How would I set up an FTP server in Mountain Lion Server?

I need to make a server, which would serve the same function that the FTP file-sharing option did before Lion. Plus whatever goodies of superior access control etc there may be; but mainly providing files for downloading and uploading.

(I don't want to be rude, but I've seen some previous discussion here, and I might save time by mentioning:

I do not need information on how bad FTP is.

I do not need a list of superior technologies.

I do have a problem invoving client systems that are not able to exchange files with my system by other means than ancient terrible FTP -- not even any practical form of sneakernet.)

Can anyone describe the process or give a link to something that does? Shell commands are fine. Well, sort of awful, but good enough.