ibook g4 not charging after DC inboard change

Hello Brera

Did you replace the DC inboard yourself?

If so, one thing worth checking is the connection from the DC inboard to the logic board.

If the little connector on the logic board don't close correctly flush with the cable, it tends to have this problem.

Was the DC inboard cable changed at the same time as the inboard was replaced? In most cases the cable comes with the DC inboard, but not always.

I pin pointing this as, I've had the very same problem with a G3 12" iBook in the past. The cable was not clipped in right on the logic board. I found it would work off the battery, but not off the power cable and it wouldn't charge. It took me some time to find the fault, as it wasn't very obvious just taking the base off and looking.

Some times when the base has been taken off and the shield, it pulls on the DC inboard cable, making it come disconnected just slightly from the logic board.

Hello,

That would sure stump me too. It could be a faulty DC inboard again, but unlikely if both have the same fault. You say the unit doesn't switch on with the power connected? You're using a 45 Watt power supply?

Have you tired cleaning the contacts on the logic board where the DC inboard slots in? Best to try that with a tin of compressed air.

I doubt it would be anything to do with the contact for the battery, but inspect them accordingly. It sounds like it could be a fault with a component on the logic board. There are two power sources this unit can use. One from the power supply and the other from the battery. Oddly enough then printed circuit on the logic board separates these sources. Power is coming in from the DC inboard but lost somewhere on the logic board. That's why I suspected the the connection on the logic board with the DC inboard cable.

I would try one more DC-in board. I'm guessing this was a used one? Maybe it is faulty.

Otherwise, yes, you're looking at problems with the logic board.

I think you have exhausted all options open to you, unless you have a multi-meter with very fine contacts.

It would be handy to know if there is power coming from the DC inboard. Like Ronda has said, maybe try another DC inboard, but I would suspect the fault to be with the logic board.

It maybe worth inspecting the logic board with a picture from iFix (Google iFix for iBook)

Just check if anything is amiss or obvious. Some times it could be as simple as a contact not in place or a shorting on the board created by a loose peace of shielding.

Hello,

Which model is the iBook? I'm farmilair with most of the componants on the 12", but I doubt it would take me long to descover the 14" iBook.

As far as I know, if it is a problem with the logic board (or the connector to the logic board), the only solution is a replacement logic board.

Some especially skilled people can work with logic board components, but that is beyond most do-it-yourselfers.

Hello,

Ronda is correct in some respect, however I've known many successful repairs done on components if you have the time to check the logic board. It really does come down to how handy you maybe with electronics and soldering irons. It can be very simple and having looked at the iBook G4 schematics yesterday there would be a lot to test and check.

If you have found a logic board at a reasonable price then that is good. Just be careful that it's the right logic board for your iBook. I would be inclined to replace like for like, so if it's a 1.33Mhz logic board, then I would replace it with a 1.33Mhz logic board and not a 1.45Mhz board.

It is relatively simple to replace a logic board in some respects, but Just be careful when taking the board off the frame and more importantly, ground yourself first as your dealing with sensitive electronics.

Best of luck with this, I hope you can get your iBook working again. 🙂

The MacBook with the Intel chip set are completely different boards, with different port configuration. It wont fit in an iBook. The 1.42 GHz processor board may fit, but there is a different in the AirPort card. The airport card I believe is built-in, unlike the card type on the 1.33mhz. I am not sure the configuration of the sub frame is a little bit different taking into account their is no AirPort card to slot in. Your best to just re-build the iBook with a like for like board. Less messing about trying to get the board to fit and work correctly.

PowerBook have completely different configurations again and therefore they wont fit in an iBook either sadly.

Best of luck.