the "Princess" network (from previous capture) is ~ as the crow flies ~ within 25' from my modem. Another is about 50' the others range from 60' to 150' (give or take). The reason for channel 5 is that, according to my ISP phone tech, it offered the least interference.
I do not really have a lot of issues with using channel 5 as long as your neighbors are on 1 and 11, except for the HP printer, which I'm assuming is a printer attached to your router acting as a print server. If this is someone else's print server, then you have direct competition from that print server.
Looking into its settings, I found that this modem does support 5GHz however my older laptop is limited to the 11 channels. It does not detect the modem when I switch out of 2.4GHz channels.
This sounds like your WiFi base station will not support both 2.4GHz and 5GHz at the same time. You get to choose either 2.4GHz -OR- 5GHz. If that is true, you want to get a new WiFi base station (either from your ISP or your own).
I used to use a router and the reason for my switching to the wifi modem was because my ISP kept blaming all their issues on my equipment. It became a battle. Once we started renting this WiFi Modem, they quickly found the source of the problem, which had nothing to do with my house, and resolve the issue. Now, however, they claim all is working to peak efficiency minus line interference coming from their end. Yet here I am getting kicked off my own home network several times per day.
Finger pointing is a pain in the ...
I understand your situation. You could see about connecting your own WiFi router to the ISP's WiFi device, ONLY a) put your router into "Bridge Mode" which may be an actual option, or it may entail disabling the DHCP server and/or NAT sever on the WiFi router you buy (that is to say you are really buying a router to get the WiFi radios, and turning off the router features). That way connection issues from the router to the internet you can point to the ISP's equipment and says "Fix It, as this happens with your equipment". But you can get WiFi with your own equipment, which will include dual radios (because you will buy good equipment .
And if you can configure the ISP's WiFi router to turn off its radios, you will not have radio interferences, and only turn them back on when you need to prove something to the ISP.
Personally I would just get a broadband modem, and do my own router (which is actually what I do; I did this previously with Verizon FiOS, and currently with Comcast after we moved into a new home; they provided modems only, and I used my Airport Extreme routers for routing and WiFi access). But finger pointing from the ISP, is a pain. Personally if there are ISP issues, I would eliminate my router from the mix, and connect a computer directly to the modem to prove that it was the ISP equipment. And if you have a Windows box, even better as few ISP really understand Macs. So you eliminate all the things they want to blame on your by eliminating anything they can point the finger at.
When speaking of dual radios, does this imply the type I have, which is "either/or" or does it support both simultaneously? Does 5GHz offer better stability for multiple devices? (I do apologize for my ignorance but my memory is failing me these days.) Would it stop kicking me off the network?
I suspect you have Either/Or today. Most current WiFi routers that are not dirt cheap, have 2 radios. One that transmits on the 2.4GHz frequences, and one that transmits on the 5GHz frequencies. So any devices that support 5GHz can use that radio, and any devices that use 2.4GHz can use those frequencies.
The advantage of having some devices on 2.4GHz and some on 5GHz (those that have 5GHz capabilities) is that you have less conflict between your devices for bandwidth when doing transfers between devices.
Also if your ISP gives you more than 25 megabits/second capabilities, your 2.4GHz devices will saturate the WiFi before they saturate the broadband connection. Of course if some of your devices are Ethernet connected, they will have lots of bandwidth to drive your broadband connection.
Also routers that have either/or radios, then to also have much less powerful processors inside, and it may be that they are not able to switch traffic between the Ethernet LAN ports as well as between the WiFi connections. That is to say, it is possible that an either/or WiFi router may not be up to supporting lots of between device high speed data transfers, nor fully supporting a broadband connection that is greater than 25megabits/second.
So, a) confirm what broadband speeds you ahve
b) that your ISP provided WiFi router is capable of handling all that traffic (this may require Google, as your ISP may not give you good info on their provided device).
You said you had your own WiFi router before. Can you configure it in "Bridge Mode" (as described above) and see if your WiFi connections improve? that might be a cheap way to prove it is the ISP's WiFi router and not yours.
One other thing I should point out.
2.4GHz is sharing the frequencies with 2.4GHz cordless phones (could be your or your neighbors). 2.4GHz baby monitors (could be your or your neighbors), Microwave ovens (really, they use 2.4GHz microwaves to cook your food; this is one of the reasons the 2.4GHz bands were given to unlicensed transmitters), and finally Bluetooth also uses 2.4GHz, although Bluetooth is much friendlier to other 2.4GHz uses and less likely to be a cause, but you should know).
Is it possible that you have any of these devices (Cordless phones or especially baby monitors because they are always on). You will not see any of these devices listed in a WiFi scan, so you have to actually check your cordless phones, your baby monitor, and the ones your neighbors are using.