The Apple manuals & docs on apple.com just tells you to seek out a service engineer.
The relevant post is…
Use the contact form if you need anything clarifying.
After some pondering upon the issue, I now completely concur with Drew Reece on this. Even if you are successfully using the right power supply ( say, a 65W model for the 21" ACD A1181) whilst using the Jacobeon trick- or cutting the sense line for that matter- you still might have a small fire hazard on your hands.
Let me explain/ rephrase the explanation: in the possible event that the normal sense line circuit is indeed preventing ageing CCFLs ( or faulty/dying regulators on the mainboard for that matter) to overload originally correctly specified power supplies, the Jacobeon trick will indeed allow those PSUs to effectively be overloaded. Meaning they will run a temperature = fire hazard.
The solution is indeed threefold:
1. Replace the dubious regulator on the main board. As explained before in this thread.
2. Remain to use the Jacobeon trick, or -better still, cut the sense line. As explained before in this thread.
3. In stead of the Apple adaptor - even if it was correctly specced for your ACD model out-of-the-box- use a hugely overspecced third party PSU. Say a 250W model for the 30", a 200W model for the 23" and a 150W model for the 20" ( for this, you may still use the original 150W model originally intended for the 30").
This will compensate for any possible higher current drawn by ageing CCFLs, and prevent the probably originally underspecced regulator from blowing anyhow.
I hope this fairly summarises the case.
Keep m running, boys and girls!
About one year ago I had this issue with my ACD23. Black screen with blinking morse code. I found this thread and did the paper trick with the middle pin. It worked. But yesterday, the screen was black again, this time without blinking led. The monitor's led in the lower right of the frame doesn't turn on.
I'm not sure what to do now. Buying a new brick (from apple or the cheap replacement pointed above) would work in this case? Should I test something in the brick or inside the monitor first?
I wanted to add my case here, and see if someone experienced the same and found a solution.
Found a solution...
Same problem. Apple cinema display, 90 watt power brick, blinking "short long short".
Tested several other 90w bricks, same results.
Watch the solution here:
BUT, just use electrical tape to cover the center pins on the eliptical plug that goes into the power brick.
(just tested it again to make sure I wasn't dreaming. Works fine.)
This solved the problem for me, hopefully this will save you a LOT of money.
+1, Drew! No more comments, everything A 1181 has been written about extensively.! Let people read extensively instead of just superficially.
Gettting old maybe? Gawd ( I'm not from Texas, but this does not sound so religious:-)), I sound like the grandfather whom I've never had...
My regards, Drew!
And BTW: this has all been for good sport as wel as principle; I believe the time has now come to look for newer horizons...
My own A 1181 is still dead, but I need to turn a page.
This problem occured an hour ago, and I saw myself trying to find a new monitor. Thanks to you guys I have now solved the very same problem, but I used the kind of self adhering book plastic, that I cut into a smal stripe (around 2 mm wide) and pried down the connector with a toothpick. I never believed something could be that easy. Thanks a million again for this savvy trick!
After using successfullly using the tips in this thread a few times my ACD finally crapped out. This time around instead of buying a new shiny 27 inch thunderbolt display ($999), I decided to try another brand for the monitor. Don't worry Apple.....you've already sucked me in for 2 laptops, 1 Ipad, 3 itouches and 4 iphones.....it almost makes me sick and I'm accounting for the amount of money I've spent over the last few years for our family.
This time around I'm going with a Dell monitor. For almost half the price, I've got a solid monitor that meets my needs. Yes, I miss the sleek look for an Apple display, but I just didn't want to risk the headaches again!
I'm disillusioned with Apple as well. I always paid the premium price because I expected quality and durability. However If the products don't break they're still made semi-obsolete in a few years because they aren't included in the software upgrades. Not only is this a back-door gouging of the customer, it also contribute to a massive amount of tech waste. The only thing green about apple it seems is their bank accounts.
Apple don't endorse this 'hack'. If you were to speak to an Apple genius at a store I doubt that they would recommend this course of action. They will repair it if you still have Applecare cover for it (or you can pay).
I and others have written many lines in this thread on why this is probably a bad idea, go back & read them if you care, otherwise be aware that you have just circumvented a safety feature & added potential for the remaining pins to short out or be overloaded (the strip of plastic or paper rarely stays where you want it).
Assuming you are seeing the 'short-long-short' error code the fix may be as simple as testing & replacing a $4 component. Or you can just cut a wire if you insist on using this 'hack'.
Good luck, treat it like your grannies 1940's toaster - it works OK but may burst into flames when your back is turned.
Replacing a $4 component? Really? Why was I quoted $475 by the "genius" at my Apple Store? Of course Apple would not recommend this "hack". When a customer does this, Apple loses out on $475 for replacing a $4 part. My Cinema Display is over 6 years old. If I can get a few more months out of it, then that's more than Apple could promise. I have seen no evidence to suggest it will "burst into flames". I do believe, however, that changing to a power supply with over 50% more juice is certainly a bad idea. I still love Apple, by the way, and will continue to buy their products faithfully (except maybe a new monitor).