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Need help identifying Apple Wireless Mouse

I was given a PowerBook G4 laptop at a recent Mac user group meeting. My plan for the computer is to donate the laptop and the parts and pieces given to me to a local agency. The agency will then give it so some family that needs but can't afford a computer.


The computer came with Tiger, and I have the disks. But the (presumed) original owner has installed 10.5 Leopard and I have the disk for that.


In looking around Apple, I think this is a bluetooth version of the Mighty Mouse. But I've been unable to locate a photo that matches this mouse.


It looks like a Mighty Mouse on the outside, but remove the battery cover and it doesn't match any photo and/or manual I've found.


At the end of the mouse where the sliding switch/LED cover is located, and under the cover, there is a sliding switch marked + and -. On the batt cover, the Model is A1015 but a search has returned 0 results. 😟


I assume that to turn the mouse on, you slide the cover to expose the LED light. And, the light should turn on. But, it doesn't. The batteries are good.


In looking at the mouse, I think the sliding cover should depress what I'll call a switch, ahen when I manually depress the switch, the LED turns on, and is discovered. Without the light on, the computer will not discover the mouse. After discovery, and continuing to hold the switch down to keep the LED on, the mouse will not pair up to the computer. Just for FYI, I get the same results trying to pair to my iMac with Snow Leopard 10.6.8.


Which leaves me with the following questions:

  • Is this a Mighty Mouse?
  • Is there a manual and/or photo of this mouse somewhere?
  • Should the red LED turn on when the sliding cover exposes the LED?
  • Will it only work with Tiger?
  • Is there something small that is missing from the battery cover that would depress the switch properly?
  • Does it only work with Tiger?
  • What does the switch with the + and - do?


  • Ken

    Posted on Aug 23, 2012 8:13 PM

    Reply
    12 replies

    Aug 24, 2012 5:55 AM in response to snowshed

    User uploaded file

    This is an early model A1015 Apple wireless, optical mouse. It uses a bluetooth radio to communicate with the Mac.

    The + and - reference are the battery terminal hints for the two AA size batteries.

    Once you slide open the optical port, the lights emit no visible light, though on my later model mouse, there is a green led

    that indicates the mouse is on.


    Bluetooth mice need to "pair" with the host computer to be usable. In System Preferences, you start this process by clicking on Bluetooth preferences.

    Aug 24, 2012 6:34 AM in response to twtwtw

    Hi, twtwtw,


    What an amazing thing it can be just to talk to someone about a problem. 🙂


    twtwtw wrote:


    googling Apple mouse A1015 gives me a lot of results. is this what you're looking at? you'll have to post an image of that +/- 'switch', because I have no idea what you're talking about.

    In the link you posted, the right hand image is the mouse I have. After tracking down the image, it's from an eBay sale with a good pic of the switch. http://viewitem.eim.ebay.no/APPLE-Bluetooth-Optical-Wireless-Mouse-A1015/2207445 31909/item/index.en-US.html


    When I saw the note in the sale about no battery cover, and using a piece of paper to keep the switch turned on, that solved problems here. I'd been cussing the Apple engineers about the design of the cover, it didn't want to easily be removed. Then I remembered a piece of metal floating in the computer case the laptop came in. Sure enough, it's both a spring to make the cover easily removeable, as well as activate the switch (replaces the paper in the eBay ad) in the mouse when the slide switch is moved in the battery cover.


    Put everything thing together with fresh batteries, and it connected and paired up and worked!


    The flat spring will not stay attached to the battery cover. Looks to be a manufacturing defect of melting the plastic "pins" to retain the spring to the cover, or originally it was a press fit of the spring over the pins. Got any suggestions how to permanently attach the spring? I have an idea to try, but would appreciate feedback that might be better than my idea. Tape is not an option. 🙂


    So I'm most of the way home. No manual for this particular mouse, and I still don't know what the switch at the end of the mouse does. The eBay photo has the switch slid to the + side, I have this switch slid to the - side.



    Just a comment on the mouse link you gave me... I have Javascript and other things disabled, and the encoding of the full URLs irritate me any more. Plus the animation of watching things typed into Google was fun the first couple of times I saw it, but now it wastes my time. I wonder how long that takes to happen for those like my neighbors who are still on dialup. They don't switch from dialup for budgetary reasons, if you get my meaning. 🙂


    Just something for you to consider when offering help. Please don't stop offering the help, though.

    Aug 24, 2012 6:40 AM in response to VikingOSX

    Hi, VikingOSX,


    I can't tell for sure, but I don't think the mouse in the photo has the buttons on the side like the mouse I have does. So, I'm guessing the photo is the old one button mouse, and I have a 4 button mouse. 😁


    I suspect the + and - you refer to are the molded battery orientation indicators underneath the batteries. Those indicators are not what I was referring to.


    Please read my reply to twtwtw, if you haven't already, for additional updates.

    Aug 24, 2012 7:52 AM in response to snowshed

    well, without having it in hand I can't really see how it's supposed to attach or what exactly it does. it looks like they can be taken apart - there's a teardown of a different model at ifixit.com, which you might be able to adapt. The thing at the top (between the +/-) looks more like a latch than a switch to me. is it holding the bottom plate in place? I think the +/- bit really is just a guide for battery installation. if attaching the the piece of metal is just a matter of broken pins, though, you could try super-gluing it in place.


    and no matter what you say, tape is always an option. 🙂


    With respect to the link... did you seriously keep hitting that link and sitting through the sarcasimation, rather than typing the words into a new google window yourself? Heck, you could have copy/pasted the text instead of typing it, or bookmarked the resulting google page for future reference, or..., or... Dude.


    It seems to me that you are suffering from a chronic case of missing-the-point. The first time you clicked that link it was me wasting your time; my bad, but gotcha, laughs all around. Any time you clicked it after that you knew what was going to happen, so you were wasting your own time. You're complaining that your time is being wasted because you just won't google it yourself - what am I supposed to do with that except 😁 ?

    Aug 24, 2012 9:53 AM in response to twtwtw

    Hi, twtwtw,

    well, without having it in hand I can't really see how it's supposed to attach or what exactly it does.

    Photos of the battery cover and spring disasembled and assembled.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/lpw15yseg0a5w2m/Battery%20cover%20unassembled.jpg

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/56sbnv31usewthr/Battery%20cover%20assembled.jpg


    I just have the pieces laying in the correct position, no permanent repair. Would have simply thrown them on the scanner, but the all-in-one unit with scanner that was installed was removed yesterday to be donated with the laptop mentioned in my original post.


    The round end of the spring pops the battery cover off when the latch is released. The other end depresses the switch in the mouse when the slide in the battery cover is moved.

    it looks like they can be taken apart - there's a teardown of a different model at ifixit.com, which you might be able to adapt.

    The wired version of a mouse similar in construction to that unit came with my iMac. When the trackball stopped scrolling, I found out you had to end up using Super Glue to reassemble, and that's no way to design a product, IMO. But, I always hated that mouse, it didn't fit my hand, and typing on the keyboard reminds me of the horrible "chiclet" keypads of yesteryear, and I replaced both with an old Apple Pro keyboard and a Microsoft USB wireless mouse that actually fit my hand!!! What a concept! 😀

    The thing at the top (between the +/-) looks more like a latch than a switch to me. is it holding the bottom plate in place?

    There is the proverbial Tab A on the cover that fits into Slot B on the mouse, but the the sliding thing does nothing to affect the tab/slot that I can determine. Possibly, it may control the amount of movement vertically you apply to get a "mouse press", but at the moment I've not tested that theory.

    I think the +/- bit really is just a guide for battery installation.

    "Illogical", as Mr. Spock would say. The orientation of the +/- is 90º to the battery installation. And both batteries are installed with the + end towards this end of the mouse.

    if attaching the the piece of metal is just a matter of broken pins, though, you could try super-gluing it in place.

    Super glue was my first thought, but spring steel is hard to get liquid type adhesives to adhere to. I also thought of using Gorilla Glue, if you're familiar with it. It's hard to find stuff that Gorilla Glue won't bond to with some degree of success.


    I dug out my freestanding magnifier, and it almost looks like the "pins" probably had an upper, smaller in dia. part, that may have been melted over the spring to hold the spring in place.

    and no matter what you say, tape is always an option. 🙂

    LOL! Hope that was a joke for real, as that never an option for my repairs. If done, it's cheap and cheezy, as if you don't care what kind of workmanship you have.

    With respect to the link... did you seriously keep hitting that link and sitting through the sarcasimation, rather than typing the words into a new google window yourself? Heck, you could have copy/pasted the text instead of typing it, or bookmarked the resulting google page for future reference, or..., or...

    To start with, Google is almost never my search engine of first choice. Why? I've not trusted them with anything since they were caught violating privacy issues, more than once. My first choices are DuckDuckGo, Startpage, and IxQuick, because those search engines do not track your searches and surfing habits. Where I go and what I do is no one's business. I don't want that info given/sold/stolen by marketers, spammers, scammers, hackers, et. al.


    Startpage and IxQuick appear to be from the same folks.


    So I have all the trackers blocked as best as possible, Javascript disabled, etc., which makes getting the encrypted URL to work is, well, extra work. 😀 Simply copying and pasting the encrypted URL is therefore blocked. I see no value other than shorter typed links in email, forums, newsgroups, etc. to the shortened links, plus making bucks for the folks at TinyURL and others that create them for you. And of course, they are tracking you to.


    So, as you may have guessed by now, I do not use Safari. <grin>


    I didn't plan on doing it more than once, but had to when you replied. And I've already got too ****** many bookmarks. 😀

    Dude.

    And I'm neither a Dude or Dudette. But been online before there was a world wide web, and a 1200 baud modem was state of the art.

    It seems to me that you are suffering from a chronic case of missing-the-point. The first time you clicked that link it was me wasting your time; my bad, but gotcha, laughs all around.

    Did not miss the point, and I am not laughing. Wasting the time of your friends is one thing, wasting the time of strangers is simply bad manners.

    Any time you clicked it after that you knew what was going to happen, so you were wasting your own time. You're complaining that your time is being wasted because you just won't google it yourself - what am I supposed to do with that except 😁 ?

    I will plead guilty to assuming that Apple would have documentation on their own website, n'cest-ce pas? (To save you some Googling and unencrypting URLs, http://www.yourdictionary.com/n-est-ce-pas) If Apple had the info on their site, the seach engine would/should have found that link, and I would than have wasted my time with a Google search when it shouldn't have been necessary. I learned a long time ago, to always, always check the mfgr.'s site first for the correct information.

    Aug 24, 2012 10:44 AM in response to snowshed

    snowshed wrote:


    The round end of the spring pops the battery cover off when the latch is released. The other end depresses the switch in the mouse when the slide in the battery cover is moved.


    Super glue was my first thought, but spring steel is hard to get liquid type adhesives to adhere to. I also thought of using Gorilla Glue, if you're familiar with it. It's hard to find stuff that Gorilla Glue won't bond to with some degree of success.


    I dug out my freestanding magnifier, and it almost looks like the "pins" probably had an upper, smaller in dia. part, that may have been melted over the spring to hold the spring in place.


    Well, the only credible suggestion I can offer is to find a small, thin piece of hard plastic to lay across the top of the bar right where the pins are - that way you can glue plastic to plastic to make a cross brace that will hold the bar in place, and it won't matter whether the superglue adheres to the metal. I don't know what the clearances are on the inside, so that might not be feasible, but...


    snowshed wrote:


    I'm neither a Dude or Dudette.


    Did not miss the point, and I am not laughing. Wasting the time of your friends is one thing, wasting the time of strangers is simply bad manners.


    Then I hereby christen you a Dudle!. Though properly speaking 'Dude' is gender-neutral in parlance, so this rhetorical move isn't really necessary. Happy to oblige, though.


    And to the last, that's ok: I'm laughing for the both of us. 😉

    Aug 24, 2012 5:10 PM in response to twtwtw

    Hi, twtwtw,

    Well, the only credible suggestion I can offer is to find a small, thin piece of hard plastic to lay across the top of the bar right where the pins are - that way you can glue plastic to plastic to make a cross brace that will hold the bar in place, and it won't matter whether the superglue adheres to the metal. I don't know what the clearances are on the inside, so that might not be feasible, but...

    That's an idea I hadn't thought of. Clearances won't be a problem if a piece of plastic is available. The pins are directly over the gap between the batteries.


    Not sure that I have any plastic that thing, nor of a type that glues easily. Unfortunately, not all plastics glue easily. 😟

    Then I hereby christen you a Dudle!. Though properly speaking 'Dude' is gender-neutral in parlance, so this rhetorical move isn't really necessary. Happy to oblige, though.


    And to the last, that's ok: I'm laughing for the both of us. 😉

    For which, good manners would dictate otherwise.

    Aug 28, 2012 8:00 AM in response to snowshed

    Follow up


    The Gorilla Glue idea seems to have worked perfectly, and with some tweaking of the end of the spring to fully depress the on/off switch, it seems to be working fine. And no more frustration getting the cover off.


    For posterity, or any one interested, this is how I glued the spring to the cover:

  • Obviously, the surfaces must be clean. 😉
  • Put a drop of Gorilla Glue on a piece of paper.
  • Using a small applicator, something the size of a round toothpick, place as small a drop of Gorilla Glue as you can on the tip of each pin.
  • Place the spring over the pins, and press the spring on to the cover as tight as you can, forcing the Gorilla Glue to extrude through the holes in the spring.
  • Apply another small drop to the tip of each pin.
  • Allow to dry for 24 hours.
  • Warning: Gorilla Glue expands as it hardens. I had a concern the spring may be pushed away from the cover as it dried, but fortunately that didn't happen.


    Still do not know what that slide with the +/- is supposed to do. I don't detect any change in sensitivity.

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