Gates,
There is some sort of test connection right above this area, with two little prongs sticking up. Marked "J1." The traces look like they go to the socket. I wonder if they use that to use alligator clips to power up the board during assembly testing? That location is much, much larger than the pads for the socket.
OK Gates, exactly which iBook logic board are we talking about here?
There is some sort of test connection right above this area, with two little prongs sticking up. Marked "J1.
Maybe you should post pics of that.
On this 1.2 GHz and 800 MHz G4 logic boards that I have here "J1" IS the power socket connector.
oh and also:
You say #26 is the right wire gauge -- that's vital data. I don't want to undersize the power leads !
The circuit we're talking about here is the "soft start" circuit typically you're grounding the base of a transistor so there is hardly any current passing through that wire so even say 40 Ga would do the job.
The socket bottom has no leads on it (anymore). They are broken off flush with the plastic on the bottom. I was thinking of using a dental burr to grind into them, creating a small cavity, and then using conductive epoxy. I don't know if the bottom plastic is thick enough; if I go too far then it would ruin the prongs sticking up in the cavity.
Ahh I gotta tell you I don't think that will work. The contact area will be so small and when you go to plug it in and reassemble the flexation will cause that connection to break.
I also have to say that your search for the exact socket will be very difficult. Even you could find one that is the right size, finding one that has the exact "keying" will be just about impossible.
Here's what I would do.
Look at this.
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll306/spudnuty/?action=view¤t=iBookpowe rsocketandwire.jpg
That wire is some fine stranded wire that I salvaged from an old broken VCR.
So I would use say 3 of strands in that wire, twist them together and solder them solid. You could practice doing this until you get it rignt. Use a very tiny iron ( like 15 Watts ) and tiny solder like .015 dia.
Prep (tin) the other end of two wires (actually I just used a hunkin' solder gun to do the ones in the pic - fast and handy )
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll306/spudnuty/?action=view¤t=preppedwi reends.jpg
and that's a mm rule under the ends. So I just position those over the broken lands and tack solder them down.
Finally I don't think you can do this repair using conductive epoxy and silicone putty. Getting the conductive in the wrong place can kill your board. Silicone in the wrong place can make resoldering of the board very difficult.
Richard
Message was edited by: spudnuty