I had trouble with Bob's technique at first.
I hardwired my Express out on my porch, where there is only a very small wifi signal from the base station (a Time Capsule). Running my MacBook Air in the house, the wifi menu never showed the Express after it was reset, even though I waited a long time.
I tried temporarily moving the Express next to the Time Capsule, and Bob's procedure worked exactly as described.
I then moved the Express back to the porch, and it worked as desired - my iPhone switches automatically between the base station and Express as I walk around.
When I look at the settings now, they are per the "Roaming Network" article and John's description:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4260
In essence set the Express exactly the same as the base station, creating a network using the same name/security settings.
There is no "use Ethernet" setting, that is implicit when you "create a network". I'm guessing that "roaming" occurs naturally went the mobile device looses the weaker signal, tries to re-join and finds the stronger network. As long as they have the same network name and security settings (including password), the iPhone never knows what happened.
My iPhone will stick with the weaker network, and sit with 1 bar from the Express for some time after crossing into a strong signal area for the base station. If I walk a bit further, the signal strengh jumps up to full bars.
I'm hoping there is enough signal for the Time Capsule and Express to stay out of each other's channel when set to auto. Or else they just chose different channels this time. If I weren't so lazy I'd experiment with setting them to the same channel, just to see what happens. But I've already spent way too much time on this problem.
So either technique works. For me, it would have been marginally easier to just duplicate the settings.