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[GUIDE] Fix iMac flickering and dark screen problems out of warranty

If you have a Late 2009 27" iMac and are having problems with those annoying problems of flickering and parts of your screen are becoming darker (On the left side primary) you may want to consider this easy guide to fix it if you run out of warranty, have no Apple Care and Apple wanted to charge you about $600 to replace your screen. You need no tools and the cost os this procedure is 0.



First Step: Be sure that you are experiencing the same symptoms



This guide is only to resolve flickering and dimming problems on you iMac screen. Primary occurring on the left side (becoming darker or with less brightness than the other side) and on Late 2009 27" iMacs but there are cases of the same problem on later computers too.



Check/Read all of these posts to know if your case is the same:





Thanks to the findings of nicholasfromconfolens we know that the problem resides in some parts of the screen getting loose for any reason (factory problem, heat, whatever) and if you apply pressure at certain point the flickering/dimming/darking disappears. The problem is that you need to maintain that pressure all the time.



Second Step: Find the correct spot to apply pressure



Without removing the glass panel of the iMac, try to press it strong enough (but don't use excessive force or you could break it) near the bottom left part to see if the dark/flickering disappears at some point. If it does, you are lucky, your problem has easy solution and you can proceed to the next step. If not, don't despair, your glass panel may be very strong and you will need to remove it to apply pressure. Head to the next step.



Third Step: Removing the glass panel



It is recommended to use suction cups to make this task more easily but it's not mandatory, you can remove the glass with your hands. The glass panel uses magnets to get in place all around and has some flaps on the bottom part. To remove it you need to hold it from the upper right and left corners and make force towards you, once it get loose just elevate it to remove the bottom flaps from its holes. You can follow these links with guides that clarifies this a bit more:






Fourth Step: Pinpoint the correct spot to press and place something to maintain the pressure



Once the glass panel has been removed, you must find where is the best point to apply pressure to get rid of the dimming/darking/flickering. The most common point is the left side between the rubber band of the screen and the grey band below. (See the photos for better understanding).



Once you find the best spot, you need to place there something to increase the thickness in that point and to maintain pressure when the glass panel is mounted again. I suggest you to use a pair of adhesive strips/pads mounted one over the other made of rubber or textile material that are used to put under furniture (chairs, tables) to prevent them to scratch the floor (I don't know the exact name in English, sorry).



Fifth Step: Mount the glass panel again



Mount the glass panel again and see if the pressure is enough to prevent the problem appearing again. If not, you should dismount the glass panel again and add more thickness to the "critical" spot adding more pads, but beware, add them gradually or the pressure may be excessive and break the glass when you remount it.



Final Step:



Enjoy your "new" screen and the saving of nearly $600 on repair costs.



Here below you can fin some photos and a video of my "set-up" to fix the problem.



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iMac 27" (Late 2009) Flickering And Dark Screen Fix (VIDEO)




I hope this guide helps you. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

iMac, Mac OS X (10.6.4), No tools required

Posted on Jun 19, 2012 8:37 AM

Reply
186 replies

Oct 4, 2013 11:27 PM in response to Fritz S

Fritz S wrote:


I just joined the Apple Support Communities to paste in this email chain (which I had under the subject "Wanna Scream: iMac Total Screen Fark")

...


Sorry, but your post is way too long and confusing. I'm not even sure what your question is. Please consider editing it down to keep this thread on topic, and re-asking as a shorter question if you still have one.

Oct 6, 2013 11:54 PM in response to Kaos2K

Just fixed mine.


***BEFORE YOU TRY SOLDERING, TRY THIS FIRST***


Materials: aluminum tape.


Follow all the other guides to remove the LCD.


Once you're at the point where you can see the connector, lift the two white flaps UP.


It will bend the plastic but now you are able to wiggle/pull out the black connector.


After you have loosened the white flaps, leave the connector EXPOSED from the tape and reassemble the LCD and cables into the housing.


While having all cables still plugged into the housing, power up your monitor so you can see the darkness.


Lift the top of the monitor out slowly, no more than 4 inches (there is a wire behind the top)


What you will do is pull out the top slowly, and then slide the bottom out.


Tuck back the top portion back in and use something to prop the bottom off leaving space for you to tuck your hand in behind the connector. One of the previous posts has a picture of the bottom propped up so you can have a visual.


Now that you've exposed and loosened the connector after lifting the two flaps, you should be able to fiddle with the connector and see where your "sweet spot" is to achieve full brightness on the left dim.


Once you've found that sweet spot, use a long piece of aluminum tape to tape down that orientation. (the sweet spot will be the point where all connections are good)


Reinforce the orientation of the cable and connector with an additional one or two layers of aluminum tape.


Now press on all areas of the tape so that it conforms to the shape of the cables/connector.


Press on all areas of the cable and connector portion to make sure you no longer see any changes in brightness or flickering.


I like to put additional square layers on the connector portion itself to make sure it is resistant to shaking/handling in the future.


If all is well, you should have a pretty stable fix without the need or risk of soldering.


*** TIP ***

* when looking for the sweet spot, I realized my screen would not light up because the connector was in too deep. I had to pull the black connector slightly up and away from the board to achieve full brightness. I then tugged on the cable tightly to apply pressure/tension to maintain that orientation and connection. I applied tape thereafter.


BEST OF LUCK AND I HOPE THIS HELPS EVERYONE!

Oct 27, 2013 5:21 PM in response to Kaos2K

Great thread, thanks to all.


I have a quick question. I have a 2011 27’’ iMac, the screen being a lM270WQ1 (E3).

I see there are quite a few lM270WQ1 (A2) screens on Ebay at a good price, I believe they have been pulled from 2009 iMac’s. Would a lM270WQ1 (A2) LCD from 2009 be compatible with and be able to replace a lM270WQ1 (E3) from a 2011 iMac?


My story:


About a year after purchase, my LCD started flickering, followed by the left side darkness that everyone else is experiencing. I do have Apple care, and brought the system in for service. Unfortunately they refused to service it as I had the iMac modified by Other World Computing. I had them install a 2nd SSD hard drive, and an External SATA port. Arguing with the store on the phone got me no where. I called the main Apple support line, and after they researched the issue, told me that they could not repair the unit as their policy is to restore it to its original factory condition, and in this case it was impossible. Again, I couldn’t change their minds.


Other world computing are a little vague, but point to a certain consumer rights law that the modification shouldn’t invalidate the warranty. I wished I hadn’t believed that, and I highly recommend that no-one should use their Turn Key program unless their warranty is up.


Anyhow, its now 6 months later, and the issue was getting worse. Pressing on the LCD frame in the button left fixes the problem for a second or two, so that plug is def the issue. Following the advice on this thread, I pulled the LCD with the hope that a simple push would fix the issue. Not to be. After detaching the plug, plugging it back in and wiggling it around, the dark side is now permanent. I don’t have the skill to do the soldering unfortunately. So..my options are to buy a new LCD from Ebay, or perhaps get a 27’’ Ultrasharp LCD from Dell and run it via Display Port.


Anyhow, and help with my above question would be much appreciated. Cheers!

Oct 28, 2013 9:43 AM in response to R3kl355

Yep, resoldering is the only way that monitor will ever work again. And from my experience calling a bunch of repair shops before I decided to do it myself, you won't find anyone willing to do it, at leat not for less than the cost of a replacement monitor.


Indeed, I think your best bet for now is buying a replacement monitor on ebay. Unfortunately I think you may need to find an exact match. I don't have time to find it right now, but somewhere on these forums there is a thread that discusses the difference and the fact that there may be slightly different cable connectors on the motherboard for different model years. I'll find it later tonight. How much are you seeing monitors for?


Why do I say "for now"? I think we should look into the possibility of a class action lawsuit for this issue. I have a few ideas for doing that that I'm going to pursue, but if anyone has more ideas please chime in.

Oct 28, 2013 12:02 PM in response to FlunkedFlank

Thanks FlunkedFlank.


Ok, ill go with what you say, and keep my eye out for an E3 monitor. At the moment, the A2’s are quite cheap, but the E3’s are still quite expensive, and also difficult to source. I did come across that thread regarding the different cable connectors a while ago, ill look it up again.

Amount wise, as of OCT 28 2013 in United States Currency:

A2 replacement screens are at about 20% of one thousand.

E3’s at 50% if you find one.

Full monitors, a 27’’ matte Dell Ultrasharp is at about 60%

From Monoprice a glossy 27’’ is about 45%

All in for the class action, heh.

Oct 28, 2013 2:14 PM in response to R3kl355

I think I have mentioned this before on this forum, but I had this on my 2011 iMac 27in. I tried all the bodged fixes and it was never sorted.


I eventually found a company here in the UK (in Canterbury) called The iT Store who I sent my iMac to. They stripped down the iMac and resoldered the LCD. Since then I haven't had a problem at all with it, and there's no need to stuff card in any corners or try any wiring myself. It is as good as new and they gave a 6 month warranty anyway. It cost me £200 a few months ago, but I had an email from them last week with a new price of £150 if you ship or drop off yourself, or £200 and they pay for the courier to collect and return from a UK address. They are VAT registered, so I was able to put this through my business to bring the cost down further.


They also cleaned the iMac all out to reduce the chance of it happening again. It was collected and returned again within a week. Nice bunch as well, very friendly and helpful.


Google The iT Store in Canterbury. Very recommended, at a fraction of the cost of a new LCD!


I hope Apple don't remove this for advertising, I'm simply recommending as a happy customer!

Oct 28, 2013 10:05 PM in response to Chesron

Thanks Chesron.


Good news for those in the UK, though im unfortunately (heh) in the US. Ill have a look around on Yelp and see if there are any businesses that are willing and able, perhaps I may get lucky at one of the more full featured phone / iPad repair places or perhaps some place that already does work involving LCD's. Im assuming that these places usually just swap components in and out to complete their repairs, but you never know.

Oct 29, 2013 4:56 PM in response to R3kl355

Regarding the repairs in the UK for £200, that's about the same price as a certain listing on ebay (in the US) of a place that will replace the LCD with a guaranteed working used LCD, and according to the listing they'll fix all model "A1312" iMacs, which is 2009-2011 models. The listing is from "irepairapple" and the cost is $350. (I found them a while back before I decided to fix it myself.) The only thing is that you have to send them the full Mac and they send it back. I guess they don't want to just send the replacement LCD for quality control reasons.


Or wait and see if there's any breaking news regarding Apple recognizing the problem. I'll try this again more delicately: there's an article about a lawsuit for this on the macrumors web site.

Oct 30, 2013 11:21 AM in response to Kaos2K

My 2011 27" imac started to develop problems 14 months after I bought it. It began with grey smudges appearing in the top left and top right hand corner of the screen.

About a month later it developed the left hand side going dark grey problem.


No response from Apple, didn't really expect it as it was out of warranty and foolishly no Applecare.

I tried all the suggestions here on the is thread, I couldn't get anyone to attempt the soldering.


Eventualy I had to buy a new E3 Panel from a place in China.


While I was opening up the Mac I fitted an SSD. The screen is great, the SSD makes it a really fast machine. But I can imagine Apple wouldnt want anything to do with it as I've opened it up. (My iMac is one the of the machines that are elibigible for a video card replacement, there's nothing wrong with it at the moment but who knows what could happen next time I turn it on?)


It will be intersting to see the outcome of the class action suit filed recently about this problem.

[GUIDE] Fix iMac flickering and dark screen problems out of warranty

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