30" Cinema Display 2nd Monitor for Retina iMac

Yes. You need a Mini DisplayPort to dual-link DVI adapter.

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The Thunderbolt 2 ports appear to allow use of a few adapters and cable options.

Seems a few adapters appear in the Store add-on accessory page, point of sale:

http://store.apple.com/us/buy-mac/imac-retina?product=MF886LL/A&step=config#acce ssories

And a look at the port configuration shows the layout, and recent changes there.

Since the available Thunderbolt 2 ports offer higher spec and compatibility via

adapter to older spec, their appearance is almost deceptive... Some items may

not work as expected or with incorrect adapters, cables, etc. The newer display

(than 30" Cinema) would have a Thunderbolt 2 cable, and not need an adapter.

Special needs of the largest Cinema drive the need for the dual-link DVI. My 20"

Cinema display is the smallest one of the group, uses different adapter connect

to run with Late 2012 Mini quad.

Good luck with your upscale iMac... 🙂

For use with my newer MINI, the Cinema display required a FireWire800 to 400 adapter.

Of course the Retina 27-inch iMac 5K does not have FireWire at all...!

A second Thunderbolt to FW adapter?

So I ended up purchasing a Moshe design with short cable and two plugs instead of a

hard plastic (less costly) cheap one that may have leverage/damage the computer port.

At least the computer included the DVI to HDMI adapter in the kit.

Some of the other adapters likely should still appear in the Apple Store online. I'd not

researched further there, but will probably have to purchase a few more. The online

sources for adapters may include OWC macsales.com, as they also have good pre-

sale support. You can get info and then think about it awhile.

Anyway, the time here is 2AM AKST, so it's time to be going offline...

Good luck & happy computing! 🙂

edited

For use with my newer MINI, the Cinema display required a FireWire800 to 400 adapter.

Only needed if you want to use the display's FireWire ports.

In the personal example given, that was the sole purpose;

and also noted the new iMac retina 27-inch model has no

FireWire ports; so the adapting of FW to that model would

require some product to go from Thunderbolt 2 to FW.

If one desired to use old FW400, yet another adapter such

as the Moshe FW800 to 400, as my Late2012 Mini required

for use with the Apple 20-inch Cinema aluminum display.

A work-around if possible, involves another TBlt adapter.

At some point, the potential of failure given adapters and

older technologies, was also mentioned. re: Trial & Error.

So, in that instance, there was no discrepancy or error given 😐

Other than carefully using a good multi-meter to test output, and see if the power

supply is within the stated (or otherwise published?) parameters of the display,

you may not be able to tell directly. Sometimes, there could be another part inside

the display itself that is acting up; at least the power supply is external, accessible.

There may be a few youtube or other online videos, that show some aspects

otherwise more difficult to fathom; you may have to spring for a $100/$200

replacement supply by part number, however if the circuit board inside the 30-

inch display has a failed component, then you'd be looking at other parts, too.

For a look into a cross section of retail/used displays and a few components:

http://www.thefind.com/computers/browse-apple-cinema-display-power

Someone adapted a different power unit from something else, here:

http://pixelchimp.net/blog/pixel-chimp/replacement-power-supply-apple-cinema-dis play

There are motherboards and other parts inside, to include cold fluorescent backlights.

OR with later model, the LED. And all early models did not have MagSafe DC outputs.

And these can add to the troubleshooting. If the display worked with a different Mac

then didn't with yet another, but returned to functional status when swapped back to

the original or another; this may indicate a faulty wire near a plug on a cable. Or it

could indicate something that was running hot (in display, or in specific Mac) that

shut off due to built-in limits and temperature sensitive overload protection.

Not sure if the iFixit site shows any inside information on early or late Aluminum Cinema

displays; first three, as stated in an older Apple Support article may have different parts.

The later model included ThunderBolt2, while earlier build didn't.

If the power supply has the input/output specifications, then you may be able to check

the output against a good digital multimeter. Or carry the unit to a shop (call ahead) to

see if they can test it for you. Someone who has a known-good power unit certainly

would be a very helpful person to know. Some of these were backward compatible to

a smaller screen model; but not all. The small 20-inch used much less output, so the

limit on that may be to use a 23-inch adapter with the 20-inch; or 30-inch with 23, etc.

The newer models may not share the same power supplies. I have not researched this.

Older ones do not have the power for MagSafe to use with MacBook product. When

replacing the power supply be sure there is adequate compatibility; a slightly higher out-

put supply should be OK since it won't under-power the display, other things being equal.

(Or, if not, that may be the rub.)

So, if you have the meter to test power output, that may be a start.

However with the circuitry inside, other troubleshooting is likely.

With the DC output from the display adapter, a good meter should

be simple enough to test. It would show a negative value if you do

not have the leads in the correct power source for + pos - neg.

Good luck in this matter...!