I disagree Pancho. The only one of the items that I think is valid is #8 and it is claimed to "be uncommon". As far as I know it the ONLY problem and all the others are symptomatic of the battery length problem. I don't even remember what #4 is, but I'll bet if you think #4 fixed your situation it will raise its ugly head again until you find different batteries or add some contact length. Good luck.
CLEAN YOUR TERMINALS?
This is a general reply to all who, like me, have been having trouble with the Magic Mouse. Now I won't suggest this fix will help for everyone but it worked for me. My mouse kept dropping out and my blood pressure was rising steadily. I read the stuff here on batteries, then I check my contacts on the actual mouse. They were actually quite dirty; I work in a smarted-up garden shed, and I guess it's a little damp here (which undoubtedly will kill my hardware at some point, I know, but ...).
Anyway, I scraped off any visible gunk/rust/deposit with the tip of an exacto knife, then polished with a bit of cloth wrapped around a biro tip, and presto – the mouse has been working perfectly ever since.
I have no doubt there are other problems popping up with peoples' mice, but do try this fix if your terminals look anything but shiny-clean.
Battery size is exactly the problem. Ever since switching brands of battery I started having problems with disconnects whenever the mouse was slightly banged on the wooden desk.
After suffering for a couple of months... I just now taped a piece of paper (card stock) to the inside of the battery cover, so that there's SLIGHTLY less space for the batteries to move.
Works fine now.
This helped me solve the problem! I was already thinking of buying a new magic mouse until I read this.
I replaced the old batteries with Eveready's and the problem started immediately (no offense to the company intended). I compared the battery length to the old one that I used and they are slightly shorter. Gone on ahead and replaced it with another brand and viola! the problem went away.
For other users having the same problem, before taking other measures, check your new battery length. Might save you a lot of time and stress.
Today I took my magic mouse 2012 to the Apple store because I kept losing connection also. The genius performed a dignostic on it and found that it didn't "perform well". So he replaced it. Consider this if you're having problems. He did confirm the battery length issue during conversation. Make sure you have your receipt or an emaill copy of it.
18 months ago I had the disconnection problem with both rechargeble and alkaline batteries.
I managed to fix the alkaline battery problem with the following (from a poster on this site) -
1) Open Bluetooth Preferences
2) In the left hand window, select 'Apple Wireless Mouse'
3) Beneath the left hand window is a small gear wheel icon. With Apple Wireless mouse still selected, click on this and select 'Add to favourites".
This cured the problem for me as far as alkaline (non-rechargable) batteries are concerned but I discovered that I still needed a small amount of "BlueTak" on the battery compartment lid, a tiny amount over each battery, to stop them coming loose.
Rechargeable batteries were something else!!
At first I gave up trying to get these to work. With these my Magic Mouse simply didn't light up at all. I assumed that as they were 1.2v not 1.5v that this was the problem. Until I noticed that Apple Store was advising people that they would work.
I queried this elsewhere on this site and discovered that it was possible that they will work but for a small difference in the design of the cans at the + end. Some makes of battery have bigger 'shoulders' than others. The Magic Mouse has a thick black plastic 'bulkhead' at the + end of the battery compartment. Batteries that have the 'shrugged' shoulder (for want of a better description) can't stick their heads quite far enough through the said bulkhead to reach the contact. Or, if they can, just barely.
So I looked hard when I bought new rechargables. I chose those that I could see did not have that 'shrugged shoulder' (no mean feat when you consider one needs to remove the packaging to see clearly enough to make a decision about the shoulders of the cans).
I have found Duracell Rechargable "Stay Charged" 1.2v 2000 mAh perfect for the job. I have not experienced any further disconnection problems whatsover for the past 18 months other than when the batteries need recharging. The Duracells have been lasting about 21 days before needing to be recharged, by the way.
So, for me, the solution was -
- Set the Magic Mouse as a 'Favourite' in the Bluetooth Prefs Panel
- Put 'Bluetak' on the battery compartment lid (only a tiny amount is required) to hold the batteries steady and (with 'BlueTak' at least) absorb shocks.
- Buy batteries that can stick their heads through the plastic bulkhead far enough to make firm enough contact
Message was edited by: El Deanio
Folks, you all need to get past this "mouse losing connection due to batteries/terminal length" talk. That's not the problem at all. I too had connection and response issues when I first purchased my Magic Mouse for my Dual 2Ghz G5 tower. I went through the endless forums full of crazy opinions and solutions which in the end, never pan out or are inconsistant. So, I'm posting here today because I was able to find out why I was having the issues with my MM and not with my Aluminum Wireless Keyboard. The problem was/is that the Magic Mouse transmits a much weaker signal than the keyboard does, probably due to size, material or maybe even both. The second issue is that the CPU(the G5 Aluminum tower, in my case) has a weak built in antenna. The G5 has an internal Bluetooth card and a small removable antenna which mounts on the rear of the tower.
My solution was simply to purchase a 3Dbi Omni Directional antenna which connects to the G5's Bluetooth antenna port via the same style connector Apple's Bluetooth antenna has. The end results were night and day difference. It wasn't even just a small difference. My MM now responds like a "wired" mouse. No glitches, no disconnects, nothing but complete, reliable performance.
As for the battery/terminal issue everyone goes on and on about(save your aluminum foil, cardboard, toothpicks, etc...), I too checked this out early on in my quest for an answer/solution and this just is not the issue causing lost connections. I could play hacky sack with my Magic Mouse and feel assured that the mouse would perform without a hitch.
I also want to add that the Aluminum case(G5) might also have an impact on signal strength to some degree but the add on antenna totally took care of that. I realize current Mac Pro's don't have external BT antennas so there may not be a quick and easy fix for you(maybe a custom fix ala someone familiar with getting access to the BT internals). I assume if your a iMac user, your so close to the machine with your MM that signal strength wouldn't be an issue either. Just a guess.
That's it folks.
Maybe for you, but I think that for a lot of people in this thread (specifically, people who say that sharp IMPACT, like picking up their mouse and putting it down, make it temporarily loose connection), the issue is simply due to poor contact.
I didn't buy new batteries or buy anything special... and I do think a lot of people have gone through far more effort to fix the problem than they need.
All that I did was cut out a small piece of heavy stock paper (just use some junk you received in the mail that you don't want) so that it was the size of the back of the battery cover, and tape it there. THAT'S IT.
Now the batteries don't have that extra millimeter or two to fall down when there's an impact, because the paper's in the way.
Problem solved (for me).
This may have been your problem Armando, but it certainly wasn't our problem!
We have 5 iMacs all with MM. Everyone of them started to intermittently disconnect when the batteries were changed. As documented previously, after discovering the new batteries were shorter, we replaced them with loger batteries and the problem has not returned again on any of the MMs.
As a suggestion to those still having trouble finding the longer batteries: Purchase the apple rechargables.
You may want to reconsider how much you should get past the notion there's a singular problem with only your solution.
I've posted an update here in this thread some months ago - and I can add to it again now after however many months it's been: My solution was needing to add pressure on the batteries with a bit of cardboard wedged under the cover plate. It solved 100% of my connection-loss problems for months (I believe it may even be over a year now). 100% - no exceptions. Checking this thread can show my posting history with complete consistency.
Just before I posted this reply to you I tested it by removing that cardboard. Within seconds I lost my connection 3 times in under 60 seconds.
Replacing the cardboard *is* a solution for *some* people.
It's not exactly the hardest thing to conceive - that Apple may have multiple problems with multiple configurations which is displayed in exactly the variety of user's setups centered around either 1) Signal interference or 2) Physical connectivity.
Look back over the thread - these two situations are described consistently beyond most any others. The solutions center nicely around these two situations as well.
For any of you out there that have some basic soldering skills you can permanently fix the loose battery issue. No more paper or wedging things against the compartment door.
What you do is melt blobs of solder onto the recessed positive ends. You might melt the plastic a little if your soldering iron is too hot, but it won't ruin the mouse if that happens.
Here's a picture of the mod to mine.
Apply enough solder so that the top of it is about level to the plastic. Let it cool and then pop your batteries in. You should be able to rattle, shake, drop, and abuse your mouse now without it losing power. Also you no longer have to get different batteries to make your mouse stay on.
My mouse works like a charm now, no more connection drops with this mod. Only do this if you don't care about voiding your warranty.