Q: MacBook Pro Retina display burn-in?

Hm, usually there are magnets in the upper part of your screen casing which activate a reed switch when closed. Seems that your magnets are missing or not close enough or whatever. :/

Hello, I just got my rMBP yesterday and its....an LG .

It's week 40 on chipmunk and 41 on apple. The unit is perfect and the screen is amazing! only problem is, it has some very faint IR. I need to leave something at one place for 15 min and use a darkgrey background to only manage to see it. It goes away in less than a minute. I'm scared that if I exchange it, I will end up with a worse unit....not to mention not being able to use my rMBP for a week or more...

Any suggestions? I was thinking of going in to the apple store and telling them that if it got worse that I expect a unit switch or new display...I have apple care.

Thank you all

Aetherus wrote:

 

Hello, I just got my rMBP yesterday and its....an LG .

It's week 40 on chipmunk and 41 on apple. The unit is perfect and the screen is amazing! only problem is, it has some very faint IR. I need to leave something at one place for 15 min and use a darkgrey background to only manage to see it. It goes away in less than a minute. I'm scared that if I exchange it, I will end up with a worse unit....not to mention not being able to use my rMBP for a week or more...

Any suggestions? I was thinking of going in to the apple store and telling them that if it got worse that I expect a unit switch or new display...I have apple care.

 

Thank you all

If the machine is really perfect otherwise - you should leave it. I learned that it's actually much easier to replace a screen on Retina than anything else - even if the keyboard is loose or trackpad bad - it's really a lot of digging for Apple to fix it. With the screen - they simply replace the whole lid and it's done. And with IR it seems like they would not leave us without help.

I however still wonder why my new rMBP (from week 39) makes a high pitched squeal/noise whenever there is a lot of ssd read/write (repair disk permissions in disk utility, running download test on speedtest.net). It really is quite loud for me on 3 machines I tried, while nobody of people from forums seem to have that problem. I wonder if it's some bad batch or others just hear less than me?:)

Thanks

So should I go and try to get the screen replaced right away while im in the 14 days? Because I'm kind of scared I will get a worse screen, but the thought of getting a perfect samsung is tempting.

Well I just got my laptop back, it's a Samsung screen.

I regret it.

I just cannot get the white to be, well, WHITE. It's driving me nuts, I'm feeling like I should have just dealt with the IR, since that LG screen was phenomenal otherwise. The repair itself was good though, looks like no scratches, I had a clicky hinge before, now that's fixed. But...eh... yellow.

By the way, it is not noticeably brighter, it may even be dimmer than the LG. I'm seriously regretting it. Ugh.

Exactly my dilemma right now...

Danny Swish wrote:

 

Well I just got my laptop back, it's a Samsung screen.

 

I regret it.

 

I just cannot get the white to be, well, WHITE. It's driving me nuts, I'm feeling like I should have just dealt with the IR, since that LG screen was phenomenal otherwise. The repair itself was good though, looks like no scratches, I had a clicky hinge before, now that's fixed. But...eh... yellow.

LG screen week 41, No issues, after a few days, did all tests (IR etc.) and screen past with flying colors.

I'd rather have the lately nice LG screens with very little IR, and risk the possibility of it getting worse in the future (within 3 years) than an IR-free Samsung with mura and yellow whites.

Hoorah, I've also discovered that I have mura and lightbleeds all along the bottom and right sides. Hooray! Yeah! Woo hoo! I'm obviously in a state of f*ck-the-world-and-all-who-inhabit-it. Like I said before, I. Will. Not. Rest. Until. A. Perfect. Screen. Is. Mine.

I've made an appointment for the Genius Bar on Tuesday. Wish me luck.

its ok now.

dont know how,but its going to sleep

Sorry Jeroenbe for my late response.

Yes you can just use any regular harddrive for Time Machine backup. It is very simple and straightforward.

You connect your harddrive. Then go to the Time Machine logo on the toolbar at the right upper side.Then open time machine preferences. The select harddrive (don't forget to exclude stuff if you want to, like movies or downloads) and then swtich it on. Simple as that.

Then with your replacement machine. You either drag stuff manually from the backup folder, or you recover a full time machine backup in recovery mode.

Good luck.

Jeroenbe wrote:

 

Is it possible to run a timemachine backup on a regular external hard drive?

 

I knew the problem excisted but decided not to look for it. But when using maya (which has a dark grey interface) i noticed ghosting images of previous opened websites. So in daily use, then ofcourse i did some test and the problems then really showed up. Now i see image retention after 1-2 mins. This obviously is unacceptable

To the rest, Suddenly I have two specks of dust behind the screen on the left corner. It wasn't there before

It is always light up by the pixels behind it so once you know it kind of anoying. Any tips how to remove it? Tapping, blowing?

Sending the machine back isn't an option anymore since I really need it now.

Okay, so I've had a few hours to get used to this Sammy (and to cool down), and I've started to get used to it. Sure it's a bit yellow, sure it bugs me, but it's bugging me less. Though I do want to add that changing the white point in calibration does not solve anything. Even when I forced it all the way to literally blue (around 7800) it still had that yellowey...feel. Like, as if there was an ultrathin yellow film over the screen. Grey is where you can see the yellow most. And I'm pretty sure the screen is yellower on the right side than it is the left...

Under closer inspection I found that the right side is where most of the lightbleeding is occuring, along with the bottom. I also noticed a very-faint-but-still-there mura near the right of the screen. I tried squeezing the glass a little bit and found that the lightbleed AND yellowness disappeared. I'm thinking maybe Samsung just doesn't squeeze the glass to the display tightly enough, causing some kind of yellow for some reason. Or something. Whatever. The LG screens appear superior in every way except for IR. Would it be dumb to go back to the Genius Bar and ask for an LG? I want to avoid waiting for another "repair". Maybe Apple Care could send me an entirely fresh Macbook Pro while I kept this one and rotate them out until I hit the jackpot? I thought I heard of a few people doing this.

Canuck, if you have an opinion, do you reccommend the Spyder 4 Pro over the Eye 1 Pro (or the newest one that works with Mt. Lion)  I need to get a unit. I know the Sp4 is newer.  I'm having a little trouble deciding.

Well, I have reached an Apple premium reseller in Hamburg just yesterday. The deal was to check 2 or 3 rMBPs before leaving in peace. Before we start unboxing they guaranteed me to have an LSN replacement in case I got a problem later on. From the first shot we got:

LSN154YL01001

No yellow tint, it seems fine.

Build week: 35

Hi fellas,

  I bought my rMBP yesterday and while reading reviews on various websites saw a comment from a user in regard to the "burn in issue" Needless to say i decided to look into it some more and then ended up here. I was feeling sick to be honest when i read all the negative comments in regards to the screens.

Here is where I am at, I have a UK rMBP the £1799 base model. It was purchased in PCWorld and the LCD planel fitted is:

Color LCD

LP154WT1-SJA1

DCN2346006FDMJ0AX

So if im following along with what you guys have posted already I have an LG screen. I ran the RetinaBurn test for 15 mins the day I had it and i ran the test again today. I have so far got no Ghosting at all. the screen is bright, sharp and not yellowish its perfect. I will test again in a few days and will keep doing so up until the 14 day warranty period and keep this updated. Hopefully we will at some point be able to find the guilty build numbers in order to identify good ones.

How do you identify the build week?

Mark