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  • Scott Talkington Level 1 (0 points)
    I suppose I should report on the results of trying this fix on my 2006 era MacBook. I placed a bandaid (literally) over the section of ribbon cable that I could see in the battery compartment, although I didn't know whether that was the correct cable or not. It didn't seem to have any effect on the functioning of the keyboard. However, after I started randomly punching the keys again I duplicated the infinite Carriage Return loop problem, but noticed that there was also a "y" showing just below the carriage returns. So I pressed the "y" key a second time, and not only did the CR loop stop, but the keyboard came back! From what I recall the keyboard connector cable is just at the intersect of the G, H, and Y keys... so this suggests that the problem is the cable connection. Either that, or it's a cable problem. I've had keyboards where the internal cable connector went bad, and replacing the connector piece resolved the problem. Actually this was on the Kinesis keyboard that I'm currently using. The fix was provided at no cost by the Kinesis company, so they were aware of the problem and dealt with it immediately by mailing me the part.
  • Scott Talkington Level 1 (0 points)
    I was too quick when I presumed that my keyboard problem was fixed. The "H" key now registers as some alternate character, and a number of other keys don't work at all. Basically all the letter keys work, except for the H, but most of the other keys (including the number keys) don't. I have a MacBook rather than a MacBook Pro, so I'm not sure I applied the "fix" correctly. There's only a small portion of the ribbon showing in the battery case, near the edge, so there's not much area to cover.

    I've read through this entire thread, and the keyboard problem is so common, and the various fixes so unreliable, that I'm really hesitant to purchase a new top case to repair a machine that would apparently remain subject to the same sort of failure. I'm not even entirely convinced that this is a hardware problem, or at least that it's a hardware problem alone. Unless Apple comes through with a reasonable response to this rather extensive problem, this will be the last Apple product I purchase. When my rather expensive Kinesis keyboard had problems Kinesis supplied a fix at no cost, and with minimum hassle. It's still working. The comparison doesn't flatter Apple, although of course a keyboard is a much simpler product than a laptop computer.
  • Randawg1984 Level 1 (0 points)
    Thanks, this worked!

    For those who can't get this to work, try fiddling with it a bit. My keyboard didn't start working until after putting a small, 1mm thick piece of plastic against the loose wiring, held on with masking tape.

    My guess is the battery locks into place, and the 1mm plastic causes tension between the battery and wiring, causing the wire to flatten out, thus pushing the wire back into the connection, similar to a crappy set of headphones (someone mentioned this earlier).

    How long will this work? Hopefully we don't have to think about it again. Has anyone had any more issues?

    Seems most likely due to the intense heat from the battery that many have complained about.
  • Scott Talkington Level 1 (0 points)
    Randawg1984 wrote:
    Seems most likely due to the intense heat from the battery that many have complained about.

    I'm not quite clear why a battery that's just receiving a trickle charge would be hot. Something's wrong here.

    And as I indicated above the "shim fix" didn't really work on my machine. I got a few keys back, but the keyboard is still essentially unusable. I'm not inclined to replace the keyboard until Apple signals that they're aware of the problem and have engineered a solution that actually deals with it.
  • Baughn Level 1 (0 points)
    I've got a Q3-2008 macbook pro (good timing there, as I consider the update to be rather lousy), which exhibits this problem. I'm also running linux on it, giving me some extra options. Let's see...

    I've applied the band-aid (literally, yep); I don't know yet if it'll help.

    I do have an idea of why it would, if the grounding wire is actually exposed on the underside of the wiring: Linux' error message is "hub 7-0:1.0: port 2 disabled by hub (EMI?), re-enabling..." - as you can see, it's complaining about electro-magnetic interference, eg. insufficient shielding/grounding.

    Then again, it might just be a flaky connection.
  • Baughn Level 1 (0 points)
    Yep, looks like just a flaky connection.

    After peeling off the glued-on plastic cover, then reseating the cable, it's been working perfectly. No need for any repairs here, I guess.

    Pressing on the cable would produce tension against the contacts, which'd serve to mask the bad seating, but it's really easy to fix properly.
  • n@te Level 1 (0 points)
    Seriously, you are the best! Sinds a month or two I had the same problem.. called with the Apple Center NL, go to the store I bought my MacBook Pro.. no one get a sullotion, but now.. it al fixed!
    Thanks! Really, realy thank you!

  • nbx909 Level 1 (0 points)
    I have the same problem with the keyboard and track pad being non responsive if I hit the right spot on the cable it will work however I can't get the paper in there good enough to hold it down. Any suggestions?
  • mistical Level 1 (0 points)
    @nbx909, the only thing you or anyone else can do is take it into Apple and have them replace the top case. THIS WILL fix your problem but it is NOT a definite fixing. MEANING that this may once again come back but it also may not.

    So my suggestion to you and anyone that takes it in is to take care of it once you get this done. Be careful with your trackpad, pressure, etc. Take care of it.

    When you take it in, tell them the same problem you just said and need a new top case. The Apple Genius should definitely know what you are talking about. I just had mine replaced a week ago today and so far, so good. Working great. If it happens again, take it back to them again (sadly).

    There is nothing else that will fix the problem. Putting anything in between the ribbon and battery will not work, tape, plastic, nothing. It may seem like a temporary solution but it is not.
  • nbx909 Level 1 (0 points)
    I called Apple again and the representative opened up a case regarding this problem for me and I gave him the link to this thread. He stated that if they eventually did recall and I went ahead and paid for the repairs now, if I could produce a receipt and the case # they gave me they would refund me. So if you are waiting for a recall (which I bet will happen since this is happening so much), go ahead and tell them that you have the problem that this thread describes and get a case # then go get it repaired and save your receipt. ***** that you have to pay upfront but if you are out of warranty it's the best thing to do to make sure it stays fixed, the tape/paper fix is a nice temporary fix though.
  • Bram A. andersen Level 1 (0 points)
    Works! Have run a one year long trial on humac (danish apple franchise) on this issue. This have to be good for something.

  • nbx909 Level 1 (0 points)
    Just an FYI, I had my top case and keyboard replaced and now they keyboard and track pad work as expected. Anyone have any suggestions on how to prevent this from happening again?
  • mistical Level 1 (0 points)
    @nbx9092 My suggestion to you is to take very, very good care of your trackpad. The problem lies underneath the trackpad. So be gentle with it, do not apply too much pressure to this area or get rough ever. Doing this, I can not guarantee you will not have the problem again but you may be fine with this solution.

    Other than that, you would have to take in the laptop again to have a new top-case replaced. All that is necessary is a new top-case but they would probably give you a new keyboard too.
  • Mouse In The Russell Level 1 (10 points)
    It worked for me also.
    However since it was still in warranty I thought this was a bit shabby so I took it into the Genius bar and asked them. Whilst I was there I showed them this thread which they duly noted but said was a bit ridiculous.
    They said it needed a new drive and a new logic board (sound familiar?) which they duly replaced and sure enough when I got my machine back it was working perfectly.
    Just for the **** of it I just popped out the battery to take a look if they'd done anything there.
    No they hadn't; the piece of kitchen roll and tape was still safely in place!
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