Kaos2K

Q: [GUIDE] Fix iMac flickering and dark screen problems out of warranty

If you have a Late 2009 27" iMac and are having problems with those annoying problems of flickering and parts of your screen are becoming darker (On the left side primary) you may want to consider this easy guide to fix it if you run out of warranty, have no Apple Care and Apple wanted to charge you about $600 to replace your screen. You need no tools and the cost os this procedure is 0.

 

 

First Step: Be sure that you are experiencing the same symptoms

 

 

This guide is only to resolve flickering and dimming problems on you iMac screen. Primary occurring on the left side (becoming darker or with less brightness than the other side) and on Late 2009 27" iMacs but there are cases of the same problem on later computers too.

 

 

Check/Read all of these posts to know if your case is the same:

 

 

 

 

Thanks to the findings of nicholasfromconfolens we know that the problem resides in some parts of the screen getting loose for any reason (factory problem, heat, whatever) and if you apply pressure at certain point the flickering/dimming/darking disappears. The problem is that you need to maintain that pressure all the time.

 

 

Second Step: Find the correct spot to apply pressure

 

 

Without removing the glass panel of the iMac, try to press it strong enough (but don't use excessive force or you could break it) near the bottom left part to see if the dark/flickering disappears at some point. If it does, you are lucky, your problem has easy solution and you can proceed to the next step. If not, don't despair, your glass panel may be very strong and you will need to remove it to apply pressure. Head to the next step.

 

 

Third Step: Removing the glass panel

 

 

It is recommended to use suction cups to make this task more easily but it's not mandatory, you can remove the glass with your hands. The glass panel uses magnets to get in place all around and has some flaps on the bottom part. To remove it you need to hold it from the upper right and left corners and make force towards you, once it get loose just elevate it to remove the bottom flaps from its holes. You can follow these links with guides that clarifies this a bit more:

 

 

 

 

 

Fourth Step: Pinpoint the correct spot to press and place something to maintain the pressure

 

 

Once the glass panel has been removed, you must find where is the best point to apply pressure to get rid of the dimming/darking/flickering. The most common point is the left side between the rubber band of the screen and the grey band below. (See the photos for better understanding).

 

 

Once you find the best spot, you need to place there something to increase the thickness in that point and to maintain pressure when the glass panel is mounted again. I suggest you to use a pair of adhesive strips/pads mounted one over the other made of rubber or textile material that are used to put under furniture (chairs, tables) to prevent them to scratch the floor (I don't know the exact name in English, sorry).

 

 

Fifth Step: Mount the glass panel again

 

 

Mount the glass panel again and see if the pressure is enough to prevent the problem appearing again. If not, you should dismount the glass panel again and add more thickness to the "critical" spot adding more pads, but beware, add them gradually or the pressure may be excessive and break the glass when you remount it.

 

 

Final Step:

 

 

Enjoy your "new" screen and the saving of nearly $600 on repair costs.

 

 

Here below you can fin some photos and a video of my "set-up" to fix the problem.

 

 

Foto 19-06-12 14 23 56.jpgFoto 19-06-12 14 25 09.jpg

Foto 19-06-12 14 25 17.jpg

Foto 19-06-12 14 29 33.jpgFoto 19-06-12 14 29 19.jpgFoto 19-06-12 14 31 12.jpg

 

 

 

iMac 27" (Late 2009) Flickering And Dark Screen Fix (VIDEO)

 

 

 

I hope this guide helps you. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

iMac, Mac OS X (10.6.4), No tools required

Posted on Jun 19, 2012 8:49 AM

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Q: [GUIDE] Fix iMac flickering and dark screen problems out of warranty

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  • by Avogadros,

    Avogadros Avogadros Oct 30, 2013 11:21 AM in response to Kaos2K
    Level 1 (4 points)
    Desktops
    Oct 30, 2013 11:21 AM in response to Kaos2K

    My 2011 27" imac started to develop problems 14 months after I bought it. It began with grey smudges appearing in the top left and top right hand corner of the screen.

    About a month later it developed the left hand side going dark grey problem.

     

    No response from Apple, didn't really expect it as it was out of warranty and foolishly no Applecare.

    I tried all the suggestions here on the is thread, I couldn't get anyone to attempt the soldering.

     

    Eventualy I had to buy a new E3 Panel from a place in China.

     

    While I was opening up the Mac I fitted an SSD. The screen is great, the SSD makes it a really fast machine. But I can imagine Apple wouldnt want anything to do with it as I've opened it up. (My iMac is one the of the machines that are elibigible for a video card replacement, there's nothing wrong with it at the moment but who knows what could happen next time I turn it on?)

     

    It will be intersting to see the outcome of the class action suit filed recently about this problem.

  • by victord_21,

    victord_21 victord_21 Nov 18, 2013 7:21 AM in response to Kaos2K
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 18, 2013 7:21 AM in response to Kaos2K

    Hey everyone. I've managed to take apart the whole screen (thanks to this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zHzNC38U8s and this end-of-life disassembly guide from a HP monitor that uses the same - or almost the same - LCD  panel: http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/Countries/_Mu ltiCountry/disassembly_monito_201197235232.pdf) and soldered the connector back in its original position. As you can see in the image below, all the pins were severed and the connector moved to the right. I just had to push the connector back in place with a screwdriver and soldered the pins. The main problem is (I think) that the plastic piece that holds the connector in place is pushing  the connector too far to the right, puts pressure on it and in time, because of the heat, severs the connections.

    Unfortunately, I only took on picture, before I soldered the pins back.

     

    Hope this helps.

     

    IMG_4358.jpg

  • by Colorwave,

    Colorwave Colorwave Nov 18, 2013 10:36 AM in response to victord_21
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 18, 2013 10:36 AM in response to victord_21

    That is very helpful photo.  For reference, what is the scale of this shot?  Can you tell me how wide the plastic connector is, so I can envision how hard a soldering project this entails?

  • by victord_21,

    victord_21 victord_21 Nov 18, 2013 11:41 AM in response to Colorwave
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 18, 2013 11:41 AM in response to Colorwave

    I'd say it around 7mm in width, it's very narrow. You definitely need a magnifying glass.

  • by FlunkedFlank,

    FlunkedFlank FlunkedFlank Nov 21, 2013 12:19 AM in response to Colorwave
    Level 1 (65 points)
    Nov 21, 2013 12:19 AM in response to Colorwave

    Colorwave: look at page 8 of this thread and you will see some pictures I took, including one with a US penny near the white connector.

     

    I originally considered the approach of taking apart the entire LCD, but decided it was too risky to do that compared to Kaos's through-the-hole approach. Once you start cracking open the layered LCD elements it's pretty much impossible to prevent dust from getting between them. (Unless if you have a proper clean room, which anyone on this thread is extremely unlikely to have.) And even besides the dust I'd be worried about putting it all back together properly. If you know enough to solder at all then you should be able to solder through the hole, as long as you follow all the tips laid out in my and Kaos' posts.

     

    Either way, if you have an affected monitor I wouldn't recommend doing anything for a bit until there's more news about the lawsuit.

  • by LilDuke,

    LilDuke LilDuke Nov 22, 2013 5:46 AM in response to FlunkedFlank
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 22, 2013 5:46 AM in response to FlunkedFlank

    Hi,

     

    I bought my 27" imac on launch day in 2009.... i was pumped for it. A few months after my warranty expired, the left side darkened. I'm really hoping that something comes of the class-action case. I haven't opened my machine yet, but I was seriously thinking about it... now, I"ll wait til there's more news.

  • by oliver.damm,

    oliver.damm oliver.damm Nov 22, 2013 7:23 AM in response to Kaos2K
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 22, 2013 7:23 AM in response to Kaos2K

    Hi all,

     

    i'm happy to find this thread and that it is still active!! I've got the same problem with my Late' 10 iMac 27".

     

    Has someone figured out a permanent solution without solder? - i try it since yesterday evening and it drives me crazy. I few times I thought the problem is solved, but just until the screen is back in the case. Or if it goes better the Mac works for a few minutes/hours normaly and the the dark half appears again :-(

     

    heeeelp ;-)

  • by Kaos2K,

    Kaos2K Kaos2K Nov 22, 2013 7:26 AM in response to oliver.damm
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 22, 2013 7:26 AM in response to oliver.damm

    Sorry but there is no solution without soldering or opening the computer.

  • by oliver.damm,

    oliver.damm oliver.damm Nov 22, 2013 7:29 AM in response to Kaos2K
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 22, 2013 7:29 AM in response to Kaos2K

    Thanks for your quick answer :-)

     

    I've opened it already and try to fix it with tape or put something between the white connector and the socket to prevent the connector slipping to deep.

    But it seems to work until it is getting warm..

  • by Kaos2K,

    Kaos2K Kaos2K Nov 22, 2013 7:31 AM in response to oliver.damm
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 22, 2013 7:31 AM in response to oliver.damm

    Yeah, i did the same until i found that those solutions are only temporary (Check the first posts of this topic). That was when i figured out the real problem and fixed it by soldering. No issues since then.

  • by oliver.damm,

    oliver.damm oliver.damm Nov 22, 2013 7:33 AM in response to Kaos2K
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 22, 2013 7:33 AM in response to Kaos2K

    ****, could u give me some hints? My skills in soldering are not that well and i don't want to ruine the whole screen ;-)

  • by Kaos2K,

    Kaos2K Kaos2K Nov 22, 2013 7:35 AM in response to oliver.damm
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 22, 2013 7:35 AM in response to oliver.damm

    Yeah, i posted some hints for an user in this thread (Don't remember in wich page exactly  but i swear they exist hehe). Please check the thread if you don't mind

  • by oliver.damm,

    oliver.damm oliver.damm Nov 22, 2013 7:37 AM in response to Kaos2K
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 22, 2013 7:37 AM in response to Kaos2K

    Okay, thank u very much!!

  • by sully44,

    sully44 sully44 Nov 28, 2013 3:20 AM in response to Kaos2K
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 28, 2013 3:20 AM in response to Kaos2K

    Count me in for the second time now- mid 2010 imac 27 inch- just out of apple care- I have allready 1 year ago had apple fix scrren this under apple care- and now as i am just out of apple care it has happened again- i will not attempt to open machine till i bring in to apple store next week- i will keep you posted on apple response- i expect to be told"sorry, your out of warranty. 600$ to fix"- they allready told me on the phone that all reapirs have a 90 days guarantee only- so let's say that they fix it and I pay whatevr for that fix then i would only get 90 day coverage- sounds like a bad deal on my part if I would go that route- i will keep all posted- thanks Matt

  • by oldskull,

    oldskull oldskull Nov 30, 2013 3:00 AM in response to Kaos2K
    Level 1 (0 points)
    Nov 30, 2013 3:00 AM in response to Kaos2K

    Hi, Kaos2K habria alguna posibilidad de que te pudiera mandar un iMac para que lo arreglases?

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