I use SmugMug, and use its template. If I were doing it over, I would consider letting SmugMug host my own domain to show photos, but with over a hundred galleries presently, it does not make sense for me to start over.
But I think customizing in general, and especially with your own domain hosted by them, should provide good results.
SmugMug was a lot better for me than MobileMe, btw, due to its working well with various operating systems, monitor sizes and even iOS devices.
I've gone all around the horn and I'm really not impressed with anyone. I might even use wordpress and pay a developer to snazz up the CSS.
I'm not sold that paying the extra cash to even have e-commerce enabled is worth it. Can anyone speak to whether they have sold anything off stock or prints to make it worthwhile ?
I'm thinking of just having my visual site up on Wpress for hiring and delivering everything off Picasa.
Zenfolio I am looking at but the pricepoint again, is really crazy for what they offer.