airpods pro microphone cuts in and out

When using my airpods pro both with MacBook Pro (13" 2020, two thunderbolt ports, i5) (Ventura) and with iphone 13 pro, the microphone is often just fine but frequently will cut out - not completely, but it makes me sound extremely muffled. This is extremely reproducible, if I record a voice memo on the phone, the first half second or so is normal, then it cuts out and I can barely hear anything, then after about 3-5 seconds the audio comes back. Sometimes, after the microphone resumes working normally, it will cut out again, though not every time.

This is definitely in the microphone, not the speakers (the recordings sound the same whether I listen to them through the airpods or through built-in speakers), and it only happens with the airpods as the microphone (if I record using the iphone microphone, or with my macbook microphone, this never happens).

I have reset the airpods with no change in behavior.

I have reproduced this using the voice memo app on the iphone, and using sites such as https://mictests.com/