Currently Being ModeratedFeb 17, 2013 1:50 PM (in response to slothead)
Can we please end this discussion? We all know the bottom line:
The battery compartment is not properly designed. The positive contact in the battery compartment is to deep for all AA batteries to make continuous contact. The batteries (if not manufactured with long positive terminals) have to be exactly positioned to prevent some random movements of the battery from causing an interruption of the necessary contact. Apple makes mistakes too and they also can't control the manufacturing tolerances of all AA bateries.
Personally I am unsubbing from this thread because I am tired of hearing everyone's input (that always seems to end up saying the same thing. Maybe if enough of us unsub, it will just go away (there is much less of a chance that Apple will ever get the message that they need to better design the battery comparment of the mouse - even though all they have to do is thin the plastic that separates the battery from the positive mouse contact).
I agree with you, Slothead. I posted an explanation and solution right near the beginning of this thread and in at least one other thread too. The trouble is this thread is so long now, either nobody has the time or they don't have the inclination to read all the way through this huge thread to find such nuggets of information. So they just see the junk (for want of a better word really - no offence intended) at the end. So, rather than post here, perhaps one might better off starting one's own thread. It's a shame one can't bookmark or, better still, link to individual posts for later reference.
Currently Being ModeratedMar 10, 2013 7:19 PM (in response to ChadwickS)
I think ChadwickS's suggestion has a lot of merit.
I know that the voltage numbers don't always indicate the amount of actual power, but lots Mac of connection problems -- with devices that are set up and functioning normally -- are related to power. This has always been a problem with USB, for example.
Rechargeable AAs with 1.5 volts are availabke online. I'm going to try a couple of those.
Currently Being ModeratedMar 25, 2013 5:06 PM (in response to ArnieB)
Thank-you, I read through the first few posts and then went and put new batteries also in my key board as well as my mouse - problem solved, the low connection in my keyboard was stuffing up my mouse - thank-you everybody
Currently Being ModeratedMar 26, 2013 9:21 AM (in response to ArnieB)
This happened to me a lot until I discovered that it only occurred when I tilted the mouse up at an angle after trying to bring it back to the center of my mouse pad. With the new 27" screen, my mouse pad is not large enough for me to span the length of my screen.
Try keeping your mouse completely flat on your mouse pad. If you have to lift it, keep it level.
Currently Being ModeratedMar 28, 2013 6:39 AM (in response to slothead)
If it was a Bluetooth issue, it should also affect the keyboard, so the "something is wrong with the mous' battery compartment" gives meaning. I have not read anything about keyboard losing connection, just the mouse...
Currently Being ModeratedApr 15, 2013 3:54 AM (in response to Kallu22)
Hi: a year ago you said "I had a simiar issue a month or so ago with the wireless modem dropping out due to conflict with my cordless (landline) phone radio signal. That was resolved by changing the channel on the modem. Again, so far so good." I'm having the same problem every time I use my cordless landline phone. However, I'm not sure how to change the channel on the modem. I'd really be grateful for help: it's very annoying!
Currently Being ModeratedApr 26, 2013 3:08 AM (in response to ArnieB)
This was really annoying. but very easy to fix. It is a bad design issue with the batteries. Open the back, and wedge a post-it (or similar between the batteries to lodge them against the sides. Then, before putting the battery cover back on, put another folded post-it bewteen the cover and the batteries to ensure there is absolutely no battery movement. This totally nailed it. Can I have my $10,000 fixers fee now please Apple?
Currently Being ModeratedJun 7, 2013 1:24 PM (in response to ArnieB)
After months of aggravation/lost connections....and having read a few dozen posts, the simplest solution on this entire thread solved my problem.
The folded piece of paper in the battery compartment did the trick: two weeks, no lost connection.
Since it costs nothing and takes almost NO TIME TO DO, I would strongly suggest you start with a folded piece of paper in the battery compartment - before you even so much as turn bluetooth on/off, or re-installing anything.
Thank you to whoever suggested it first !
Currently Being ModeratedJun 8, 2013 4:05 AM (in response to ArnieB)
Had same problem with Penguin Verticle mouse. Found the mouse wireless connection was in conflict with my logitech wireless keyboard. I unintalled keyboard and mouse wireless drivers, replaced my logitech wireless keyboard with a wired keyboard that came with the computer and reinstalled the Penguin mouse driver and it works perfectly without losing connection.
Currently Being ModeratedJul 18, 2013 9:31 AM (in response to ArnieB)
I've been dogged with issues with the magicmouse that were vibration and battery caused and have found a great solution.
I've got some sticky foam some 1/3" (10mm) wide and only 1/16" (1-2mm thick), I've cut a length around 1" (25mm) long and for the time being have stuck this along the two batteries holding them together and put the cover back on.
Since then it has't dropped out once! Once i know this is a definite fix I will replace the batteries and put a new peice of tape on the battery cover!!!
Currently Being ModeratedJul 23, 2013 9:52 AM (in response to YoanDJ)
I've been using Blu Tak for several years now. Just a tiny bit inside of the cover over each battery.
Only use a tiny bit, just enough to do the job. If you use too much, you'll have difficulty removing the cover to get the batteries out for recharging. Otherwise, works like a charm.