30-inch Cinema Display flashing

It's an old thread but I have the problem and I have success in stopping it for long period of time. Read on.

The situation is ELECTRICAL in nature and has a bit of voodoo in the silliness of the solutions, but who cares, I've stopped the problem. Once I stopped it for over 1 year before having to do it again. Coming up with these solutions took 2 days of experimentation between 3 workstations all with silver MacPros 2009/2010, and the 2 Apple Cinema Displays, 1 is 30 inch DVI, the other is the smaller one, all hook ups identical, and switching them off back and forth for testing.

firstly - take the laptop conversations all off the table and off this thread, they cannot be related.

- unplug every single thing from every single port and power source and start fresh. If you count all plugins to brick etc, there are about 6.

- you MUST MUST change the way power is drawn from your wall or home outlet. This means a direct plugin to the wall - NO USE OF POWER STRIPS or surge protectors if you can help it. (you either want a true solution or you don't).

- Go buy a battery backup if you absolutely must release multiple outlets around the situation. You should plugin your MACPRO to the Battery backup, and the MONITOR also to backup or at least the surge protection choices (I mean ON THE BATTERY BACKUP not any strips! Invest in a real one brand APS recommended).

- NO splitters, no sharing of power source with peripheral devices, no multi outlet strips

- experiment with switching the ports to sources until you find a combo that works

- find colored tape and mark all the hookups to match so next time you recreate the solution that worked.

- Don't use the side power button at all. It's related somehow. Turning it off in system preferences has no effect. Mine is on, I just try never to bump into it.

- Yes, people who mention that the brightness icon goes crazy during these events is absolutely true.

- Yes, Apple has never cared about this even with Apple Care, so don't waste your time lugging everything to an appointment. They won't replace.

- Keep cables still, keep pets away from them, keep them NEVER MOVING if you can help it. My cat thinks the light on a surge protector is a fun button to push so it's taped in place (although I do NOT USE any of those strips for this monitor or computer pairing)

My opinion is that even the slightest variation or bump in the way electricity flows to the monitor, or through the mac causes the issue. After 1 full year of no issues, I brought my workstation gently to a trade show, had no problems, got back and forgot what was plugged in where, had no problems for 4 days, then I started using the side power switch because ***the sleep feature in the drop down menu takes nearly 2 minutes to actually "go to sleep" otherwise. The monitor went absolutely insane on one accidental use of the power button and I went through all the troubleshooting steps above multiple times until I found a situation that stabilized everything.

Also - I rarely can turn the workstation off because another issue with this monitor is after being off fore more than 24 hours, the first startup will display what appears to be a really insane screen of rainbow lines and static that move. It's scary, it looks like your monitor has shorted out, and the only way out is to do the dreaded, ill advised, pull the plug out of the wall and restart. Sometimes this method takes 3 restarts, and all peripherals must be pulled out of all ports then put back in.

The monitor is gorgeous, and gets attention wherever I go, but these problems have existed for 5 years. I say a prayer every time I restart that the dreaded "day of doom" doesn't come.

I was here today because everything almost didn't work and while I was typing, it mysteriously stopped.

Good luck to all. I hope something here helps. Like I said, I got a year out of it once.

I have the same issue and it just started a few weeks ago. I bought my 30" Cinema Display in mid 2009 and this is the first time this has happened to me.

In-fact, I'll take it one step further, mine brings up the "brightness" icon in the bottom middle of the screen on and off as well as the screen flashing to look as though it's turning on and off.

While the brightness icon flashes, the brightness is automatically turning itself down, never up, always down, and it does it IMMEDIATELY when the brightness is above "0" until it reaches "0". Sometimes it doesn't even bring up the icon, it just automatically lowers the brightness all the way down in one fell swoop.

I have NEVER used the buttons on the side of the monitor for powering on/off or for brightness adjustments, so it can't be the overuse of buttons.

I went in to System Preferences / Displays / Options and I hashed "Display Power Button" to "Does Nothing" and Brightness Buttons to "Disable brightness buttons".

This morning the flashing did stop but I'm not sure if that was because I reset the SMC or because of the button preference changes, and it did stop the brightness icon from flashing and it turning it's own brightness down to the lowest, this I tried real-time and it absolutely corrected it.

This makes me believe there is a faulty connector or chip in the button panel on the side of the display which replicates button presses, since the only way to get this to stop was to disable the buttons from working.

Apple SHOULD address this, even for those who have had their displays for 1.5 years. I spent $2000 on mine and there is no way in heck this should have happened when those buttons weren't even used and my display is in absolute MINT condition, it's never even had someone tap it, this should not happen.

Apple, stop being like Microsoft and address your customers issues, those of us who have been with you for 20+ years are becoming upset at your elitist attitude toward your loyal customers.

WE SHOULDN'T HAVE TO DISABLE THE FUNCTIONALITY OF OUR PRODUCTS IN ORDER TO GET THEM TO WORK.

You're pulling the same garbage with the iPhone and it's battery issues, making customers almost completely disable the functionality of their devices in order to keep battery power for more than 6 hours.

Sad, Apple, truly sad what you've become!

Saturday, April 14th, 2012…. Problem might be solved now?

I have exactly the same problem, with a 30" display I bought in mid 2009 which is really driving me crazy. Randomly, at some time, it starts to switch off and on, 4-5 times a second, so the display is flashing. Most often, it happens in the first 5 minutes after I switched the display on in the morning, but sometimes it takes hours until this behavior occurs. The power on/off-switch on the side of the display also does not work during this, it´s just dead. I´m worried because if it switches on and off for hours, the display could seriously be damaged. The only way to solve the problem is to unplug the power connector that connects the display with the power supply, and plug it in again.... then it works again, until it happens the next time. In my case, it happens about 1-2 times every day. Also, when the displays is switched off (for example before going to bed), it sometimes switched itself on again over night, and starts switching on/off a thousand times until in the morning when I see it. Therefore, since several years now, I always pull the power cord every time I leave the computer for more than an hour. I also found two videos on Youtube where people showed the problem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srCMKHPXNgY , http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dh-e95A03cw

I have two of these 30” displays, the other one is about 3 years older, and it is working fine. I tried to narrow down the problem a bit, because I have two of them. I am quite sure that it is not a power supply problem, because if I swap the two power supplies from my two 30" displays, the problem remains at the same display (it´s identical 150 watt original Apple power supplies). It´s also not a problem with the computer or the graphics card, because over the years I had two different computers and two different graphics cards (one ATI, and NVidia), and it´s always been the same display that had the problem. I also never used any USB or Firewire devices with the displays, so these are also not the reason. So it must be the display itself, or the cable attached to it.

Well, so far, I could live with it ... I know that Apple charges horrendous costs if I send in a display, and my display is out of warranty, so I just plug the power cord every time it happens, and it´s okay because it is the cheapest solution. However, yesterday, the display switched on and off once again, but it looked differently... switching on and off was slower than usual (usually it is 4-5 times a second, now just one time a second). So I repeated the everyday-procedure and pulled the power connector again that connects the display with the power supply, and - for the first time - it was so FU**ING HOT that I burned my finger when I touched it! So, here´s definitely a danger that something can start burning! Therefore, I honestly recommend that everybody with such a problematic display like mine better not leave the power supply connected if unattended!

After this happened yesterday, I first decided to send in my 30" for repair because of fire danger, although I do not even know if they still have the spare parts for it now in 2012. However, before sending it in, I decided to disassemble the display to take a look inside, for example if I can see an exploded capacitor or similar that might be the reason for the problem and that can be fixed by a specialist. I only found one website that shows how to open the Apple Cinema display, here is the link: http://www.ignition-project.com/articles/2008/01/31/the-apple-cinema-display-sag a-part-2-take-apart-guide . However, I do not really recommend that you open it: on the inside, the 30” display is completely full of electronics (at least my one, it´s much more electronics than can be seen on the images on the website where only a third of the chassis is filled with electronics, I assume there are different versions of the 30” display - mine is completely crammed with electronics, and also the screws to open the chassis are at different locations).

I further tried to narrow down the cause of the problem. In another thread, I read something about erratic behavior of the power switch. Maybe the on/off-switch on the right side is the reason why display switches on and off? I found one related topic regarding a 30” cinema display where a user has a problem with the power switch ( https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2443325 ), and another one regarding a 20” cinema display ( https://discussions.apple.com/thread/558702 ). Therefore, I removed the bezels on the right side from both 30” displays in order to swap them, in order to see if the problem moves to the other display. The touch buttons are integrated into the bezel, and connected with a cable and a connector to the rest of the display. The bezels are removed by using a knife, sticking the knife into the small gap between the white bezel and the top of the chassis, and then removing the bezel from top to down (it is glued, you need some power, however, you really got to do this carefully because the white bezel is made of plastic and it can easily break – I broke mine in the middle part and I now have a crack there!). You can see it in the link given above how to remove the bezel. After that, I swapped the two bezels of the two displays, so I have the on/off switches of both displays swapped.

It has now worked for 8 hours without problems, but something else got me really confused now: on BOTH displays, the on/off switches to turn on/off the displays BOTH now do not work anymore (see beginning, also when the main problem that the display switches itself on and off occurs, the power button does not work). If I remove the bezels again and put the bezels an aside, they start working again, but if put the bezels in place again at the chassis, they don’t work. I made a video of it, you can see it here: http://youtu.be/Lh7Cceserf4 . However, if the bezels are in place and refuse to work, after disconnecting the power cords from both displays and reconnect them, both buttons work again normally. So, when I remove bezels and reattach them while the display is running, they refuse to work???Usually these buttons react at the slightest fingertip, so it seems that they calibrate or readjust in some way when the display is connected to power, and when I remove and reattach them this calibration is messed up. This might also be the cause why the display starts switching on and off, because something influences these buttons, or maybe the cable that connects the buttons with the rest are squeezed. So … time for a few days of testing if the problem occurs again… ->

Thursday, April 19th, 2012 – five days later:

I can say that in the meantime over five days, the displays made no problem at all. I finally got rid of the blinking display automatically switching on and off (which it did every day before), and of the power button that does not work. It might well be that the on/off switch with its very sensitive touch pad has been the reason for all the problems. In the video (at 00:22), you can see how I put the bezel on the left display, but I squeezed the cables which is not good, so make sure it fits into the hole without squeezing them. My advice for other people that have the same problem is to remove the right bezel, and keep it mounted in the upper half while having half an inch of distance on the lower part between buttons and chassis by putting something in between (that should avoid any problems, see video). Afterwards, try for a few days and see if the problem happens again. If the problem does not repeat, it has likely been the power buttons. However, in my case, I swapped the two bezels of the two displays and immediately put them in place again, and the problem also did not happen again. It might be that a very very minimal change in the position of the bezel or how the cables are running behind the buttons (electric field?) causes the effect.

Would be happy to have some feedback here, and if it worked for you as well or not.

I solved the same problem in my 30" display w/o openning the display with the use of a little aluminum foil and two strips of gaff tape. For my display, I found that the power button was eratic. At times I could touch it and the display would turn on, then off, then on, and so forth. In playing with the button I found moments when the dispay would stay on. In these different times, I would hold the bezel with my right thumb on the display front and my middle finger on the display bezel back. My right index finger operated the switch. At times, I found that while holding the display & switch as stated that the display would stay on. Moreover, I found that I could back my index finger off the button a very slight distance and the display would stay on! Moving my finger farther away from the switch would cause the display to resume its erratic behavior.

Solution: A "capacitance bandaid".

I took a small amount of aluminum foil and folded it into a strip 1/4" wide by 3-4" long. I attached one end to the front of the bezel with gaff tape and the other end to the back with the aluminum strip hovering about 1/4" out from the switch (not touching). I then played with the on/off button, finger under the tape, until the display stayed on with my index finger under the aluminum foil (thumb and middle finger in position as stated above). I backed my finger off the switch very slightly and in doing so, I brought the taped aluminum foil closer to the switch to substitute for my finger's presence. The display stayed on! It has remained on for 2 months now without blinking.

In short, the switch is capacitance sensitive, I believe. While my solution isn't eloquent, but it's cheap, easy to install, and it works.

I ran into the same issue as many have noted, 30" ACD flicks off and on after being connected for several minutes.

I had the ACD logic board replaced and for a short time (2-3 days) the flickering did not happen. But once again on the 3rd or 4th day, it started.

Using the System Preferences - Displays - Options - Does Nothing and Disable Brightnetss box check absolutely corrected the issue for me.

Excellent call, thanks.

After using my solution a number of times I've started to realize that the Apple adapter (used to get the full resolution from the monitor) seems like it's the faulty piece of equipment in the equation. Here's why:

- Using a standard mini display port to DVI connector the monitor works fine (results in lower res display)

- Using a HDMI to DVI adapter lets me use the monitor as a tv

BUT

- Using the mini display port (or thunderbolt) + USB to DVI + USB adapter often results in no image

My solution is just unplugging / plugging cables in until the monitor works again :/

I know this is a really old thread but I will post my experience here just incase someone like me buys a second hand monitor ... I recently bought a second hand cinema display for my MBA and it has the same problem. Really odd but for me the solution seems to be to make sure the power plug is connected directly to the wall socket and not into a multiway of any sort.I know it makes no sense but that fixes the problem for me (in the UK).

Some of you may find this hard to believe, but I think I found a simple solution to my 2008 (or 2003) 30" cenima display blinking problem.

periodically, if not constantly, my display would turn on and off. Apple will not repair it. They told me the problem was with the power inverter inside the display and no parts are available.

I have a different opinion. I may have mentioned that I could get the display to turn on if I held my finger on the (capacitance pad switch) power switch. Well, with some experimentation I noticed that my other fingers would have to make contact with the bezel for my finger on the button to be recognized. I then noticed that I could move my finger off the switch pad, while still touching the bezel with my other fingers and the unit would stay on, but only if my finger was within 3/8" out from the pad. If I pulled my hand away, however slowly, the display image would disappear. Well then, I decided to construct a capacitor of sorts. I took a strip of aluminum foil about 1/4" x 2.5" (folded this size to make stiff) and carefully taped the ends on both sides of the bezel such that the foil would hover ~1/4" above the pad. Guess what: it works (at least for now). It takes some experimentation just using your finger to cause the display to turn on while finger is in place. Then I install my $0.01 solution.

I don't understand this phenomena because I don't fully understand how capacitor pad switches? But it seems to work!

Thank you for the posts everyone. Tim... your idea came to my rescue!

I purchased my 30" ACD from Apple as a refurbished unit. Two weeks ago, the display wouldn't turn on. I took it to the Apple Store—and they sent it to the repair depot. The people at the repair depot couldn't replicate the problem (strangely), though I'm told that they ran several tests anyway. Today, I received my ACD back from Apple, plugged it in, and.... drumroll... it still wasn't working (after 2 full weeks of "service." Maddening.

After finding this thread (which I read while holding my finger on the ACD's power "button", so my display would stay on—I came up with my own solution. Before running downstairs to look for foil, I grabbed a light magnet (it's from a toy set of magnetic spheres and cylinders... maybe called Magnetix, or someting like that... I can't recall at the moment).

Anyway, it works! My display stays on as long as the magnet is stuck to the power "button." Cheers.

-Jason

Some of you may find this hard to believe, but I think I found a simple solution to my 2008 (or 2003) 30" cenima display blinking problem.

periodically, if not constantly, my display would turn on and off. Apple will not repair it. They told me the problem was with the power inverter inside the display and no parts are available.

I have a different opinion. I may have mentioned that I could get the display to turn on if I held my finger on the (capacitance pad switch) power switch. Well, with some experimentation I noticed that my other fingers would have to make contact with the bezel for my finger on the button to be recognized. I then noticed that I could move my finger off the switch pad, while still touching the bezel with my other fingers and the unit would stay on, but only if my finger was within 3/8" out from the pad. If I pulled my hand away, however slowly, the display image would disappear. Well then, I decided to construct a capacitor of sorts. I took a strip of aluminum foil about 1/4" x 2.5" (folded this size to make stiff) and carefully taped the ends on both sides of the bezel such that the foil would hover ~1/4" above the pad. Guess what: it works (at least for now). It takes some experimentation just using your finger to cause the display to turn on while finger is in place. Then I install my $0.01 solution.

I don't understand this phenomena because I don't fully understand how capacitor pad switches? But it seems to work!

I've had the same problem for a year. I would unplug it and wait, plug it back in and it would sometimes work.

Your suggestion:

"System Preferences>Displays>Options

and selected 'Does Nothing' for Display Power Button and Check the box for 'Disable Brightness Buttons'."

worked perfectly. THANKS!!!!

My problem didn't happen till I upgraded the RAM. I don't think that was the issue.

The issue may have been that I had to unplug everything to get to the tower to install the RAM.

I first noticed the problem when I woke up inthe middle of the night and noticed that the monitor was on. I was certain that I had turned it off, with the button. Turned it off again, went back to bed. Next morning it was back on. It did kept doing that, so I just set the Energy setting to switch it off after 5 minutes. That seemed to be the answer.

Then the on/off business started. I found that if I held my finger on the button, it would stay on, but then I had to use my left hand for everything. Sorry lefties, no disrepect.

I stumbled onto this discussion and could not for the llife of me figure what you were all talking about with the Options in the Display preferences. Someone had said somehitng about having a USB plugged into the monitor, which I did have before the RAM install. Trying it now, the ports didn't work.

DUH! I forget to plug the monitor's USB cord into the computer. Now the ports work AND the Options setting is now there. Surprise.

Right now the monitor is working and I can use my right hand. I'll give it time and report back.

SOLUTION FOLLOWED BY A SHORT STORY

STORY

I fly my monitor all over the nation and it was last working in Utah. After a quick trip to Seattle for the holidays, for which I only brought my 2010 15" mpb, I came back to Utah to find that my 30" was no longer responsive; No display, no power light, but my laptop still acted like a display was connected. After some online research I decided to spend $30 on ebay for a new control board. While waiting for the control board I kept tinkering. When the monitor is working normally I choose to use the MDP + USB connector in order to utilize the maximum resolution allowed (2560x1600). I tried using the connector that only supplies the MDP connection, which in turn only supports (1280x800?). At that point I learned that whenever the USB connection was made the monitor would shut up. However, this is when I came upon a solution that worked.

SOLUTION

While connected to only the stand-alone Apple DVI to MDP connector I would plug the USB of the 30" display to the MDP to Dual-Link adapter and then plug the dual link USB into my MBP. This usually stops the monitor from working but after a few tries the monitor stayed lit in 1280x800. At that point I left the USB connection and switched the monitor connection from the single connection DVI2MDP over to the dual link adapter and viola.

NOTE

I recently read that when you have to plug-unplug the monitor numerous times before it "magically works" is because you have capacitors going bad and that plugging/unplugging will eventually charge them to the point that a connection is made. According to this same notion, it pretty much means your monitor's capacitors are on their way to "meet the great capacitor in the sky".