IPAD2 Magnetic On/Off Sensor not working after replacing power ribbon

I have the exact same issue. I ordered the replacement ribbon cable from Gadget Parts, inc on Amazon. Where did you order from? Maybe we got a bad batch? Did you try a new cover? I too am puzzled but havent replaced the cable a second time yet like you.

It's not a setting on mine but I'm sure you have tried to change the iPad Cover Lock setting under general?

I also tried to troubleshoot using a heavy magnet of my own and no luck.

Help!

I realize this is old but I'm struggling with this issue now. I still haven't glued the screen back on so here's what I've learned. Part of the Power / Volume flex cable includes a small tab with a sensor that is supposed to sit in an up facing 'bay' between the main connector and the volume toggle. For this to position properly the adhesive on the back of the cable and the tab must hold the cable properly to allow the tab sensor to stay in the bay and facing up. I'm currently struggling to keep the tab stuck down and it's action is becoming erratic. At least after some research I realize now that it's a magnetic or proximity sensor, not a light sensor.

Maybe this will help someone as this part of the ribbon cable isn't well documented in the replacement videos.

I have a growing pile of faulty versions of this cable from various suppliers all of which have non functioning Hall Effect magnetic switches. Other faults have been a missing capacitor, non functioning button switches and solder bridged switches. These seems to be a market in faulty versions of this cable.

These seems to be a market in faulty versions of this cable.

Because the cables come from damaged devices, an iPad salvage yard. Apple does not sell parts.

I do not think they have ever been installed. When the cable is installed it is twisted and there is no evidence of this on the specimens I have bought. I suspect that they are simply production line rejects from whatever factory is producing the item. Since different faults are present on different samples of the cable I have combined parts from different cables to get working versions. The non working Hall Effect sensor remains the major problem because its failure is so common and its origin and part number has no yet, so far as I know, been identified.

I have found that the original 821-1151-A cable differs from all the replacements I have bought so far as follows:

1. The original has the two pins of the Hall Effect device chip towards the edge of the cable connected together by the print and the connected by a track in the cable to system earth. On the fake cable the pins are connected together but go nowhere.

2. The two pins of the Hall chip away from from the edge of the cable are connected to separate print tracks on the original but are connected together on the fake.

3. The multipin connector on the original cable has metal end cap reinforcements which are missing from the fake.

4. On the original cable the system earth side of the slide switch is connected to the multipin connector and on the fake is not.

5. The print connecting the cable to the multipin connector on one side lacks the individual contact connections of the original.

Since a Hall Device needs at least three circuit connections to function these cables are obvious fakes.

I can not find a way to edit my last post so I am doing the correction here.

Items 4 and 5 from my list should be omitted because on checking I found that they are wrong.

I have found that the easy way to identify the fake version of this cable is to examine the rectangular plastic mount for the Hall chip. On the fake version there are only 3 tracks joining the main cable (2 from the Hall chip and 1 from the capacitor) but on the genuine version there are 4 tracks (3 from the Hall chip and 1 from the capacitor).