AJ wrote:
My understanding, at least in part, of the color calibration was to get the output to look like the screen
Well, that's part of it for sure, but in isolation that isn't really the right way to look at it. This is a brief but very clever explanation of the idea behind color management:
http://www.earthboundlight.com/phototips/color-management-setting-clocks.html?se arch=color+management&bool=phrase
Getting the output to look like the screen should only ever come after your monitor is properly calibrated.
Let's say you are editing an image in Photoshop. The color of your sky looks a bit off so you tweak it to look a nice rich blue. If your monitor is off, you could actually be turning the sky purple, even though it looks blue on your monitor. Now when you go to print the image, the sky comes out purple instead of blue. It may lseem like you are having printer issues, but trying to match the printer to the screen at this stage would be trying to make two wrongs into a right.
A few hundred dollars will get reasonable introductory-level monitor calibration hardware/software package. Once the monitor is calibrated, then you can look into creating a profile for your specific printer/ink/paper combination. Unfortunately, equipment and software for doing that is usually much more expensive, and the cheap printer calibration tools that are sometimes bundled with monitor calibrators, in my experience, make pretty poor printer profiles and should be avoided.
I found the Epson 2200 and the collection of profiles for the various ink/paper combinations I got from their website to be very good. If you calibrate your monitor you will likely see prints that are very close to what you see on screen (assuming of course that you are using a proper color-managed workflow and not running Snow Leopard). In my case, to obtain a perfect print with my 2200, a factory profile and my calibrated monitor requires just a very minor curve adjustment to lighten the image slightly before printing. It was so close after just monitor profiling that I didn't bother investing in printer profiling equipment.
AJ wrote:
I can't claim to be a pro, so I'll just say I've always left gamma at 1.8.
The problem you run into is that vast majority of hardware and software on the planet assumes a gamma of 2.2... Windoze, the web world, your neighborhood 1 hour photo lab etc. If your computer and your images are isolated from the rest of the world it wouldn't matter much, but when printing or sharing, being on the same page as everyone else makes for fewer headaches. And 2.2 is actually much closer to the native gamma of computer monitors and TVs too.
Apple's use of 1.8 dates back to 1984, QuickDraw and the LaserWriter... long before color management came along. It never made sense to me that Apple continued to use 1.8 by default for so long. If you're interested, here is a good article on gamma 1.8 vs. 2.2 and the Apple history of it:
http://www.earthboundlight.com/phototips/gamma-18-or-22.html