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All replies
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Helpful answers
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Jun 26, 2015 3:11 AM in response to Radiotanteby seventy one,Are the batteries either Duracell, Apple, Energiser or Eneloop? Where did you buy them? Is there a green light showing consistently.
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Jun 26, 2015 3:21 AM in response to seventy oneby Radiotante,The batteries are the same I used all the time (when the keyboard was working correct connected to the iMac): Panasonic
No, there is no green light showing consistently.
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Jun 26, 2015 3:31 AM in response to Radiotanteby seventy one,Not all batteries are regular in size; a mm or so difference is enough to cause a problem. Also, if the batteries you replaced showed any sign of corrosion it may have left residue in the compartment. In any event ...
Remove the batteries and using a cotton bud, dampened with alcohol, white vinegar or the like (not wet), clean the contact points inside the battery compartment. Then the batteries themselves. Wait until dry and replace the batteries and try again.
Do you have a monitor like istat pro to monitor battery strength. If the connection is bad the batteries may register as spent whether they are or not.
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Jun 26, 2015 3:41 AM in response to seventy oneby Radiotante,Thanks for the advice.
How to reach the contact point deep in the keyboard??
I thought the batteries could not be the problem because the LED of the keyboard is okay.
The monitor shows the battery strength - but of course not if the keyboard is not connected.
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Jun 26, 2015 3:49 AM in response to Radiotanteby seventy one,Puzzled by your reply. The contact points much be reachable if you can put new batteries in. Disconnect and take another look, if only for future reference. You say the LED is okay. If the keyboard LED does not blink then ... it is either not showing green or is consistently green. Which of these is correct.
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Jun 26, 2015 3:59 AM in response to seventy oneby Radiotante,It´s hard for me to explain all this in English.
To put batteries into the keyboard I open the slim "tunnel" at the top of the keyboard and let the batteries slide in. The contact in the inner side of the "tunnel" can not be reached actually.
The LED of the keyboard shows as descripted by Apple: When I press the on/of-button the LED shows green for about two seconds. It does not blink as if it was trying to connect to the iMac.
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Jun 26, 2015 5:20 AM in response to Radiotanteby seventy one,You don't need to apologise; your English is very good.
Try these resets.
Reset the SMC.
https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT201295 You may have to do this two or three times.
Or for the PRAM (NVRAM)
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204063 This too may need more than one go.
Do one of them, then test to see if it connects before trying the other.
Several edits. Sorry about the changes of screen
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Jun 27, 2015 4:49 AM in response to seventy oneby Radiotante,Well, I tried the SMC-Rest three times. No result.
To try the NVRAM-Rest please help me again: Because I have to use a non- Apple-keyboard for the moment I don´t know which keys I have to use here corresponding the apple-keyboard-keys "command" and "option".
In the instructions I am requested to press "command, option P, and R". Will be a challenge to press them all at once...
By the way: The keyboard connects to my iPad without any difficulty but not to my MacBook Air.
(Last not least: You say my English is okay - but I don´t understand "sorry about the changes of screen"... )
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Jun 27, 2015 5:46 AM in response to Radiotanteby seventy one,You will need to provide us with a screen shot of your keyboard ... and even then it may be tricky. The P and R are of course the letters P and R ... but whether they have alternate underlying jobs to do on a Mac, I don't know. Command is almost always to the immediate left and right of the space bar and Option is often called alt.
My reference to the screens was made because I had to do two edits to what I had written, and I wasn't sure if you were reading at that time. If that had been the case, the screen may have gone off and come back on again.
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Jun 27, 2015 6:13 AM in response to Radiotanteby Lexiepex,Even when you think that you have put in a full battery in, take it out and put another new one in. In 99% of the issues this helps.
(Hi S O, have a wonderful day)
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Jun 27, 2015 6:30 AM in response to Lexiepexby seventy one,Hi Lex,
I suppose with a bit of Jiggery Pokery one could manipulate a cotton bud to reach the inside contact point. Our friend, Radiotante never did say what the condition was of the batteries S/he replaced. But there is a trace of green from time to time so some connection is there.
Keep well,
71.
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Jun 27, 2015 6:51 AM in response to Radiotanteby WZZZ,May have nothing to do with batteries. I'm on Mountain Lion, but you should find the same, or something similar, in whatever OS you are running. Open Bluetooth in System Preferences, click the Advanced button, and see if the following is checked. See also https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204621
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Jun 27, 2015 7:04 AM in response to WZZZby WZZZ,Should have asked, since I don't think you said anything about this: was the keyboard working and being recognized before you changed the batteries?
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Jun 27, 2015 7:36 AM in response to WZZZby Radiotante,@ LexSchellings: Thanks, but did you see that I mentioned that the keyboard connects to the iPad without problems both with the former and the new batteries.
But I followed your advice anyway. Did not change anything. (So what the **** is this remaining One-Percent-Problem??)
@ WZZZ: Thanks too; I did all this before. - The keyboard worked fine and I changed the batteries only after the problem occurred. But BEFORE the problem occurred I had unplugged the power adapter because I moved the iMac to another place to use it there. Worked after replugging and starting fine. Afterwards I unplugged the power adapter again to remove the iMac to the former place and replugged the power adapter. The next day when I started the iMac the keyboard was not recognized. I removed it from the Bluetooth-List hoping that could help. And then I startet this thread.
@seventy one: I will now try to reset the NVRAM with my old Windows-keyboard and hope that will finally help... (but I read somewhere that the bluetooth settings are not saved in the NVRAM of intel iMacs)
