Level 1

5 points

Anyone still having IOS 6 wifi issues?

I'm currently waiting on Apple support to call me back about this issue, but I thought I would reach out here to see if anyone else is having similar issues.

I upgraded to IOS 6 yesterday afternoon, and immediately after I could no longer connect to the Wifi at my place of employment. Everyone had this issue, no big deal.

Went home, Wifi worked fine.

Came into work this morning and I am still unable to connect. I have tried all of the various recommended fixes, and even gone so far as to do a complete restore. I work at a university with multiple networks and access points and have tried connecting to several, both secure and unsecure, with no luck.

This is what happens:

Unsecure Networks: Attempt to connect, wheel spins, Error Message: "Unable to Connect"

Secure Network: Attempt to connect, prompted for password, enter password, Error Message: "Incorrect Password" (Yes I entered the correct password, I tried multiple times, and the IT tech was able to connect to it with his iPad 2 running IOS 5)

I am also not the only one, everyone on campus who has upgraded their iPad 3 to IOS 6 is unable to connect. (All staff/factulty have iPads, most have upgraded)

I have spoken with the IT department and they are baffled, they have tried rebooting various routers and access points to no avail.

Obviously there is something different happening in IOS 6 that is causing these issues. My question is has anyone else encoutered this issue, and if so what have you done to fix it?

I have seen people above who have upgraded firmware on their personal wireless routers with success, but for a university with literally hundress of access points and routers this is out of the question, at least in the short term.

iPad (3rd gen) Wi-Fi, iOS 6

Posted on Sep 20, 2012 9:39 AM

1,541 replies

Oct 1, 2012 8:25 AM in response to AxL917

This is perfectly ridiculous. My iPad 2 and 3 and iPhone 4s and 5 can't hold a connection on my home network. Like many, I am a completely apple household with an iMac, 2 Macbook Pros, 3 iPads (1, 2, and 3) and 3 iPhones (4, 4s, 5) that are all networked through an Airport Extreme.

Seriously Apple. My current situation feels like I'm running my old linksys, or dlink routers that I had so much trouble with.

I was thrilled for the new "features" and little did I know one of the major "features" was dropping a wifi connection continuously.

So much for my Apple products that "just worked." I was completely converted but now I'm reconsidering as Apple no longer "just works" and they are very difficult to fix.

RIP Steve Jobs if anyone ever doubted the impact you had on the consumer level for this major corporation, they don't now.

Oct 1, 2012 9:45 AM in response to clemon85

This is just a thought and no solution.

I have been following these posts about the wifi problem. I noticed that almost all the people who are having these problems are using the English/American version of IOS 6 ( download ios 6 and chose your native language).

In my country, the Netherlands, most people are using the Dutch language in IOS 6. On similar Dutch forums there is hardly any discussion about wifi problems, so there seems to be no wifi issue.

In the Dutch, and some more non English ios 6 systems there is no possibility to use Siri.

Could this be the reason they are not having this wifi issue?

peterwillem

ASFMon

Level 1

0 points

Oct 1, 2012 10:23 AM in response to clemon85

I'm having the same issue on my new iPad, extraordinarily slow speeds on WiFi. Has Apple acknowledged they are working on the problem?

revealjt

Level 1

0 points

Oct 1, 2012 10:42 AM in response to clemon85

I have two iPad2 both recently updated to IOS 6, one the WIFI works fine and the other requires that I reinput the hexadecimal password each time I log on to our home network. Its very frustrating

Oct 1, 2012 10:53 AM in response to clemon85

I'm having the same issue connecting to wifi on both my iPhone 5 and iPad 3.

Extremely frustrated apple customer here! Can't use my iPad now unless I want to use it as a digital picture frame! :/

When I try to connect to my home internet, it will work for about five mins before it affects all other devices trying to connect to the same wifi connection. The only way I have been able to restore wifi connectivity to my laptop is by resetting my router and turning wifi off on all my iOS 6 idevices.

Never would have thought an upgrade such a crippling impact on my devices.

Oct 1, 2012 10:55 AM in response to AxL917

In my household, my sister's iPad and my wife's iPhone5 couldn't connect to our WPA2 secured WiFi even though an older 3GS as well as my Windows and Android devices could connect just fine. None of the "solutions" offered online worked. My only workaround was to setup a 2nd access point configured with WEP security - only then did the affected devices connect. What is so ironic is that as a Windows IT Support guy myself I had my wife and sister using Apple devices because of their ease of use. Go figure.

Oct 1, 2012 11:21 AM in response to clemon85

Here you go, this is the settings which users of Apple Base stations use that may help anyone with their configuration issues. You should consider these settings a a guide and refer to the product documentation or manufacturer's website if not using an Apple Base Station.

http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4199#

I included the link below.

iOS: Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points

Summary

The following Wi-Fi base station (or Wi-Fi router) settings are recommended for all iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch devices. These settings will help ensure maximum performance, security, and reliability when using Wi-Fi.

Wi-Fi base stations are 802.11a/b/g/n access points that include AirPort Extreme Base Stations, AirPort Express, and Time Capsule. "Wi-Fi router" is a generic term and includes Wi-Fi base stations and third-party 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi access points.

less

Products Affected

AirPort, iPad, iPhone, iPod touch

Before configuring or adjusting specific settings, perform the following steps:

Ensure that your Wi–Fi router's firmware is up to date.
If you are using a Wi–Fi base station, refer to this article for information on how to update it.
Verify that all Wi–Fi devices you intend to use support the settings recommended in this article.
If possible, back up your current Wi–Fi router's settings.
If necessary, refer to the product documentation or manufacturer's website.
Forget or remove the Wi-Fi settings for your network from any devices that connect to your Wi-Fi router. (This will prevent the devices from attempting to connect to your network with the old configuration.) You will need to reconnect these devices to your network once you've finished applying the new settings.

Configure all Wi–Fi base stations on the same network with the same settings. Not doing so will cause connectivity and reliability issues. On dual-band Wi–Fi base stations, configure both bands to have the same settings unless otherwise noted below.

Use the following settings for maximum performance, security, and reliability.

SSID (Service Set Identifier—Wi-Fi network name)
Set to	Any unique name.
Description	The SSID, or network name, identifies your Wi-Fi network to users and other Wi-Fi devices. It is case sensitive.
More details	Choose a name that is unique to your network and is not shared by other nearby networks or other networks you are likely to encounter. If your router came with a default SSID (network name), it is especially important that you change it to a different, unique name. Some common default SSID names to avoid are "linksys", "netgear", "NETGEAR", "dlink", "wireless", "2wire", and "default", but there are others. If your SSID is not unique, Wi-Fi devices will have trouble identifying your network. This could cause them to fail to automatically connect to your network, or to connect to other networks sharing the same SSID. In addition, it may prevent Wi-Fi devices from using all base stations in your network (if you have more than one Wi-Fi base station), or prevent them from using all available bands (if you have a dual-band Wi-Fi base station).

Hidden network
Set to	Disabled
Description	Hidden networks don't broadcast their SSID over Wi-Fi. This option may also be incorrectly referred to as a "closed" network, and the corresponding nonhidden state may be referred to as "broadcast" or "open".
More details	Because hidden networks don't broadcast their SSID, it is more difficult for devices to find them, which can result in increased connection time and can reduce the reliability of auto-connection. Note that hiding a network doesn't secure your Wi-Fi network, because the SSID is still available through other mechanisms. Security is enforced by a different setting (see Security below).

MAC address authentication or filtering
Set to	Disabled
Description	Restricts access to a Wi-Fi router to devices with specific MAC (Media Access Control) addresses.
More details	When enabled, this feature allows a user to configure a list of MAC addresses for the Wi-Fi router, and restrict access to only devices with addresses that are in the list. Devices with MAC addresses not in the list will fail to associate to the Wi-Fi network. Unfortunately, device MAC addresses can be easily changed, so this cannot be relied upon to prevent unauthorized access to the network. Security should be enforced by a different setting (see Security below).

Security
Set to	WPA2 Personal (AES)
Description	The security setting controls the type of authentication and encryption used by your Wi-Fi router. This setting allows you to control access to your wireless network, as well as to specify the level of privacy you'd like to have for data you send over the air.
More details	WPA2 Personal (AES) is currently the strongest form of security offered by Wi-Fi products, and is recommended for all uses. When enabling WPA2, be sure to select a strong password, one that cannot be guessed by third parties. If you have older Wi-Fi devices on your network that don't support WPA2 Personal (AES), a good second choice is WPA/WPA2 Mode (often referred to as WPA Mixed Mode). This mode will allow newer devices to use the stronger WPA2 AES encryption, while still allowing older devices to connect with older WPA TKIP-level encryption. If your Wi-Fi router doesn't support WPA/WPA2 Mode, WPA Personal (TKIP) mode is the next best choice. Note that the use of WEP is not recommended for compatibility, reliability, performance, and security reasons; WEP is insecure and functionally obsolete. However, if you must support legacy WEP devices and you have a newer (802.11n) Wi-Fi router, you may be able to select the WEP Transitional Security Network (WEP TSN) security mode. This mode will allow legacy WEP clients to join your network with WEP encryption while allowing newer devices to use more modern and secure encryption modes, such as WPA TKIP or WPA2 AES. If WEP TSN mode is not supported, then WEP128 with Shared Authentication should be used (with a single WEP key in key index 1). For compatibility reasons, WEP128 networks should use 13-character ASCII passwords. For reference, "None" or unsecured mode, provides no authentication or encryption. If you use this security mode, anyone will be able to join your Wi-Fi network, use your Internet connection, or access any shared resource on your network. In addition, anyone will be able to read any traffic you send over the network. For these reasons, this security mode is not recommended. Note: Due to serious security weaknesses, the WEP and WPA TKIP encryption methods are deprecated and strongly discouraged. These modes should be used only if it is necessary to support legacy Wi-Fi devices that don't support WPA2 AES and cannot be upgraded to support WPA2 AES. Devices using these deprecated encryption methods will not be able to take full advantage of 802.11n performance and other features. Due to these issues the Wi-Fi Alliance has directed the Wi-Fi industry to phase out WEP and WPA TKIP.

2.4 GHz Radio Mode
Set to	802.11b/g/n
Description	This setting controls which versions of the 802.11a/b/g/n standard the network uses for wireless communication on the 2.4 GHz band. Newer standards (802.11n) support faster transfer rates, and older standards provide compatibility with older devices and additional range.
More details	Routers that support 802.11n should be configured for 802.11b/g/n for maximum speed and compatibility. Routers that only support 802.11g should be put in 802.11b/g mode, while those that support only 802.11b can be left in 802.11b mode. Different Wi-Fi routers support different radio modes, so the exact setting will vary depending on the Wi-Fi router in use. In general, enable support for all modes. Devices will then automatically select the fastest commonly supported mode to communicate. Note that choosing a subset of the available modes will prevent some devices from connecting (for example, 802.11b/g devices will be unable to connect to a Wi-Fi router in 802.11n-only mode). In addition, choosing a subset of the available modes may cause interference with nearby legacy networks, and may cause nearby legacy devices to interfere with your network.

5 GHz Radio Mode
Set to	802.11a/n
Description	This setting controls which versions of the 802.11a/b/g/n standard the network uses for wireless communication on the 5 GHz band. Newer standards support faster transfer rates, and older standards provide compatibility with older devices and additional range.
More details	Routers that support 802.11n should be configured for 802.11a/n mode for maximum speed and compatibility. Routers that only support 802.11a can be left in 802.11a mode. Different Wi-Fi routers support different radio modes, so the exact setting will vary depending on the Wi-Fi router in use. In general, enable support for all modes. Devices will then automatically select the fastest commonly supported mode to communicate. Note that choosing a subset of the available modes will prevent older devices from connecting (for example, 802.11a devices will be unable to connect to a Wi-Fi router in 802.11n-only mode). In addition, choosing a subset of the available modes may cause interference with nearby legacy networks, and may cause nearby legacy devices to interfere with your network.

Channel
Set to	Auto
Description	This setting controls which channel your Wi-Fi router will use to communicate. "Auto" allows the Wi-Fi router to select the best channel automatically. You can also manually select a channel.
More details	For best performance, choose "Auto" mode and let the Wi-Fi router select the best channel. If this mode is not supported by your Wi-Fi router, you will need to manually select a channel. You should pick a channel that is free from other Wi-Fi routers and other sources of interference. Refer to this article for information about possible sources of interference.

2.4 GHz channel width
Set to	20 MHz
Description	Channel width controls how large a "pipe" is available to transfer data. However, larger channels are more subject to interference and more prone to interfere with other devices. A 40 MHz channel is sometimes referred to as a wide channel, with 20 MHz channels referred to as narrow channels.
More details	Use 20 MHz channels in the 2.4 GHz band. Using 40 MHz channels in the 2.4 GHz band can cause performance and reliability issues with your network, especially in the presence of other Wi-Fi networks and other 2.4 GHz devices. 40 MHz channels may also cause interference and issues with other devices that use this band, such as Bluetooth devices, cordless phones, neighboring Wi-Fi networks, and so on. Note that not all routers support 40 MHz channels, especially in the 2.4 GHz band. If they are not supported, the router will use 20 MHz channels.

5 GHz channel width
Set to	Both 20 MHz and 40 MHz
Description	Channel width controls how large a "pipe" is available to transfer data. However, larger channels are more subject to interference, and more prone to interfere with other devices. Interference is less of an issue in the 5 GHz band. A 40 MHz channel is sometimes referred to as a wide channel, with 20 MHz channels referred to as narrow channels.
More details	For best performance and reliability, enable support for both channel widths. This allows devices to use whichever width they support, which results in optimal performance and compatibility. Note that not all client devices support 40 MHz channels, so do not enable 40 MHz-only mode; devices that support only 20 MHz channels will not be able to connect to a Wi-Fi router in 40 MHz-only mode. In addition, not all routers support 40 MHz channels; a router that doesn't will use 20 MHz channels.

DHCP
Set to	Only one DHCP server per network
Description	The Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol (DHCP) assigns addresses that identify devices on your network. Once assigned, devices use these addresses to communicate with each other and with computers on the Internet. (The functionality of a DHCP server can be thought of as similar to a phone company handing out phone numbers, which customers then use to call other people).
More details	There should be only one DHCP server on your network. This DHCP server may be built in to your DSL or cable modem, a standalone router, or integrated with your Wi-Fi router. In any case, only one device should act as a DHCP server on your network. If more than one device has it enabled, you will likely see address conflicts and will have issues accessing the Internet or other resources on your network.

NAT
Set to	Only enabled on your router; only one device at most should provide NAT services on the network.
Description	Network address translation (NAT) translates between addresses on the Internet and those on a local network. (The functionality of a NAT provider is like that of a worker in an office mail room who takes a business address and an employee name on incoming letters and replaces them with the destination office number in a building. This allows people outside the business to send information to a specific person in the building).
More details	Generally, NAT should only be enabled on the device acting as a router for your network. This is usually either your DSL or cable modem, or a standalone router (which may also act as your Wi-Fi router). If NAT is enabled on more than one device—"double NAT"—you will likely have trouble accessing certain Internet services, such as games, Voice Over IP (VoIP), and Virtual Private Network (VPN), and communicating across the different levels of NAT on the local network.

Important: Information about products not manufactured by Apple is provided for information purposes only and does not constitute Apple’s recommendation or endorsement. Please contact the vendor for additional information.

AxL917

Level 1

8 points

Oct 1, 2012 11:34 AM in response to drStrangeP0rk

I'm sorry, but none of that is really of much use to people still having connectivity. Everything else is a constant; the setting, the routers, the WAPs. The variable is Apple and iOS 5 to iOS 6. Something beyond the initial broken URL to an apple.com webpage is still causing many people many problems.

Giving people generic "check your router firmware" guides is like if I was driving along my usual route home and came across a stretch of highway where the pavement was all ripped up and broken.

Me: "What should I do now? The road is too bumpy to drive on."

Tech: "Well, did you try putting on new tires?"

Patti

Level 1

40 points

Oct 1, 2012 11:45 AM in response to clemon85

I recently updated my ipad3 to ios6 and am also having wifi issues, although I must admit I believe that my previous ipad3 that Apple recently replaced as it was defective had similar issues at the end.

I can't give specifics on routers nor can I change any router setting as I am traveling and the problem is connecting with either a hotel Internet service or at a friend's house. At the hotel, at times, it would just not connect or find the server and at my friend's house it would find the server but would give me a message after entering the password that it could not connect. I was never taken automatically to any Apple page as others have noted.

The problem is also intermittent. Just 5 minutes ago, I could not connect at my friend's house but now I am connected.

I am looking at buying the iphone5 but if the problem is with ios6, I don't want it. I will stick with my Blackberry.

Oct 1, 2012 12:42 PM in response to clemon85

I log into the Starbucks WiFi and my home network. I can connect fine to both networks with my iPhone 4 with iOS 5. However, my iPad 3, which I foolishly updated to iOS 6, will only connect ft I do a complete reboot—and even then, not every time. Very frustrating!

Oct 1, 2012 1:21 PM in response to drStrangeP0rk

This does not fix the iOS 6 wifi connectivity issue.

When ALL idevices on any iOS have the same issue I'm experiencing with my iPhone 5 and iPad 3 on iOS 6 then I will consider this as a possible solution to the issue at hand.

Apple needs to fix this issue and provide their millions of users with some much needed support!

Android is looking better and better with every day Apple continues to let the issues of iOS 6 wreak havoc on it's users.

Inchbeag

Level 1

4 points

Oct 1, 2012 2:22 PM in response to drStrangeP0rk

Thank You drStrangeP0rk

I have printed out the settings and compared them to my router settings

Mine is a D-Link DSL-2780 supplied by my ISP in the UK
Firmware is at the latest level, released August 2012.

All settings conform to Apple's recommendations

Every morning I have to reset the network to default in my iPad3 and try 5 - 10 times before it connects

It lasts for half a day then drops and off we go again.

I am a member of the ISP's Test Lab Community and other members are having the same problems with a range of routers supplied by the ISP so it is not isolated to one make.
The Manager of the ISP lab has an iPad and he too is suffering!

So thanks for the help but until Apple issue a software fix to the community we are just going to have to suffer.

Imagine what would happen if a TV manufacturer introduced a new model that could only pick up some stations and turned round and told the broadcasters it is their fault the transmissions can't be received by the new TV - there would be a riot!

Oct 1, 2012 4:34 PM in response to clemon85

Having issues with iPhone3 connecting to home wifi since the iOS 6 update. It will only connect if I am in the same room as my wireless router, although my iPad and original iPhone will connect anywhere in the house. This is ridiculous! I have to pay for data download even though I should be connected to my wifi. We need a fix!!

On the up side, I am glad to hear it is not just me... I thought I was going crazy!

Thank you, and hang in there!

BonLou

Level 1

4 points

Oct 1, 2012 7:08 PM in response to smantiger

I just updated my router firmware and after 5 days of no wifi, it's back. I think it's the real fix. Google your model router, go to their website, download the update on a wired pc. Mine was Tp-link and it was easy to do. Try it.

Oct 1, 2012 7:39 PM in response to BonLou

Problem with my NetGear is that it already IS updated. And I really don't want to downgrade.

This thread has been closed by the system or the community team. You may vote for any posts you find helpful, or search the Community for additional answers.

Anyone still having IOS 6 wifi issues?