Currently Being ModeratedAug 16, 2012 9:15 AM (in response to H AND J)
This article I googled up:
says there is one extra screw under the Apple sticker near the cord. You must either poke a hole in the sticker or remove it for access.
Currently Being ModeratedAug 16, 2012 1:50 PM (in response to H AND J)
Please do the google thing. There are a number of articles on the subject but it's hard to sort through all of them to figure out which apply to the M7803. One link was clearly marked as the 7803 but the site was 404.
Try search by "Apple USB keyboard repair" or "Apple USB keyboard takeapart" if search for "M7803 takeapart" doesn't work.
Currently Being ModeratedAug 16, 2012 7:12 PM (in response to Allan Jones)
Yeah, I know they want me to buy a new keyboard, but is the kind of keyboard I like to use.
Besides, I traded in three (3) keyboards for this one keyboard.
One was an Apple Adjustable (ADB), other two where third-party keyboards, also ADB.
Currently Being ModeratedAug 16, 2012 8:32 PM (in response to H AND J)
Hey! I found it on an old computer in the guest room. It's teh same one linked to Niagra College but with a slightly different URL:
This is for the M7803
Currently Being ModeratedAug 16, 2012 9:26 PM (in response to H AND J)
The biggest headache with separating the top and bottom plastics is unsnapping the catches (tabs and slots) along the bottom leading edge of the keyboard. Apple's industrial designers went overboard incorporating invisible fasteners on its computer hardware. When the product is new, the plastics have greater flexibility for unsnapping, but after aging, the brittle nature of plastics becomes apparent. I partially separated a used Pro keyboard I bought, but didn't want to take the chance of breaking those catches. With the bottom housing tilted open as far as it would go, I slipped in a piece of cardboard wrapped with masking tape, to catch the pet hair that had gotten inside it. What was left was blown out with compressed air. The cleaning job wasn't as complete as I would have preferred, but I didn't want a loose joint from broken catches. Why couldn't they have used (3) mini-screws along the bottom edge, to tightly secure it together? Beyond that, it's a nice-looking keyboard. I've got four of them - two with the black keys, one with white keys, and one with ivory/light tan keys.
Currently Being ModeratedAug 17, 2012 1:03 PM (in response to Jeff)
Thx, Jeff, I think there is a screw dead center of the keyboard, in front of the Apple logo on the back.
It seems that something is holding the center of the keyboard.
I am going to try to remove a couple of key caps to see if my guess is correct.
The outer edges are free, so I think that the tabs and/or slots does not seem the likely hiccup on releasing the back of the keyboard.
I will posted my results soon
Currently Being ModeratedAug 17, 2012 2:58 PM (in response to H AND J)
Hi there, guys and gals. To all whom viewed my post, thx for looking at it.
To whom replied, many thx, ur input was beneficial to my thinking about the keyboard.
My guess was correct, I removed two key caps to find the third screw that was holding the center from front and back.
I will post a complete tear down of this model of keyboard.
I am NOT posting pics of the tear down, you don't need them if you what ur doing.
To all, many thx, H AND J
Currently Being ModeratedAug 17, 2012 6:01 PM (in response to H AND J)
Here is my posting of the tear down.
You can follow my order of removal or just make sure you remove ALL screws I have outlined in this tear down.
"Tear down: Pro Keyboard (USB/M7803).
First, remove four (4) screws from back.
Located near USB ports, left and right (2).
Two (2) more, near adjuster on bottom, L and R.
FYI: DIYers, I used clear tape to hold these small screws as NOT to lose them. A small container for the key caps and other small pieces you will remove. A can of compressed air is an ideal item.
Next, front should release from keyboard.
Remove plastic insert around cursor & f13 to f15 keys. Find two (2) plastic strips @ top front of keyboard and remove.
Next, remove two (2) screws from holder for USB cable from front and remove holder.
Next, remove the following key caps: left shift key, two (2) key caps to right of "L" key and two (2) key caps to right of numeral five (5) on numerical keypad. After removal of key caps, you will find three (3) more screws to remove. At this point, bottom adjuster will come free, retain pin holders for adjuster.
Next, on back under top label is a screw to be loosened. I could NOT get screw to come free, so I put a piece of tape over to retain screw. The back/bottom will come free and a metal shield for USB controller.
I rinsed all clear plastic with cool water. NO Soap Required! I used a small damp tooth brush for between key caps and outer edges. Removed key caps where rinsed.
If your keyboard is REALLY dirty, you can rinse complete keyboard. NO Soap, Period!
Let any washed/rinsed items COMPLETELY air dry.
If you are in a rush to reassemble keyboard, use PLENTY of compressed air and shake lose any H2O.
One final word, be ginger when handling keyboard, do NOT force anything apart or you break part(s). If you are NOT familiar with this tear down, I suggest you take your keyboard to some one with more experience with such item(s). This tear down should work with similar kind(s) of keyboard(s) (Model #: M7803).
Good luck and have some fun with this tear down.
It could encourage you to tackle other kinds of repair(s), fixes and DIY project(s)."
Thx, one and all, H AND J
Currently Being ModeratedAug 18, 2012 6:13 PM (in response to H AND J)
A correction to tear down; the key cap to remove on the left side is: "CAPS Lock".
Not the "shift" key as indicated in tear down.
Oops, my bad, I discovered my error upon rebuild of keyboard.
To err is human, to forgive is divine.
Sorry for the mix-up, but if you know what you are doing, you would have figured out my mistake, anyways.
Thx, H and J