1TB Hard drive replacement for early PowerMac G5 ?

Western Digital Black and Hitachi 7K drives will be your best bet.

AVOID Western Digital Green, Hitachi 5K and all Seagate drives.

I find that SATA 3 drives are quieter and cooler than SATA 2.

Manchester, as in UK? Links to Amazon, UK follow....

Plug and play is the Hitachi 7K:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hitachi-Deskstar-7K1000-Drive-Buffer/dp/B001ARH794/ref=s r_1_7?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1330359531&sr=1-7

This WD Black SATA 2 is plug and play:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0036Q7MV0/ref=s9_simh_bw_p147_d0_g147_i3?pf_ rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0FKVJRXK53G5VPJT6JYS&pf_rd_t=101&pf _rd_p=228922307&pf_rd_i=428655031

Use a jumper on pins 5 and 6 and use the fast, Western Digital Black SATA 3:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Western-Digital-1-5TB-Internal-Drive/dp/B004CSIFG2/ref=s r_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1330359831&sr=1-2

The jumper is shown as the OPT 1 diagram on the following page:

http://www.wdc.com/en/library/eide/2579-001037.pdf

By a jumper at PC supply stores.

Thanks so much for your detailed response. I have opted to go with the 1.5tb drive and have managed to get a jumper from my IT guy at work. I hope I can sort the jumper settin correctly but will follow the diagram. Just waiting for the drive to arrive and I will give installing it my best shot.

I was wondering can I partition it to a 1tb and a 500mb separately ?

I was wondering can I partition it to a 1tb and a 500mb separately ?

Roughly (capacity wise), but Yes, 1 TB and 500 GB isn't a problem.

I hope I can sort the jumper settin correctly but will follow the diagram.

As long as you can see small detail, it's no problem.

A pair of forceps or tweezers will help put the tiny jumper on the pins.

I will give installing it my best shot.

I'm sure you will be fine, but we're usually around to help if needed.....

There is also this:

http://manuals.info.apple.com/en/PMG5_HD_DIY.pdf

Thank you thank you. . Once again your advice has proved invaluable. It's so kind of you to help. Best regards.

Hi, I am going through the same thing. Looking for a good 1tb internal hard drive for my G5. Japamac I saw that you mentioned to stay away from all Seagates. I was just about to purchase on when I saw this. Can you explain to me why I should avoid Seagate. I previously got a 149gb Western Digital that I've had problems with along the way. The drive would just shut down and wouldn't come back until I restarted it a few times. This is the drive I will be replacing. So you can see why I'm leary about WD. I just need to be convinced that I'll be ok with the WD.

Thanks in advance,

Christina

It's all about the firmware.

Since the 7200.10 drives, Seagate has had perennial firmware issues with regard to use and performance in PPC Macs.

Of course, the issues were "fixed", but subsequent releases of the 7200.11 and 7200.12 drives saw spates of firmware (or other) related issues in PPC machines.

Issues were also seen in Intel and Windows machines, but patches and updates were available for those.

There is not and won't be a way to update drive firmware in PPC machines.

So, it's mostly a matter of history and relaying the message regarding past issues with PPC machines and the Seagate drives.

They may be OK, now, BUT, I don't have empirical, verifiable reports of what current drive models are successfully used in what PPC machine.

If people will provide a model and report of performance in there PPC machine, I will be glad to relay that.

As it currently stands, the majority of successful reports are with WD Black (or Blue) drives and Hitachi 7K drives.

Don't forget that there is also the data rate negotiation issue with the G5 SATA 1.5 Gbps controller. A SATA 6.0 Gbps drive either needs a track record of properly auto-negotiating down (Hitachi 7K) or needs a physical method to force slowing the data rate (WD drives).

Ok, that all makes sense, thank you.

"Don't forget that there is also the data rate negotiation issue with the G5 SATA 1.5 Gbps controller. A SATA 6.0 Gbps drive either needs a track record of properly auto-negotiating down (Hitachi 7K) or needs a physical method to force slowing the data rate (WD drives)."

That has to do with where the jumpers are. Correct? Could this be the problem I had with my ATA WD drive shutting down while running as a slave with my DVD-R running as the master? I didn't know about the jumpers at that time. Would changing the jumper on the DVD-R to master and the WD to a slave position possibly help the two run together. It worked for a while and then it started shutting down, now I can't boot the two together and have to disconnect one to get the other to work. Would possibly changing the jumpers help with this? I would love to keep tgat 149g ATA WD as storage space.

And one more question. I am now confused with the WD Black and Blue. Is there a significant difference. I'm not a gamer so I don't think the speed matters that much. I mainly use it for graphics and some business related stuff. Would Blue be sufficient for my use?

That has to do with where the jumpers are. Correct?

Yes. More the question, can the drive be jumped to reduce the data rate? In the case of a SATA 6.0 Gbps drive, it needs to reduce to SATA 3.0 Gbps for the G5 to auto-negotiate.

Would changing the jumper on the DVD-R to master and the WD to a slave position possibly help the two run together.

If a drive is added to the optical drive ATA bus, Yes, one needs to be Master (the Optical drive to maintain boot ability), and the secondary drive Slave.

What machine is this WD ATA drive installed in? What is the model of the WD drive? There are one or two with known issues.

WD Black and Blue. Is there a significant difference

Speed (performance) is pretty much the same with Blacks being slightly faster (model dependant). Cache size differences may also exist, but typically, the main difference is the robustness of the drive. Blacks are intended to take more severe use for longer; servers, gamers, production graphics, etc. Blue are consumer oriented drives for those more casual (typical) users that demand less of their machines.

Blacks have a 5 yr. warranty, Blue have a 3 yr.

Chris, the jumpers on the DVD drive have nothing to do with the jumpers on a hard drive. They don't work in conjunction with each other. If you have a single DVD drive the jumpers for it need to be set to master. If you add a second CD or DVD drive the jumpers for that one need to be set to slave, but in some cases cable select.

If you have a ata or ide hard drive, both are the same, ata is just a newer term. Then a single hard drive needs the jumpers to be set to master. If you add a second hard drive that one needs to be set to slave.

If you have a sata hard drive you don't have to set jumpers to master or slave even if you add a second hard drive.

I think your being a little to cautious with hard drives. Adding a second hard drive is quite simple.Your problem likely arose because the computer is old and the hard drive is failing.

the jumpers on the DVD drive have nothing to do with the jumpers on a hard drive.

They (jumpers) have everything to do with differentiating (device 0 or device 1) on the single ATA bus that the two devices are connected.

The system needs a way to differentiate between multiple devices connected to a single ATA/IDE ribbon, be it jumpers (only) or jumpers and position.

In reference to:

Could this be the problem I had with my ATA WD drive shutting down while running as a slave with my DVD-R running as the master? I didn't know about the jumpers at that time. Would changing the jumper on the DVD-R to master and the WD to a slave position possibly help the two run together.

Unclear, but both on the same bus require proper jumpers

I know this, but rarely are two devices such as cd drive and hard drive connected to the same ribbon cable. It would have to be a very old computer. I assume the computer Chris has is using two separate ide ribbon cables one for hard disk and the other for cd drives. With two devices able to connect to each ribbon cable with correct jumper settings.

Refer to the 4th or 5th paragraph on why it is better to have cd's and hard drives on separate ribbon cables.

http://en.kioskea.net/contents/assemblage/branchement-disques-durs.php3

but rarely are two devices such as cd drive and hard drive connected to the same ribbon cable.

A very common mod for G4 users.