Currently Being ModeratedNov 3, 2012 12:49 PM (in response to papalapapp)
Note that for RAW files, you can also alter the settings in the RAW Fine Tuning Brick, and save them as a default that is always applied to files from your camera.
Do you have a hardware-calibrated monitor? If you are making exposure decisions based on sight, it is important that you are correcting to a standard (calibration calibrates your monitor to a standard) and not wasting your time correcting for out-of-standard devices.
Currently Being ModeratedNov 3, 2012 1:11 PM (in response to Kirby Krieger)
Thanks Kirby, the import-with-preset method might be the closest solution. The raw fine tuning brick presets I use a lot for different types of subjects. It would be ideal if it had an exposure slider.
I have not yet calibrated my monitor (I was browsing amazon for the spyder today), do you recommend a specific device?
Currently Being ModeratedNov 3, 2012 1:30 PM (in response to papalapapp)
I use and happily recommend X-Rite's Color Munki Photo as a worthwhile entry into hardware calibration of monitors and printers, but my limited experience shouldn't limit you from finding out about other units. The Color Munki Photo has recently been replaced by a newer unit. Search the forum for "hardware calibration" for more posts on the topic. Whatever you get, make sure it is a true photospectrometer, and that it works with your monitor (e.g.: many NEC monitors have built-in look-up-tables (LUTs) which (afaik) can be accessed and altered only by their own software -- SpectraView 2 -- which does a better job with their monitors. SpectraView works with the Color Munki Photo.) Aside from hardware calibration, there are environmental and other concerns worth addressing. I mention a few of them in this post.