Found it. I had to click the Switch to Classic button.

Then you can get to the other settings. In the right column, you'll then see something like this:

You can simply choose Best from the Quality drop down menu. Or you can choose Custom, and then this palette will appear.

DO NOT change the video format. MPEG-2 is the only compression version set-top players expect for a video DVD. Nothing else will work.
There are two bitrate sliders. Those were intended to deal with old players from, oh, over a decade or more ago. You set the maximum to where you want it for the best quality. The average slider is for old players that can't decode a high bitrate fast enough to keep up. They then use the lower quality and lower bitrate files.