Q: MacBook Pro Retina display burn-in?

I did go to the store today and tried the IR test on one.  Didn't do the IR, but when I pushed on the center of the underside, it felt like it was popping a bit.  Is this what everyone refers to as the clicking under there on the chassis?  Do they all do this?

x0054 wrote:

 

In general, I find Spyder4Express to be pretty good when paired with Argyll software with dispcalGUI. Spyder4Pro has the added benefit of having an ambient light sensor, but for laptops that feature is a bit moot.

I've been hesitant to try x0054's instructions on using Argyll (http://argyllcms.com/) and dispcalGUI (http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/) because I have no confidence that these yellow-tinted displays can be corrected. You can fiddle around and get them to look pinkish or bluish or purplish but they just can't be made to look white like my first display was. I've tried the two profiles that x0054 posted and they're purplish. If someone wants to try Argyll and dispalGUI and report whether or not your whites look white that's great. I tried but I got confused and gave up.

Merch,

Every screen is a little different, so it’s entirely possible that your screen would look quite a bit off with my profile. If you have access to Spyder4, try calibrating it, and see what happens. I tried it on 2 computers with really good results, but, that’s not to say that it will work every time. It’s entirely possible that you can have a screen that’s so out of spec that no amount of calibration would fix it.

For future reference, here are the steps I have used:

1. Install the software for whatever version of Spyder4 you have. You don’t need the software, but you need the drivers.

2. Download Argyll (http://argyllcms.com/Argyll_V1.6.2_osx10.6_x86_64_bin.tgz)

3. Extract the archive to a folder on your desktop (or any other location you can remember).

4. Download dispcalGUI (http://downloads.sourceforge.net/project/dispcalgui/release/1.5.3.1/dispcalGUI-1 .5.3.1.dmg)

5. Copy the dispcalGUI.app to your desktop or Applications folder and run it.

6. It will first ask you for the location of the Argyll binaries. Point it to the bin/ directory located in the Argyll folder you extracted in step 3.

7. Next it will ask you for your password, because it needs to have admin privileges to be able to access your display settings.

8. In the main window, to the left of the “Instrument” dropdown menu you will see a refresh icon (two circular arrows). Plug your Spyder4 and hit the refresh arrow. You should see Spyder4 appear in the dropdown menu.

9. For whitepoint select Color Temperature, and set it to 6500 or 6800. I personally like 6800 better, though it’s a bit less natural. (Hint: There is a bug, you will have to insert the 8 in front of the 5 and then delete the 5)

10. Leave the Black and White levels “as measured.”

11. You can set the speed to “Very High.” It works just as good, and it’s not much faster, to be honest.

12. Set profile quality to high and profile type to “Curves+Matrix.” You can optionally click “Black Point Compensation.” Google about the last one if you need more info.

13. Use the default filed for the Testchart file.

14. Name the new profile how ever you please and click “Calibrate & Profile.”

15. Place Spyder4 in the box on the screen and hit “start measurement.”

16. It will first measure your current RGB and Backlight levels. Adjust your backlight os it’s at about 50% brightness and click continue to calibration.

17. If it throws any errors about the 8 and 10 bit color difference, just hit ok, I think it’s a bug. It only happened to me once.

18. It will calibrate for 1-2 hours. Just place the computer in a darkish place, away from direct light, and let it do it’s thing. Once done, it will prompt you to install the color profile. Instal it and enjoy

HINT: In the power setting disable idle and screen sleep, for obvious reasons. You don’t want your screen turning off wile it’s calibrated.

https://www.mediafire.com/?l4l715qd9zxz95f

I got the first two display was Samsung. They were too yellow, my third replacement was LG with no IR and no yellow tint so far. Tried my icc profile if you got LG display. It look compelete different too the stock profile. Take your time about 10-15 minutes to get familiar to the new profile, you won't see the differerence in the first couple minute( don't just applied it and say something...then). Mine looked brighter, very good white point and higher constrast.

x0054 wrote:

 

Merch,

 

It’s entirely possible that you can have a screen that’s so out of spec that no amount of calibration would fix it.

 

 

Thanks for your instructions, x0054. I followed them and I made a colour profile. The results are greenish. It looks terrible, as expected.

I took a photograph of my display next to 3 iPads. Comparing it to iPads isn't great but it's the best I can do until I bring it in to an Apple store to take a photograph next to another Retina MacBook Pro. Even looking at the screen by itself it's very green and I won't be using this profile.

If anyone wants to try my profile, here you go. It will turn your display green.

http://merchv.com/Apple/Color%20LCD%202014-01-01%20D6500%202.2%20VF-S%203xCurve+ MTX.icc

I've also updated my folder containing all my colour profiles that I've made myself and that I've gotten from other people. Maybe you can find a colour profile in there to lessen the nauseating sensation you get when you look at your green or yellow or purple or blue or anything-but-white nearly 3,000 dollar computer.

http://merchv.com/Apple/Merch-Colour-Profiles.zip

jedlh wrote:

 

What hw/sw display calibrators do folks here recommend? I've been meaning to play with such gear for yonks.

 

I have a 15" mid-2012 rMBP, I can't recall what wk, I ordered it 16/12/12 & received it just before new yr or shortly after IIRC.

It's a LG panel & it does display the IR issue, although I'm starting to realise it's not really noticeable unless I look hard for it.*

And even when I look hard for it, it's not always there unless the right conditions are met...

 

 

Thank-you.

*& it certanly doesn't seem to have gotten worse (as others here claim) over those 12mth

Lots of posts here since mine, can anyone plz spare a few minutes to directly address mine? (above)

Thank-you.

jedlh wrote:

 

jedlh wrote:

 

What hw/sw display calibrators do folks here recommend? I've been meaning to play with such gear for yonks.

 

I have a 15" mid-2012 rMBP, I can't recall what wk, I ordered it 16/12/12 & received it just before new yr or shortly after IIRC.

It's a LG panel & it does display the IR issue, although I'm starting to realise it's not really noticeable unless I look hard for it.*

And even when I look hard for it, it's not always there unless the right conditions are met...

 

 

Thank-you.

*& it certanly doesn't seem to have gotten worse (as others here claim) over those 12mth

 

Lots of posts here since mine, can anyone plz spare a few minutes to directly address mine? (above)

 

Thank-you.

OK. I recommend buying the Spyder4Elite over the Spyder4Pro or Spyder4Express because the Spyder4Elite will allow you to calibrate up past 6500 up to 9300. Or maybe you want the i1Display Pro made by xrite.com but I haven't tried it. I sure hope the software is better on the i1Display Pro than on the Spyder4. And there have been many reports of initial mild image retention getting severe 10–16 months later so maybe you'll notice the image retention a few months from now. Or maybe not. But I haven't personally dealt with the image retention problem.

Merch, try setting the whitepoint to 6800K and see if that helps. The truth is, most iPads and other screens you see in the stores are much cooler than the 6500K color temprature. I had a slight green tint in the grays at 6500k, but it compleatly dissapeared at 6800k. Your's looks much worse then what I had (based on what I can see in the picture), but bumping the color temprature to 6800k might cut significantly down on the greens.

I am interested because I used Argyll on 2 rMBPs and a 2011 Air with great results. But I also tried it on a 2010 BMP, and got terrible green results, much like yours. I am not sure what the differance is. The 2010 MBP had a perfectly nice, though slightly too cool screen, and it's the one that failed with Argyll+Spyder4.

UPDATE: I also just looked at your profile, it's crazy green indeed. Do you get similar results when using stock Spyder4 software?

x0054 wrote:

 

Merch, try setting the whitepoint to 6800K and see if that helps. The truth is, most iPads and other screens you see in the stores are much cooler than the 6500K color temprature. I had a slight green tint in the grays at 6500k, but it compleatly dissapeared at 6800k. Your's looks much worse then what I had (based on what I can see in the picture), but bumping the color temprature to 6800k might cut significantly down on the greens.

 

I am interested because I used Argyll on 2 rMBPs and a 2011 Air with great results. But I also tried it on a 2010 BMP, and got terrible green results, much like yours. I am not sure what the differance is. The 2010 MBP had a perfectly nice, though slightly too cool screen, and it's the one that failed with Argyll+Spyder4.

If you think you're getting good results then bring your machine in to an Apple store and take a picture with your machine sitting next to another Retina MacBook Pro. I'm not comparing my Retina MacBook Pro to iPads; I'm comparing my current display to the first display I had on my Retina MacBook Pro which looked amazing, and displays at Apple stores which typically look good. Not all Retina MacBook Pro displays are crummy yellow ones like we have now; the good ones are unbelieveable and I got to experience it for a few months until it developed white spots and I got it replaced and now I'm on my third yellow display. I'll try it again at 6800 K but I'm not expecting much. If you start with a display that can't show colours properly you can only expect marginal improvement. Yeah, you can use calibration to make the display look less terrible but it will never look as good as the ones that are good from the start.

x0054 wrote:

 

Spyder4Pro has the added benefit of having an ambient light sensor, but for laptops that feature is a bit moot.

How so?

Can you point to any forums/communites focused around display optimisation hw/sw for the 13-15" rMBP's?

Merch Visoiu wrote:

 

I've also updated my folder containing all my colour profiles that I've made myself and that I've gotten from other people.

http://merchv.com/Apple/Merch-Colour-Profiles.zip

So this incudes all the profiles you've created + most others posted here, does it also include dong's recently posted one?

I downloaded his, but I couldn't see what to do with it.

Merch Visoiu wrote:
 
OK. I recommend buying the Spyder4Elite over the Spyder4Pro or Spyder4Express because the Spyder4Elite will allow you to calibrate up past 6500 up to 9300. Or maybe you want the i1Display Pro made by xrite.com but I haven't tried it. I sure hope the software is better on the i1Display Pro than on the Spyder4. 

I've heard of xrite before too, hmm, how to decide!?!

Methinks I need to find a community that talks exclusively about this stuff, esp. for use on rMBP's!

If anyone knows of any, please advise...

Thank-you.

jedlh wrote:

 

Merch Visoiu wrote:

 

I've also updated my folder containing all my colour profiles that I've made myself and that I've gotten from other people.

 

http://merchv.com/Apple/Merch-Colour-Profiles.zip

 

So this incudes all the profiles you've created + most others posted here, does it also include dong's recently posted one?

I downloaded his, but I couldn't see what to do with it...

OK, I updated the same link with Dong Anh Nguyen's profile named "Apple Retina MacBook Pro-1.icc." To use them, extract the files from Merch-Colour-Profiles.zip and put all the .icc files into ~/Library/ColorSync/Profiles, and then select them from System Preferences > Display > Color. Choosing each one will change the colour of your display slightly but none of them will make the whites look white; each of them will add a different colour cast to your screen so they don't solve the problem just lessen the problem slightly.

Merch Visoiu wrote:

 

Choosing each one will change the colour of your display slightly but none of them will make the whites look white; each of them will add a different colour cast to your screen so they don't solve the problem just lessen the problem slightly.

But I don't have your problem -at least not as bad as it sounds like it is for you.

I don't supose you can address the other points in my posts just above yours?

TY.

jedlh wrote:

 

But I don't have your problem -at least not as bad as it sounds like it is for you.

I don't supose you can address the other points in my posts just above yours?

 

Sometimes we hear from graphics professionals in the context of the display problems with the Retina MacBook Pros but I don't know if they have an online community where they discuss display calibration. They like to buy certain types of display to do their work and the use certain types of calibrators. Was that your question?

What I'm asking is in these 2 posts...

https://discussions.apple.com/message/24345113#24345113

But if you don't know of any resources that's cool, thanks for your help in addressing the other points.

Perhaps others will help with my remaining posts/points.

All the best.