Well, I've now tried CLR, goof off, ammonia, bleach, and paint thinner.  The stuff in the center is stubborn!  I was not successful in finding Hydrofluoric acid and may have to try 0000 steel wool.

I just don't understand why the whole screen couldn't be as durable and the main center part.  It's strange.  

The amount of hours I've spent on this pile of crap is way more than I bargained for.

Here's a place the will repair / replace the screen for $349: http://www.missionrepair.com/MacBook_Pro_15_Late_2013_RETINA_DISPLAY_Repair_p/22 2-7390.htm.  I wonder if they're reputable.  Anyone have any experience with these kind of repairs?

The interesting part is they have a got repair lifetime warranty.  Basically, if you need the same repair again, you get it a much cheaper rate the 2nd time around. 

epvaldo, I would offer to send the small bottle I have to you, but I don't think it is not easy to send such chemicals via normal post. But I'm astonished you could not find that stuff. Anyway, there are alternatives, for instance sulphurric acid. Google "Difference Between Sulphuric Acid and Hydrochloric Acid" and the first link should be pointing to difference between dot com. Sulphuric acid is basically battery acid, which surely you will find. Research the subject on how to lower the concentration and work safely with battery acid. Shouldn't be to difficult.

Both acid have oxidation properties which I believe is what removes the coating.

You do realise that IF Apple ever have a recall they will not touch a screen that has been attacked with acid, steel wool, toilet cleaners etc.?

Pete

I am a physicist.. and I usually use HF (Hydrofluoric) or H2SO4 (sulphuric) acids at work. four considerations:

1- these acids are not usually sold at supermarket, but only to companies or universities

2- the sulphuric acid don't etch glass, which is inert... but if you rinse this acid with water, it develops an exothermic reaction... in a few words, It becomes extremely hot (100°C or over). SO it is absolutely necessary to purchase highly diluted solutions.

3- Hydrofluoric acid etches glass at high concentrations.. so also for this acid... the use of highly diluted solution is mandatory.

4- Take extreme care that acids don't touch the rubber around the screen or the aluminum case.. the corrosive effect (also at low concentrations) is still high on "soft" surfaces..

Personally, I wouldn't recommend to use acids to remove AC coating.. I would try first with solvents (like Acetone), then with commercially available acids at supermarket (aqua regia), and last with HF or H2SO4...

One more, please extreme care to not touch any other surface but only the screen..

Do as you wish. Read my post.

Pete

Sorry, my answer was to mwille64 and epvaldo

You are right in pointing out the risk. I actually pointed out most of it in earlier posts. Such as using gloves and avoiding to touch anything but the glass. And of course you should not deal with high concentrated acid (IT IS INDEED DANGEROUS). I stated multiple times that the acid I used was diluted down to 12%, which is pretty save. It can still ruin (stain) surfaces such as that of chrome sinks or your MacBooks aluminum case.

To make it short, if you do not feel absolutely confident in dealing with acids...KEEP YOUR HANDS OFF IT. If however your second name is "Chemistry" and your Macbook Pro is (like mine) way over any guaranty / warranty period and you don't want to wait for Apple to step up, using an acid will work! I have posted images of my cleaned screen here in the recent past and I'm attaching the images again...

Water and window cleaner (5% alcohol)...(almost all coating is gone already!!!)...

With hydrofluoric acid diluted to 12%...

I can assure everyone that my screen is again nice to look at despite it being more reflective. It is definitely WAY BETTER then with the damaged coating.

Acetone might be a good idea actually. Haven't tried that. Thinner and similar chemicals however do not work...I tried. Acetone is ketone and also has acidic properties. So maybe?!

water? water? maybe use something else and do you have a rubber keybord protecter that in heat might of melt because i 've seen that before

Was thinking of purchasing a rMBP, but after seeing Apple leave its customers eating a screen with a defective coating, I am reconsidering.

The way this issue is proving itself out to be, I wouldn't spend my money on one. Just the fact that many Apple stores are classifying this as a cosmetic issue not covered under the warranty is just wrong. The most important thing to me is how quickly a company responds and fixes an issue when things go wrong.

I was using Hama's Touch Screen Cleaner (link) for about a year until my rMBP started to develop the stains. I don't know if the solution caused the problem, but Hama is a reliable company from Germany, so I do think there could be a defect in the display.

I really doubt it was the cleaner if you used one that's good for coated displays.  This problem happens to people who just use a damp microfiber cloth with water.  It's more an issue of a defective manufacturing process. 

I just purchased the retina screen I need from ebay. It comes from B stock which means it may have some slight scratches on the outside of the metal but the screen is perfect. $270 delivered. And here are the instructions to fix it:https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Retina+Display+Late+2013+Displa y+Assembly+Replacement/23392