my macbook pro screen is separating from the case, how to fix

Given this glue failure is there a DIY way to fix this since apple refuses. Perhaps with some specific adhesive or epoxy. Would like to hear from people who have tried.

I tried to fix it with a powerful bonding method. It consisted of using 3M Primer and a strong resin glue, used for model aircraft. It didn't work. The problem is in trying to bond Aluminium to the back of the screen. I think it might be impossible but don't quote me. From researching about this, some screw somewhere has given up and this has a knock on effect to the glued area. I believe this thing is not held together originally by glue alone. It's a replacement job unfortunately.

I have a late 2009 MBP that expressed this problem just before I went overseas in November. I asked a friend who regularly repairs Macs to take a look. I don't know if he was aware how commonplace the problem is, but he fixed it well enough with a squirt of glue, perhaps what Apple used when it first assembled the machine. That held fine through a lot of case openings and closngs, but now the glue he put on -- not too evenly, I'm sorry to say -- has dried and the cover and screen are separating once more. It's rather a shame that Apple invests so much in styling but so little in industrial design.

I'm going to spend some time tomorow working on the machine (power OFF) to see if there's a way to mechanically strengthen the assembly -- perhaps a screw or bracket (probably not) -- then carefully remove the old glue and replace it with new. If the machine makes it to summer, I'll buy a new MBP and use this one as a backup desktop machine. It's no longer fast enough anyway, with all the new requirements. (I want to go full SSID.) I'll let you know how the repairs go.

Fortunately, my mid-2010 MBA is a lot better made, I expect it to last until we no longer rely on chips but go quantum all the way.

PS Per one of the accounts above, I also was told that my MBP battery needed servicing (this was by an Apple reseller in Sweden), so much so that he refunded the cost of examinng the machine, plus told me to ditch it 'cause it was running hot. I'm glad I didn't follow the tech's advise: Coconut tells me I've still got 62% charging capacity on this machine which is plenty, I leave it plugged in anyway most of the time. It runs swell and except for the cover issue, is still pretty much the machine I purchased in 2009. I do now refer to a thermometer application to occasionally monitor the machine's: quite normal. I thnk the overheating had to do with Lion, which was after all a real piece of bad work, and which I uninstalled immediately. I only reluctantly switched to Mavericks, but it seems to be as good in this regard, maybe even better, than Snow Leopard, Apple's best OS ever.

Bob, how did your "fix" work? I've been denied by Apple for their EM209 document admitting a glue failure, as they don't acknowledge that there was a problem. (and I've found hundreds via google). I'd like to fix my laptop, but not sure of the appropriate approach. It seems like taking the screen apart (as you would if you were replacing the glass or the screen) and using a fresh adhesive, might be the way to go. Keep us posted! Mine just started this separation a couple of weeks ago. I'm just leaving it open so as not to stress it. Thanks!

Morpheus,

I'm not familiar with "depot" repair. We don't have an Apple store in our city and closest is 3.5 hours drive. Please enlighten me. I was hoping Apple would own the problem (they had a EM209 document that some folks were able to use to get free repair), but they have denied me that possibility. Locally they want $600 for a new display case. If I'm going to spend that much, I'll wait to buy a new computer. Thanks for any direction.

Sorry, ccheney51, my JB Weld solution is not a success. Or maybe, a mixed success, as in mixed epoxy.

The epoxy "tack" sort of holds the broken rail to the frame, but it doesn't help with the splay that runs along the rest of the bottom of the top case. In other words, if I keep the screen at about a 15º angle, it's stable. If I try to close the lid, it not only doesn't fit, it will break the bond and the bezel. I ended up buying a pair of bendable bookends (the simple metal type you can buy in any office supply company), bent them 15º, and set them next to each other on the table in my workspace. I then laid the MBP on them, opened. It's de facto a desktop machine. I'm having a tech take a look, see if he has a miracle solution, but if not, I may epoxy the whole ensemble together and move it to a permanent place on my desk. (Even if he does, the new parts could cost a bundle.) I'll keep my MBA synched using Synk Pro and take it with me when I go out.

Welcome to the 1990s. Doesn't Apple test its cases to destruction, like a real manufacturer? If it did, this never would have happened. And is it going to happen to every version of the MBP from now one? I hope we receive an answer. Until we do, I'm holding off on buying a replacement. Two broken MBPs is just what I don't need.

PS Fixit.com does have a page offering a repair that's like the one we're talking about, but it requires substantial part replacements that could raise the price to a prohibitive level even if you succeed in doing a better job than I did.

Thanks Bob... I'm still investigating. Right now just leaving it open and putting it to sleep. Hoping for something that will work!

I had this same problem, went to Apple who said my older unibody would not be worth fixing: I was on my own.

SO, I backed up everything and did the following, which has worked for 8 months now.

1) Opened the back up to the maximum, lit it well, and took photos where the glue was inside the case lip and near the hinges.

2) Removed the glue by scraping.

3) Sanded these old glue areas and where they bonded on the hinges, using pix to double check. Vacummed out any dust. This is important because aluminum oxidizes quickly which greatly interferes with glue bonding.

4) Etched the same spots with a weak acid, vinegar. Wiped it with H20 several times to remove after leaving it there a few minutes.

5) Cleaned everything with alcohol, let dry.

6) Applied JB-Weld, (the longest curing time version for max strength) to the places where the glue had been, not just gooping it in but being reasonably generous as well. Put some on the hinge locations exteriors (do not get into hinges or you are dead).

7) Clamped it with some books, upside down so glue would not drip into hinges (screen cover down). MAke sure you align it right, redo if needed. Leave it for two days.

Result: it worked amazingly well, It has been 6-8 months now and no issues, opens and closes properly. Has heated up many times, still no loss of adhesion.

NOTE: I do baby the hinge. People with this porblem know that in orde to open and close the computer, you have to push down on the cover in the rear over the hinges in order to keep it all together. It puts the least stress on the hinge. I continue to do that. But I have yanked it a few times and it worked fine.

I can say this method does work, but make sure you clamp it cover(screen side) side down so no epoxy drips into the hinge and freezes it. Obviously this is a desperation move, for a computer that has become nearly unsuable. So back up EVERYTHING to be on the safe side.

I just experience the same problem with my Wife's laptop tow days ago. I called Apple and they said that the Apple Store genius would take care of it for me the next day and acknowledged that this issue would be taken care off. Here I thought that was a good sign. Once I talked to the genius yesterday I was told that the laptop was vintage and out of warranty and they could not get it fixed. I have here a couple of options One is to Use Malevich7576's suggestions which I will try first. If that does not work for my laptop I will try getting a replacement from eBay.

....Apple should have had a recall on this manufacturing issue.

I'm another addition to this 2009 MBP problem. The left hand corner is split from the screen, it's only just happened a few days ago. I heard this creaking sound when I went to close it and noticed the one side jutting up a bit and not closing. My one has never been dropped and in almost perfect condition, definitely looks a like a fault. All your posts are fairly old, I live Australia and wondering about booking in with a Genius to see if they can fix it, judging by all the posts here, this is a defect of that year??

The defect is specific to 2009 Macbook Pros. The display frame engineering is flawed and inevitably will break where a hole drilled for a screw just keeps getting larger. However, I wouldn't be surprised to discover similar problems existing within other machines, problems that haven't shown themselves yet. Apple is a design company, no longer a product company. I doubt a "Genius" can do much for you other than send your machine out for repairs. These will cost you about the same amount ($500) as would purchasing a used Macbook Pro with more recent tech onboard.. My solution was to remove the damaged lid including the screen (which I sold for $100) and hook up my Macbook Pro to an old 23" HD Apple Cinema Display (which now sells variously from $50-$175). Works great and everything is big, right in front of me. Another solution is simply to buy a newer MBP, as the faulty engineering was remedied in subsequent versions.

first of all I just saw this which is odd as anytime a post thread is commented on your supposed to be notified, Depot Repair is a service offered ( if asked for) where they send your Mac to a vendor service provider and fix everything wrong with it for a flat fee, in your case it would be 315.00 with the exception being liquid or physical damage.....here is the good news and bad news and something that will no doubt **** you off. If they see a late 2008 or 2009 15 inch pro in mint condition as in nothing to blame it on , they do replace them free of charge ( destroying evidence that its not user related) and have it back and lo and behold they don't use refurbed parts but new ones.

if your mac is very clean I would contact Apple and arrange them to forward you a fedex box to ship your laptop in and chances are you will get the whole top case and any other issues resolved by doing so. If you have dents and dings don't even bother because they will say it will be 315.00 then call you 48 hours with a physical damage requote north of 500.00

Your description of the issue is good but its not specific to the 2009 model it effects all 15 inch pro's from late 2008 to early 2011. Your spot on about the hole in rail but its not a screw hole, If your glass had separated trom frame enough to look on right side you will see your web cam cable going up and a screw holding it to rail there is and inset in that whole to accept the screw. The whole on the left has zero purpose there never was a screw as no cable go"s up that side and more importantly there is no inset post so 97% of that rail at that whole is just missing.....glue issue my butt the glue was the only thing ever holding it together as it ages glue loses bond strength and your mac disintegrates before your eye's. Again i issue the challenge to all apple trolls to debate me on this subject and explain why there is a hole drilled in that rail when there is zero purpose for one on the left side ( over a year now and not a peep), one would hope that at some point like the Nvidia issue they would own the em209 issue on 2009-2010 but thus far it isn't happening

In the interest of all those that don't have access to a way to prove apple knows that screw hole to left caused the issue here is a pic of a early 2011 15 inch macbook pro screen assembly with the new style if you look at right side the webcam cable screw hole has been moved above the bottom most right lcd screw. and its a way smaller hole then in the 2008-2010 models not covering 97% of the rail with and aluminum insert to reinforce it, and um if you look to left of screen the only holes you see are LCD screws that huge whole there for no reason that was present on all these affected units is gone........Bezel separation issue due to glue failure , then why is the hole gone?

I have to say the suggestion from "Malevic 7556" worked well. I think the screen will not separate any more. One thing I must warn is for all to be patient and careful when removing the glass screen cover. There are a few videos out there on the web on how to remove it. I cracked mine but I found a replacement on Amazon for $18. The whole process was time consuming but it was well worth it. Thank you for your suggestions.