Change default font in Safari

This is a problem that people have posted about for years. How do you change the default font in Safari? For some bizarre reason, Apple doesn't let you in Safari's preferences.

This article from June 2015 gave a thorough explanation of how to do it, which was to go in and modify or replace the Safari style sheet by editing the CSS code by hand!

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/7100028

It was crazy to be forced to use such an arcane and difficult method for something as simple as changing the default font, which every browser since the web was invented has always let you do -- EXCEPT Safari.

The article described using a Safari extension called Stylish to make editing the style sheet easier. But now in April 2020, Stylish can no longer be found in the App Store.

So is editing the style sheet really STILL the only way to change the default font in Safari? Or is there some way in Safari preferences that I have missed?