Jack Panel Safely Remove?

Can the rear, screwed, jack panel be safely removed from the outside? The headphones jack is loose maybe because of bent metal inside.

G4 Quicksilver, Mac OS X (10.2.x)

Posted on Mar 4, 2009 10:06 AM

Reply
16 replies

Mar 4, 2009 4:02 PM in response to SG1776

Why the screws then?!


Two Phillips screws hold the Processor fan in place against the inside.

You will need to remove that fan, and the processor heat sink, and the processor, and the processor stand-offs, and the motherboard screws. Then slide the motherboard away from the I/O panel about 1/2 inch and remove it.

I believe the "shallow box" you refer to contains only the modem jack module.

Mar 4, 2009 6:55 PM in response to Grant Bennet-Alder

In the upper left of the back is a panel (5"X2") with some of the jacks. There are some cooling holes. The upper jack is for headphones and non-mac spkrs. It does not hold a plug tightly. There are screws in the panel. Will removing the screws in the panel remove the panel and allow access to the rear of the jacks? Im afraid of pulling wires. Im trying to repair w/o opening my mac.

Mar 5, 2009 6:07 AM in response to SG1776

That panel is called the I/O Panel. It contains the audio in and out jacks at the top. Nearby is a screw which holds (depending on options) either a blank cover or the modem jack and its small metal enclosure.

The two screws further down, adjacent to the grille and Ethernet, FireWire, and USB jacks hold the black rubber processor fan housing against the inside of the grille.

The metal I/O panel itself is permanently attached to the much larger metal plate under the motherboard with rivets. The I/O panel is not removable without drilling out the rivets, which would require removing the motherboard.

The last model in this series whose I/O panel was removable was the AGP Graphics G4. To remove that panel, first you remove the motherboard. Then tilt the panel inward and it could be removed.

Mar 5, 2009 6:55 AM in response to SG1776

Typically, a mini-jack that doesn't grip the plug tightly has a worn shunt. The shunt is a small piece of metal that opens the circuit feeding the internal speaker when a plug is inserted, thereby silencing it. The speaker jack is mounted on a small bracket that's soldered to the motherboard, and has a metal enclosure over it to prevent dust from collecting around it. Any attempt to visually inspect/access/bend the shunt would require removal of the motherboard from the computer and then careful removal of the metal cover over the jack. In spite of the hassle involved, this is the best way to get at the jack to use a mini-screwdriver to lift/bend the shunt. You'd want to bend the shunt, so that it provides more resistance to an inserted plug, enabling the tip of the plug to snap-lock in place tightly. Be advised that the metal used for the shunt is very thin and can break off, if manipulated too much. If you break it off, you'll have no sound to the internal speaker and have no audio output to headphones/speakers when connected to the jack. If this were to happen, the only solution would be a replacement of the entire jack.

You could try a non-surgical solution to the loose audio plug. I'd recommend using a mini-stereo extension cable for this, as opposed to the actual cable from your headphones/speakers. First, secure the cable by looping it up and around the handle on the rear of the computer case to take the stress off of the port. Apply a small amount of silicone adhesive around the base of the plug, where it seats against the I/O plate. After it fully cures, you can feed the other end of the cable back through the handle and out of sight. All connections would be made to the end of the extension cable, eliminating further wear & tear on the audio jack itself.

Mar 6, 2009 2:31 PM in response to Jeff

I'd recommend using a mini-stereo extension cable for this, as opposed to the actual cable from your headphones/speakers. First, secure the cable by looping it up and around the handle on the rear of the computer case to take the stress off of the port. Apply a small amount of silicone adhesive around the base of the plug, where it seats against the I/O plate. After it fully cures, you can feed the other end of the cable back through the handle and out of sight. All connections would be made to the end of the extension cable, eliminating further wear & tear on the audio jack itself.


This may be a good alternative to rooting around inside and risking a further problem. But would the mini-plug (which I currently use to physically stepdown the plug at the end of the cable from my audio system) be just as good to glue to the I/O plate? I relieve stress on the cable by hanging it 6" away into a tight space behind a bent nail stuck into the wood under my computer table. Or is there something about that extra piece, my mini-plug, that is less secure than a one-piece miniplug/cable? One important advantage to gluing my mini-plug is that it is already in position. Finding the proper, electronically tight position was and would be dangerous because electrical contact would be gained and lost and gained as I sought the correct position, with the bad effect of surges to microprocessors. The only way to know the correct position is to hear sound. My screen froze twice.

Why silicone glue, rather than generic glue?

Mar 9, 2009 4:25 AM in response to SG1776

Different posters have different answers. Have you removed it?

Yes, I've removed everything before.
Removing the plastic from the rear of the case door is fine, but it doesn't help at getting to the jack.

Also, if you are talking about the three screws in the white area of the I/O port panel, those do different jobs. One holds the telephone jack on, and the other two hold the processor fan.

The jack isn't connected to the rear panel, rather, it is just pushed up to the I/O panel.
The jack is connected to the logic board immediately behind the I/O panel.

If you open the tower door, and look at the corner of the logic board where the audio jacks are, you will see a little tin box containing the jack. Its not screwed on, it's soldered.
To attempt repair of the jack, I would remove the heatsink and processor, remove the logic board and then desolder the jack from the logic board.

This thread has been closed by the system or the community team. You may vote for any posts you find helpful, or search the Community for additional answers.

Jack Panel Safely Remove?

Welcome to Apple Support Community
A forum where Apple customers help each other with their products. Get started with your Apple Account.