
Another thought is maybe the moving of the computer dislodged something. I don't know if these have a soldered on card or if it can be removed, in which case maybe it got loose. This is starting to sound more like a question that should be posted on the iMac or PowerPC forum rather than Tiger.
If I phone the (apple tech) will they be able to figure out the problem and fix it for their $60.00 charge, or are they going to tell me that it has to be fixed at a service store?
Unlikely. They will tell you many of the things we have. They will then tell you to take it to an Apple repair place. The place will take one look at it and then try to find the oldest person on their staff who may actually remember a computer that is older than 4 years. Okay, I may be going too far, but not too much. They really are not used to working on anything that is more than a couple of years old because it just isn't worth it (from their perspective if they owned it). We bought an iPhone 4s recently and when I asked the Apple Store person about battery life he said, "Oh it will last at least 2 years, but the battery can't be replaced which doesn't matter because by that time you will be thinking of buying a new model anyway." Fine; it wasn't for me anyway; a keeper of 10-year old Macs. I digress. Anyway, you will find if it is hardware related that even if they can find the parts it will cost more to fix than to buy a new used one. If you're lucky a new PRAM battery and/or a SMU reset will fix it. Those are things I would do myself. If you are not sure whether you're supposed to apply the pointy end or the fat end of a screwdriver to the screw then maybe you could take it to a service place and have them do it, drawing the line at $60.