Currently Being ModeratedMay 17, 2012 11:34 PM (in response to clintonfrombirmingham)
With all that stuff running, consider yourself well served. I've gotten up to 7:30 on mine, running Firefox, Safari, Word, and Excel, with Wi-Fi on, screen at 50%, keyboard backlight off and the GPU fixed on the Intel built-in. The 10.7.4 did improve battery life somewhat, IMHO, but you already have that. You're gonna have to ditch some of the apps, best bet would be the virtualizer, or at least get the guest OS to take it easy.MacBook Pro (15-inch Late 2011), Mac OS X (10.7.4), 2.4GHz, 8GB, Widescreen/Anti-glare
Currently Being ModeratedMay 18, 2012 12:59 AM (in response to Courcoul)
The problem is that I can't get rid of my VM - I have to run Adobe LiveCycle Designer on it. The only battery hogs that I might be able to just open when I really need them are Illustrator and Photoshop. I'm going to try that out (when my battery is charged). One thing I have noticed, upgrading from a 1,1 MacBook Pro, is that my new MacBook Pro takes a shorter time to recharge the battery. I never let it drain completely - usually just until I see about 15 minutes left - and I'm quite happy with the battery life, overall. I just want to know if there are some 'tricks' that I'm overlooking (and, yes, I have everything set in Energy Saver just right).
Thanks for the reply - I might just have to live with no more than 3 1/2 hours!
Currently Being ModeratedMay 18, 2012 6:38 AM (in response to clintonfrombirmingham)
One oft overlooked battery drainer is the Dashboard. Unknown to many, each widget is a live process on its own, and many of them (especially the third-party ones) are happily plugging away at the network and the battery all the time. Click on the + go into Manage widgets... and disable all you don't use (except, probably, iStat Pro, the widget du jour extraordinaire).MacBook Pro (15-inch Late 2011), Mac OS X (10.7.4), 2.4GHz, 8GB, Widescreen/Anti-glare
Currently Being ModeratedMay 18, 2012 7:31 AM (in response to clintonfrombirmingham)
I would recommend checking, if you model's battery should be calibrated. Here's the link, giving information about calibration necessity of each models as well as recommendations on the procedure:
I'm considering going throug this procedure as well. But I'm in doubt whether this recommendation is relevant for my old laptop. The page informs, the calibration procedure described there it's for new batteries. I don't think my accumulator can be new enough for this way of calibration. My model is MBP early 2008. So, if anybody gives me a piece of advice...?
Currently Being ModeratedMay 18, 2012 7:51 AM (in response to misclellanious matters)
misclellanious matters wrote:
My model is MBP early 2008. So, if anybody gives me a piece of advice...?
Note that the Early 2008 MBP is a very different beast that Clinton, besides the obvious fact of the age. Battery calibration is a must in those models and the battery durability is much shorter: 80%@300 cycles vs. 85%@1000 cycles for the new unibodies. On those older models, the recommendation is to recalibrate every 2-3 months. And don't be surprised to have to go thru a few batteries along the way; mine chewed thru three batteries during the 4 years it lasted.
Currently Being ModeratedMay 18, 2012 8:51 AM (in response to misclellanious matters)
I don't think that I need to calibrate, or recalibrate, my battery. It's a lithium polymer and, from what I've read, need no calibration. I might be wrong - someone please let me know if I am!
Currently Being ModeratedMay 18, 2012 10:17 AM (in response to Courcoul)
My thanx go to Mexico. I'm happy I noticed that I forgot to type the last letter in the word "through" in my previous comment after your answer to that comment cause I got that possibility to watch you play with that mistake of mine twice)
Currently Being ModeratedMay 18, 2012 3:37 PM (in response to clintonfrombirmingham)
I don't think that I need to calibrate, or recalibrate, my battery. It's a lithium polymer and, from what I've read, need no calibration.
The calibration, especially in those older generation batteries, is for your benefit, not the battery's. All LiPo batteries have to have by law a control circuit that regulates the charging process. If you overcharge a LiPo you can have a fire hazard due to a thermal runaway condition. To prevent this, the cells are charged at most to 95-98% full (even though the owner is told 100%) and the charge controller takes care of that. A side benefit is that the circuitry knows at all times what the cells are up to and can report the state of charge. But as they age, the circuitry diverges from reality: it thinks the battery is still young & strong, even though it is ancient and drecrepit. The calibration procedure realigns the control circuitry with harsh reality.
Since yer stinkin' fast 'puter will get things done pronto, you may have time to further educate yourself in battery lore: http://batteryuniversity.com/