Q: Magic Mouse keeps losing connection

Thanks, this solved my problem...for the moment!

I've experienced the same problem over the past few days. I have a Mobee charger and battery pack, and I leave the mouse on the pack so it is fully charged every morning. I read through the answers, and tried turning off the bluetooth on my iPhone 4s. Bingo, straight away, the problem disappeared. I find this really weird, as the phone with bluetooth on (because I frequently  pair it with my TomTom for handsfree, and my Sennheiser phones) sits next to the mouse mat. I've been doing all of that for the past 3 years. So what's changed? The only thing I can tie into this timescale is the upgrade either to iOS 8 or to 10.9.5 on my Macbook pro. Is that possible?

<-- not an Apple fanboy supporter.

DOS had SO many issues. Just like Windows. Drivers, conflicting drivers, unsupported drivers, unsupported hardware, patches, etc etc etc. Electronics have glitches. This is a fact. It doesn't matter who makes it. It will have glitches. Period. My old 386 with DOS, had glitches. My 486 with Windows, had glitches. My Pentium III with XP pro, had SO many glitches. My 2011 iMac, has just as many glitches as any computer I've ever used. But at least I don't have to figure out whether I need to call the software company, the OS company, the computer company, or the peripheral company.

So I got that going for me, which is nice.

Apple Your Magic Mouse is JUNK!   Using redneck ways of working around design flaws..add foil to the negative side, and a piece of tape, or paper to the battery door. If the mouse is designed to work with a specific battery(Apple's rechargeable batteries) then apple should supply them with the charger.

At $70.00, the Magic Mouse should not be acting this way!! 

I would be more then happy to trade Apple my Wireless Keyboard and Magic Mouse for a wired set.

I've tried paper, folded twice, a q-tip broken and inserted 'tween the batteries, cleaning the contacts with alcohol, pieces of foil on the positive or negative ends, and none of them worked.

What has been working, so far, is your suggestion.

Thanks, very much!

One more for cleaning contacts - changing batteries is so obviously NOT the sole answer, and the origami routine was a washout too. Experiments with foil elicted a half-hearted response, but some Gordons gin and a cotton bud worked wonders instantly.

I Like the idea of Gin!      I love the feel and look of the Magic Mouse, probably should have returned it though. I gave up on it in the end and bought a $15 one in JBs that works a treat.   I tried all the so called solutions but it was too frustrating in the end. For the price we shouldn't have these problems.

I have had same issues of the mouse behaving iradkic (jittery), losing connect etc.

the issue was my iPhone 6.  if its in within 3 ft of the mouse, then the mouse starts to stutter and stall.

as the iPhone gets closer, the worst the symptoms get.

Move the mouse to more that 3 ft and presto all is well again with my magic mouse and mac-book 13 (2014) with Yosemite OS.

I've also did the pram clear thing, but its just kept coming back like a bad cold.

Clearly a issue with too much bluetooth in the same area

Had the same problem for months and tried everything suggested here without success. I decided I needed a new mouse plus mobee charger. Problem persisted and out of desperation I reverted to a wired mouse intending to return both Mouse and Mobee for a refund. BUT told by Apple technical support to unplug computer then depress the power button for ten seconds (with computer still off). I was baffled as to how this could work given that no power was going to the system but did as I was told. The techie guy (thank you Nuno) explained it in a way which made sense at the time. Anyway, turned it all back on and IT WORKED! 100% of the time, no connection problems at all.

I too have had this issue, and the only things thats worked for me has been doing both of the following.

1- ( and I cannot recommend this as it's not how the mouse is supposed to be used) however I cut two small pieces of tin foil about a half inch thick  and wedged them in between the negative connecter and the batteries.

2- I took a piece of cardboard and wedged or shimmed it between the batteries and the compartment that holds them in preventing the batteries from moving around within the mouse and thereby preventing loss of connectivity between the batteries and the connectors. Between the two of these, my problems seems to be solved. i spoke to apple about this and they were willing to replace my mouse, however because I'm not near an Apple Store. i would have to lay out $75 Canadian until they got the old one back and then wait for them to refund me. It takes them too long to do thi and I don't have the $75 right now.

I think I found a work around that I haven't seen used up to this point :

1. The moment your mouse disconnects and you get the overlay (mouse disconnected message), go right over to your WiFi bars (NOT your bluetooth)

2. Turn WiFi off  !!!

3. Click on your magic mouse like 4 times in rapid succession, MBPR should re-pair with the mouse at this point rather quickly.

4. Turn you WiFi back on

5. Have a great day now that you only had to click on 2 things and never touch bluetooth settings or system pref., etc.

For me the problem was definitely related to the fact that some of the double A batteries are smaller than others. Apples rechargeable batteries are two millimetres bigger than some of the standard panasonic or energizer batteries which are 2  millimeters smaller than some of the other standard duracell and other energizer batteries. What this means, and I wrote about it here http://blei.org/blog/?p=88 is that sometimes you can buy a double A battery thats a bit smaller than others, and whats happening is that they are moving around within the chamber and losing touch with the contact points. I tpook some information off the web here http://macs.about.com/od/tipstricks/qt/Fix-Magic-Mouse-Disconnects.htm and took a small piece of cardboard and shimmed it in the back oif the battery case to hold the batteries firmly against the contact points, and I stoipped having signal dropout completly

Within this and other similar posts, it is regularly mentioned that you should buy good quality batteries and in this respect the brands most mentioned and generally acknowledged as such are Apple,  Eneloop, Energiser, and Duracell. 

You should not buy at dime a dozen stores or doubtful outlets for fear of getting fake or substandard batteries.   It is these kinds of batteries that are likely to be of irregular size and thereby provoke the kind of problem you mention.

With rare exceptions there is nothing basically wrong with the Magic mouse, and all the talk of stuffing cardboard and bits of foil in it is quite unjustified.   Of course someone will pop up and say the opposite but it would be a good bet that the need to enable the mouse this way is almost invariably due to using low grade batteries.

[. . .] there is nothing basically wrong with the Magic mouse [. . .]

Have you witnessed any of Judith Scheindlin’s cases in which she’s ruled on that adverb?

[. . .] it would be a good bet that the need to enable the mouse this way is almost invariably due to using low grade batteries.

The implicit or explicit point of several contributors to this thread is that the Magic Mouse’s battery compartment should have been designed to work perfectly well with AA batteries of any brand. I’ve had umpteen devices that have done so, including a mouse or three, and most of those devices have cost me a lot less than the Magic Mouse. Nevertheless I like the thing for what it can do, so I’m happy to keep using mine—with Energizers.

Which confirms exactly what I said.   Use the right batteries (you will note that Energiser was one of the four I named).