Replace Power Button on Performa Monitor?

It will help us help you if you can find a model number; there were a number of different monitors bundled with Performa computers but may not be cataloged in repair resources as a "Performa Monitor."

You are looking for a model number starting with "M" followed by four digits.

Opening any CRT (picture tube) monitor is not a simple job or one for the inexperienced. Inside can lurk residual charges with enough voltage to kill. If you do not have experience with high-voltage electronics, you are better off looking for an used monitor that will work and writing off the old one.

You might even find a 21st century monitor will work with this computer. I recall using VGA monitors with my IIci, Quadra, and G3 with a converter for the 25 pin Apple to 15 pin VGA (I think those are the specs). The trick may be finding the converter. Middle age monitors should be no problem and even a new one might work.

The database I have does not have order numbers (what you found) for monitors, and another returned no monitors for that "LL" number. No other numbers showing, like M4681?

The few monitors I've had apart† require exposing the CRT nasties to get to the switch on the bezel. The rear case that covers the nasties is too often screwed to the bezel, so has to come off to free the bezel for access to the switch.

Maybe wearing gloves if the charge is still an issue?

NO! The pros use procedures to safely drain or discharge voltages, not ones that trick them into thinking they have a barrier up. Many electrocutions happen when a person lays a exposed part of an arm or other body part against some charged metal component that they didn't see. You need either professional help or training to deal with the high voltages; I have no desire to recommend an action that could be your last. I has seen people report here that they were able to get help with monitors and the voltage issues by talking to old TV repairmen. They used to deal with this stuff several a time a day and know how to do the discharge.

A lot still appears to be a function of your model. You may have one that has safer access. If you can't find an "m" number can you post a photo of the front and back of the display and tell us the screen size measured diagonally?

† -- I took them to a friend who runs an electronics shop for discharging before attempting repairs.

You have a 14" Performa Color Display. Typically, the front and rear plastic housings need to be separated, in order to access the front power button. The plastic button that you press is an actuator, and not the actual power switch that's usually mounted on the control panel board. With many of Apple's products, the problem with disassembly of the outer plastics (years later) is caused by their industrial designers' obsession for blind plastic snap-catches. In order to present a seamless enclosure, visible metal screws are at a minimum (just look at a Performa 6400 or the early iMacs). Often, special tools are designed for the serviceman to insert through narrow slots, to safely release a plastic latch and minimize cracking. Over time, the plastics stiffen to the point that they lose the capability to withstand the flexing needed to latch/unlatch. When more pressure is applied to pop open a blind joint, the plastic often breaks. You might successfully separate the two housings, but there's no guarantee that you'd ever get them to snap back together tightly. If the housings are secured by removable screws, then you're facing the next obstacle, which is a greater risk and has already been mentioned to you. Prior to circuit board removal/repair, you need to discharge the high voltage stored in the CRT. This is where the danger of electrocution can occur, because this charge is stored for many months, even if the display has been sitting in storage. Years ago, there were stories about thrifty individuals who lacked the necessary electronics knowledge, but attempted to save a buck by repairing their TV sets. Unfortunately, some were seriously injured or killed in the process. Beyond eliminating the shock hazard, the practical problem for you would be finding a compatible latching push button switch, with the correct specs and one that would fit the control panel board. These switches have a rating for ON/OFF cycles before failure, so finding another old Performa display and swapping over its control board might be a temporary fix, until that switch fails. It's metal or plastic fatigue that causes the problem that you're experiencing, so it's the nature of the switch to finally break after many years of usage. Is there some external fix that you could devise, to keep the switch pushed in? The better and safer alternative would be to replace the display with a fully-functioning one. I don't know where you're located, but in the U. S., thousands of those older CRT-type computer displays and TV sets are being disposed through e-cycling. It's getting harder to find them at thrift stores that sell used computers and peripherals, because many of these stores won't accept the old type (heavy) displays for donation. The ones that don't sell are a headache for them, because they must be properly disposed of as hazardous electronics waste.