I removed the back plate and the problems went away.
The problems were slow, sticky magic mouse tracking and a loss of bluetooth connection every 5 minutes or so in all applications.
OS 10.7.5 Mac Pro Nehalem 8GB
Haven't had a single problem since removing the back plate (3 days).
The other unsuccessful things I had tried were paper inside the back plate to tighten the battery fit, and deleting the bluetooth devices and re-pairing. I did not try resetting things like PRAM or SMC or a using a different magic mouse.
My experience, having explored this issue with 4 Magic Mice and four macs (First intel Mac Pro (1,1), latest Mac Pro (6,1), First MacBook Pro with Retina, 15" (10,1) and older MacBook Pro (4,1)), is as follows:
- I never had a problem until I changed the batteries in the mouse from the ones Apple supplied
- While I had some disconnections on all systems, they were much more common using any of the mice with the older Macs, particularly the old Mac Pro)
- I could improve the situation by wrapping the batteries in paper or adding foil at the contacts, or both, but that didn't completely solve the problem
- All four of my mice seemed to behave in very similar ways
- The problem only occurs with some brands of batteries.
When I started noting what batteries I was using, I found that the problem only arose using particular brands of battery, primarily Duracell. If I stick to either Apple Rechargables or ordinary Energizer AA batteries, I never get a disconnection.
I think the fundamental problem is that some batteries are smaller than Apple designed for, and those ones lead to intermediate disconnections. But their bluetooth implementations shipped in Macs have improved over time and the newer ones are less sensitive to very short bluetooth interruptions and don't lead to a loss of connection.
The bottom line is, whatever the various underlying problems are, finding the right kind of battery and sticking to it has eliminated the problem completely for every mouse I've tried with in combination with every Mac I've paired them with.
njr0 your message suggests an aspect I hadn't considered before - materials incompatibility. Some metals like tin, develop an insulating oxide layer that stops the current flow across connections. To get around this you can push the two contact materials together harder, or move the pieces to break the oxide layer.
I wonder if these two issues are what we are seeing. Making the batteries move to re-establish the connection suggests that the contact forces are weak because of a weak spring force, and that the oxide needs to be cleared by moving the battery tip across the spring power terminal.
Different battery brands would have different metalurgy, suggesting different degrees of compatibility at the battery tip.
@coreyem: Thanks for this post. This approach fixed my mouse as well. It must be a design issue that the positive end is too deep, and thus normal battery cannot make solid connections all the time. It has been so frustrating that I have to smash it every a few minutes since I started to use this mouse. With this "battery fix" trick, everything is so perfect now.
Hey Guys i had the same issue with my Mouse and Keyboard until i downloaded Memory Clean app. I have noticed as soon as i was low on memory for some reason bluetooth just keeps loosing connection. Its been a week no problems so far.
Also make sure that it automatically cleans your memory.
Hope that helps
I can't believe this thread goes on for over three years. Some of the suggested fixes are also really impressive. WiFi interference can be an issue with Bluetooth. I've only ever seen this in really crowded environments (e.g. conference or trade show) with WiFis going on by the hundreds. The symptom of that is consistently no Bluetooth connection at all. So that can't really be the cause of that many problems as described on this thread.
For me, the design of the battery compartment was the sole issue. Anything that can be caused or remedied by rattling stuff almost certainly is a mechanical issue, and can not be fixed by installing software. I did two things:
- I put little pads made from repeatedly folded aluminium foil into the two holes for the battery prongs. Reason being that the prongs on the rechargeables I was using were just that little bit too short. Without these pads, the batteries would not make any contact at all.
- As the prongs now juuust about make contact, but moving the mouse around, or tapping it onto the desk would still cause a movement of the batteries and interrupt the contact. So I folded a little piece of paper, and put it between the battery cover and the batteries to increase the pressure and keep them in place.
With these two measures, I get a stable connection.
Been having these disconnect issues for some time - since I started using Eveready brand, in fact. Switched to Energizer Max, basically +ve terminal is flat vs pointed in the Eveready - much more solid connection since. What a funny quirk. They didn't sell Apple Rechargeable batteries in the premium reseller I went to, otherwise would try that.