Previous 1 8 9 10 11 12 Next 213 Replies Latest reply: Jan 28, 2016 10:08 AM by jfeder Go to original post Branched to a new discussion.
  • mpayne Level 1 (0 points)

    You might also try my older solution, don't focus on the polar ends, just take something like a post-it note, maybe cut in half and fold over itself as many times as necessary to create enough pad so that there's no movement. The paper is placed under the batteries. You can leave the folder paper long enough to overlap as a tab (sticking out from the side)so that you can adjust it to perfection. Just make sure that you can still close the door, you want the paper thick enough for security, not too thick to prevent closure.


    Yes it became a science at one point

  • Dylanophile Level 1 (0 points)

    Thanks for that I will try anything ... unless Apple replace it foc !


    The bit I have difficulty in coming to terms with why the customers haven't contacted Apple in their droves over this issue, or have they and they are playing dumb?

  • Mactoyz Level 1 (10 points)

    I hate to step on the battery solution, but I was plagued by this problem on two Macs. I tried everything before contacting Apple. Their solution was to reset the PRAM. I did that last October. Problem solved on both Macs. Can't be a coincidence. I am using the same Rayovac Alkalines as always.

  • Dylanophile Level 1 (0 points)

    I trashed the Bluetooth prefs and reset the PRAM.


    How do you do this ?


    I would have replied earlier but I lost connection twice, and got it back by shaking the mouse......I still think battery connections at fault, but would love to try your solution if I understood it.


    Shaking the mouse again ....




  • craigfrombrownshill Level 1 (0 points)

    It works !

  • Mactoyz Level 1 (10 points)

    I have been cruising along pretty smoothly with my BlueTooth mouse since last year when I reset the PRAM. I have had couple of stutters over the last two days and today my mouse scrolling stopped working. I checked the prefs and it was not showing those options for my mouse, so I just decided to do a PRAM reset again on my iMac (OS 10.8.3).


    Power the iMac down.

    Hit the power button and press the COMMAND , OPTION, P, and R keys at the same time. Wait until the computer chimes for the second time and release. Everything started working perfectly again.


    I think the battery issue is off base for many users while resetting the PRAM seems to be the correct solution. I have regular Rayovac Alkaline batteries in my mouse and the cover is in place.

  • Dexter Adams Level 1 (0 points)

    Like a charm.

  • Nick Radonic Level 1 (0 points)

    I've tried resetting the PRAM a couple of times, but it hasn't worked. And when I see the power light, on the underside of the mouse, flicker as I tilt the mouse, I suspect the electrical connection of the batteries. When they make good contact, I don't see the flicker. I may be wrong....but nothing except adjusting the mechanics of the batteries has helped my case. At this point I've sort of learned to live with it.

  • Dylanophile Level 1 (0 points)

    Thought I'd reported this already but my comment has mysteriously disappeared>


    Apple helpdesk got me to re-set the PRAM but I continued to get disconnection as per the above description.

    They have now sent me a replacement mouse (even though I was a few days out of warranty). So, great service. No more bts of paper, measuring batteries, screaming fits etc.

  • Omek Level 1 (0 points)

    Thank you sooooo much! I was going mad trying to figure out why my magic mouse and Apple keyboard were constantly disconnecting. My mouse was all jerky too. PRAM reset did the job for me.


    I noticed everything started going wacky when I used a bluetooth headset while chatting for awhile. After I disconnected, I also need to change the batteries in my magic mouse, because they were completely depleted. Not sure if that helps anyone else but just thought I'd explain what led up to mine having problems.


    Thanks again!

  • David Barrett1 Level 1 (15 points)

    I've been using Duracell batteries in Magic Mouses (?) without any problems – I'm on my third, but it's dropping them on concrete as I move around my school that kills them; now carry them in a safe pocket – and until recently haven't had any problem with drop-out whatsoever.


    For me, the first solution I tried, which was cleaning the contacts inside the mouse with a cotton-tip, and also giving the ends of the batteries a bit of a clean (they still have plenty of juice so I didn't want to toss them), worked like a charm. No problem since, in more than two days.


    It seems, though, that there may be a few issues, and that this can't be put down to one in specific, given the different solutions that have worked for different people.


    Perhaps start with something as simple as cleaning the contacts, then work from there to other solutions like foil "pads", changing brand of battery, re-setting PRAM, etc.

  • cchonig Level 1 (0 points)

    Tried all the paper tricks, to no avail.

    Now changed the Varta batteries for Duracells and suddenly the mouse works. Beats me...

  • Lourufmom Level 1 (10 points)

    I'm having this problem too.  It began about 3 months after first use of the mouse which came with a new iMac.  I have read most, although not all, of the posts on this subject.  A number of posters cite problems after lifting and putting down the mouse or some other physical movement.  My best guess is that it has to do with the vague and flimsy latch on the battery cover of the mouse.  I use the mouse a lot daily and have run through a lot of disposible batteries, which means a lot of sliding and clicking of the latch.  The first time I had to change the batteries, it was not at all clear to me that I had effectively relocked the latch.  At least twice, I have found that the latch had slid out of the locked position.  The little runners on the edge of the cover should provide enough space between the latch and the mousepad or the surface you're using...but maybe not. If the latch is not completely and securely locked, it would be possible for the latch to hang down low enough for it to be moved into the unlocked position in the course of use. When that happens the batteries can move in and out of the battery contacts.  Has anyone else had this impression?   The battery cover and latch seem sort of cheap and poorly designed to me.

  • Mike Trotman Level 1 (85 points)

    This worked for me! 


      Model Name:          iMac

      Model Identifier:          iMac13,2

      Processor Name:          Intel Core i7

      Processor Speed:          3.4 GHz

  • Nick Radonic Level 1 (0 points)

    Follow your reasoning to the next step - the battery case should not be holding the batteries in place, and it should especially not be holding them in electrical contact. It should be a dust cover, and the ends of the holder should hold the batteries in place through thick and thin - or shake and drop.


    Its a bad design. Any chance cchonig could post images of the top of a Duracell and the top of a Varta - side by side even. I'd like to see if one has a more clean tip presentation.

Previous 1 8 9 10 11 12 Next