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Quad G5 Liquid Cooling System overhaul help

So, since my Lenovo Core 2 Duo died (worthless computer..), I've been without a laptop. This also means I'm using my Beige G3 for all my internet and computing needs.


I suppose that might be fine if everything out there (the internet included, and perhaps especially) weren't horribly-programmed bloatware.


Anyway, a few months ago I got a Quad G5 off eBay for $150, As-Is. What turned out to be wrong with it is that the LCS needs to be overhauled; unless I run it in "Reduced" mode in Energy Saver, it crashes within ten to fifteen seconds of use at full speed, after hitting over 200F.


Only problem is, I"m not quite sure what tools I need.


It's a Quad G5, with the Delphi LCS block. Can anyone link me to EXACTLY what tools I need to take the thing apart? I know I need some sort of Hex screws and torx screws, but do NOT know what size. I know I need O-Rings, but don't know how to meausre them exactly, so I don't know what size I'd need. I *DO* know what kind of coolant to use... I don't really know what sort of tubing to buy.


Please help? I really like the Quad, it's very fast... and that's at literally 1/2 speed. But I certainly can't justify upgrading it yet without being able to use it at 2.5 GHz instead of 1.25.


Help is much appreciated. Again, what I need is the specs of tools I need, quite preferably links to exactly what I need. I know XLR8YourMac etc. have done a lot of detailed guides on this, but they weren't on Quad G5s, and AFAIK the tools necessary are slightly different for a Quad. Thanks!

PowerMac, Mac OS X (10.5.8), Quad G5, 1.5 GB RAM, 750 GB, 7800GT

Posted on Oct 3, 2011 8:32 AM

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50 replies

Oct 22, 2011 3:47 PM in response to Dan-Lempesis-Omega

Thanks BD, I'll check those out.


At the moment I've removed the CPUs/LCS (thought I wouldn't be able to for a while... lol, so sad...), and have just ordered the suggested Thermal Paste.


Until I receive it, I don't know if I"ll take the two apart.


I'm still pretty baffled as to how I'm going to connect an ATX PSU to the pump. It's got seven, unevenly spaced prongs, and they're flat.. not round. Not exactly your typical molex connekctor.


I realize people have tried to explain what to do, but my ability to visualize things is really extremely poor... is there any way to explain (maybe slowly.. 😟 ), or even find pictures?


I thank you all again for your patience and your help.

Oct 22, 2011 10:17 PM in response to Dan-Lempesis-Omega

I'll try to take some pictures of the pump connection. So far, I've only used the pump while cleaning the radiator, and now in retrospect, I think a better way to do that would have been to connect a faucet, using a garden hose connector, straight to the rad. I didn't have the proper connectors for a faucet connection, though.


Originally, I was hoping that I wouldn't have to replace the tubing and that cleaning would be accomplished simply by running hot water (or vinegar+water) through one open connection (with inlet/outlet in a bucket) in the loop with the pump. Didn't happen.

Oct 27, 2011 9:15 AM in response to Heikki Lindholm

Heikki, I have to confess I can make neither hide nor tail of the picture.


What do you mean you used a molex from an old CPU fan? I thought you were supposed to hook it up to an ATX PSU?


How did you know which pins to power? And why aren't they the first four.. which I assumed were the correct ones?


I don't really know what the alligator clips are for, unless they're just to bridge a connection... and I can't tell what the mess of wires is doing/where it's all leading to/from.


Could you possibly give me a detailed explanation of how to power the pump? Slowly, like I'm five.

Oct 27, 2011 12:33 PM in response to Dan-Lempesis-Omega

It's a temporary connection, so, it's not supposed to look nice. Let's see if I could explain it.


First, the pin numbering comes from the pump connector. It has numbers written on it. Not all the pins are physically there, though. I guessed the pins based on the Dual G5 pinouts posted here and elsewhere.


In the first photo, there's the pump connector, with red alligator clips attached to pins 1 and 5, and black alligator clip attached to pin 7.


In the third photo you see the other ends of the two red clips and the black clip. There, the red clips are both attached to a yellow wire (+12V) from a male molex (the lower molex of the photo). The black clip is attached to the black wire (GND) from the same male molex. The male molex in question is the one from the old cpu fan, which just means that it was ok to cut the fan out to produce a male molex with open leads. You could source a suitable male molex from anywhere, or try to stick the alligator clips straight to the psu female molex.


The male molex in the picture is connected to a standard psu female molex, which has its wires coming from the top of picture (from the psu, of course).


The other leads from the male molex, extending to the bottom of the picture go to a pc motherboard fan connector, which was still attached to the molex. The fan had dual power connectors. That's all irrelevant, of course.


I didn't take a picture of the hack to allow using the psu outside of the computer because this was actually an old Nokia server psu, which has its very own set of weird connectors. However, the ATX equivalent is documented in many places (short green+black wires iirc).

Nov 2, 2011 2:39 AM in response to Dan-Lempesis-Omega

Thanks for all that Heikki. I wonder if you (or anyhone else reading this) could throw any light on the problem I have of replacing a dead (Delphi/Laing) pump with a new Laing DDC-1T.


Earlier Laing pumps had a PCB on which (supposedly) you could remove a wire bridge between two terminals and then use all four terminals to connect to the original four wire Mac connector, but at some stage Laing changed to a new PCB (marked DDC3.1-PWM / 075-162) which has no bridge and switched-around connections, including one blank.


The connections for the existing three wires are straightforward: yellow = 12v, black = ground, blue = tacho. It is tempting to assume that the fourth Mac wire, for variable speed control, could simply be connected to the blank connector on the pump PCB, but there are various things I need to understand before trying this.


1) In the original G5 single Delphi pump setup (2.5 Dual, June 2004), what did the fourth (“V mot”/variable speed, pin4) wire actually do? Did it involve PWM (pulse-width modulation) or did it supply a variable voltage?

2) Is PWM speed control something that the Delphi/Laing pumps have always supported, or is there something new about the latest generation of PCB with “PWM” included as part of the designation?

3) If the blank terminal on the latest PCBs is intended for a PWM control wire (and its use for this in a Swiftech adaptation, the MCP35X seems to confirm this), is there any reason to doubt that the G5 could control it via the fourth wire?

Nov 2, 2011 3:20 AM in response to NickSloan

Nick, I'm basically having the same problem, at least, soon. I managed to damage the pump's tach output somehow and now it runs full rpm all the time. I tried contacting various Laing support addresses but couldn't find an e-mail address that actually works anymore (after their ITT merger).


First, are you sure you can't transfer the PCB over from the old pump? There are also E-bay sellers with a stock of pumps pulled from G5s.


I would guess the Laing PCBs haven't changed that much over time. The Quads apparently used various revisions of the Laing DDC pumps, or at least, I've seen pictures of Quad pumps that have different stickers than the imprint on mine. They are probably all compatible or easily modified. I have a faint recollection that the connectors on the PCB were in different order in different revisions however.


In the quad, the pump runs at full rpm without the tach, so, I think if slightly increased noise isn't an issue, it doesn't really matter if the G5 can control the pump or not. Not having the tach appears to cause the firmware to supply the pump with what I'd guess is voltage enough for 3600 rpm operation. The pump's 50000 hour mtbf should be for full rpm operation and should be more than enough time to outlast the G5. It probably doesn't matter if the V-mot wire from the G5 isn't connected at all.


Like you, I would like an official word on the pump connection, however.


At anandtech forums and others, there's a guy "bmaverick" who might have an answer.

Nov 2, 2011 3:55 AM in response to Dan-Lempesis-Omega

Thanks again Heikki.

Good tip about ebay; I wish I had seen that before investing in a new Laing.


I might be able to swap over PCBs, but it would involve more soldering than I am comfortable with, and really raises as many questions as connecting to the exiasting pcb, since the motor configuration looks quite different. And I don't even know if my old PCB is still good.


I have asked questions elsewhere, including attempts to contact Laing, but I was really asking here to try to find out more on the Mac control end of things. Do you know the answer to my question 1), about PWM?

Nov 2, 2011 5:15 AM in response to NickSloan

Nick, I'm sorry I have no facts about the PWM control. It would seem likely that the "V-mot" control from the Mac is PWM because (1) that's what the Laing pumps seem to have if they advertise speed control and (2) if the G5 pump was voltage controlled, why have two voltage lines when one would be sufficient? Then again, the Quad pump didn't even start without applying 12V to the V-mot...


A data point (see the comments): http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/03/09/laing-ddc-1-ddc-1t/

Nov 2, 2011 10:42 PM in response to NickSloan

Some further thoughts: As it shouldn't matter if fixed voltage is applied to PWM input, it should be safe to test. The empty tab in the Laing -PWM PCB apparently is a PWM input:

http://www.pcmasters.de/forum/wasserkuehlung/87558-howto-laing-ddc-1t-auf-pwm-um bauen.html

However, the Intel specs say that the max voltage from PWM headers should be around 5 V whereas at least the Quad gives out 12 V, which might be a problem. If no conclusive answers to this question appear, I'll just borrow a scope. Don''t want to spend 80 € on a useless pump.

Nov 3, 2011 9:19 AM in response to Dan-Lempesis-Omega

Yes Heikki, there is an increasing amount of evidence that the new PCB Laing pumps (LAING DDC3.1PWM) do support PWM, and that that is what the empty terminal is for. The crucial question for us now is just what comes down that G5 V-mot wire, and is it the right flavour of PWM control?


One of the things that worries me is that the PCB on the original Mac pump seems quite unlike the standard Laing DDC-1 PCBs, and that on the side of the pump casing it says “Type: DDC-1VC”. DDC-1 makes sense, but what about VC: voltage control? It also says “SINE”; why?


Someone must know the answer to these questions, but until they are answered I am tempted just to hook up the pump with three wires, or go for a secondhand one on ebay.

Nov 4, 2011 2:59 AM in response to Dan-Lempesis-Omega

Of course; thanks Heikki.


You might be interested in the comments on this page

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/25/swiftech-mcp-35x-reservoir/


It seems as though there are uncertainties from both ends again. Do you, or does anyone, know how much of a problem it might be just to run the pump with three wires (no V-mot)? Does this cause the system to run all the fans at full speed as well as the pump, or otherwise produce difficulties?

Nov 4, 2011 6:38 AM in response to NickSloan

Interesting link, Nick. Too bad they couldn't confirm anything either.


A thought about the DDC PWM control: Maybe all the Laing pumps have PWM control (assuming that's what the G5s and old Laing models use), but they normally don't work with the 3.3 V or 5 V voltage supplied by PC motherboards. The G5 gives out 12 V from the motor control line (as measured by a cheapish voltage meter). Maybe the MCP35X is just modified to handle the lower voltage and that's the reason it works with "common" PWM controllers while the others don't.


If the Dual is like the Quad, it doesn't matter whether the motor control (or the tach) are connected or not, the 12 V line works anyway. So, you should be able to run the pump. Although, I'm not sure what happens when the tach is connected but the motor control isn't. Other fans are not affected by the pump. ASD will fail, but that seems to be about it for adverse effects.

Quad G5 Liquid Cooling System overhaul help

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