Which drive are you sure is good?
Have you tried it without the USB drive plugged in?
Have you done, or can you do a PRAM reset, CMD+Option+p+r...
Does it boot to Single User Mode, CMD+s keys at bootup, if so try...
Repeat until it shows no errors fixed.
(Space between fsck AND -fy important).
Resolve startup issues and perform disk maintenance with Disk Utility and fsck...
Thank you very muh for this help. I'm not at the. Emac right now but I have tried command option p r and nothing happens. All of the USB ports power my little flash drives light, but if I plug in the keyboard and hit caps lock or test the USB ports on the keyboard I get nothing. And the eject button won't work on the keyboard or on the dick drive itself. And I get no sound at startup except for the fan. There is memory installed but it is the origional memory.
guys thanks for helping me. ok so first nothing i do with a keyboard makes any difference. and when i opened it for the first time i found tht the led light had been disconnected, so i re connected it. it does not light up from what i can see. it seem that the power is going to the board but not to any of the things that are pluged into the board. is this possible?
If you eMac has a 1.25Ghz processor, see if its serial number falls in any of these ranges (but do not post your serial number here):
- G8412xxxxxx- G8520xxxxxx
- YM412xxxxxx - YM520xxxxxx
- VM440xxxxxx - VM516xxxxxx
Units in those number ranges had a near-fatal logic board problem that, today, is hard to justify the expense of fixing.* The problem was covered by an Apple Repair Extension Program (REP) but it expired about three years ago. The ONLY eMacs affected were the 1.25gHz units and a handful of 1ghz models with the later USB 2.0 logic board that were built for education-only distribution. However, some have made it into the consumer market as schools surplused the older eMac when they bought newer computers. Still, the serial number ranges above apply to the edu-modles.
This Apple article shows how to find the serial number:
Note the irony of the fact that the image of the serial number sticker Apple posted on its web site shows that computer is within the affected range.
Another thing: if your eMac was purchased as a factory refurb, it will have a different serial number starting with "R" or RM" and the above list won't help. We may have to delve farther to see if you have the logic board curse.
If you eMac is affected, the only good new is that the hard drive was seldom compromised by the problem so you can remove the drive to salvage important data.
*---if you live within driving distance of Eugene, Oregon USA, there may be a most cost-effective solution.
ok so i know it was bought new, and its a g4. the harddrive was fine, i took it out and got the stuff off of it for the person who i get computers from. i think it may be that somewhere along the line theres a problem with a circuit for the power to leave the main board. but its wierd because where it wont power the origional keyboard tht came with it it will power a usb stick to make the light on it light up. Actually right when i first hit the power button the caps lock light in the keyboard will light up for just a second, but then it stops and the keyboard does zip.
it seem that the power is going to the board but not to any of the things that are pluged into the board. is this possible?
There is power going to a few things like your fan but electricity alone does not make a computer.
If the LED connection is sound ? (why would anyone play around with disconnecting that?) then its failure to glow would suggest a failure of the Power On Setup Test (POST), which is pretty fundamental. Also no startup chime is bad news indicating it fails the POST.
I think your logic board (BootROM) is defunct.
If after trying BDAqua's suggestions to no avail, this eMac could be at the end of the road.