OS X 10.11.3 Wi-Fi issue (Internet/Server)

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Level 1

8 points

OS X 10.11.3 Wi-Fi issue (Internet/Server)

Hey guys, I have a super weird situation that's become increasingly annoying:

In short, I lose internet connectively on my MBP ONLY (Retina, 15-inch, Late 2013 on OS X 10.11.3, as well as previous versions). My PS3, iPhone, iPad, visiting friends' laptops (PC & older MBPs), etc. are all fine, leading me to rule out router issues. The router, for reference sake, is a NetGear C3000 (2.4 GHz b/g/n).

Whether I'm streaming Netflix/Hulu, doing regular browsing, or working, my internet would be fine for about 5-10 minutes before it gets hung up. Network Diagnostics shows Green across the board EXCEPT "Internet" and "Server" which usually show "Yellow."

Whenever I do a workaround, it would run perfectly smooth again...for about 5-10 minutes before having to do it all over again.

Workarounds I regularly perform in order of frequency:

- System Preferences -> Network -> Advanced -> TCP/IP -> Renew DHCP Lease

- Turn Wi-Fi On/Off

- Changing the channel on the Router (both auto and manually)

- Delete network from Wi-Fi list, then readding to top to Preferred Network list

- Turn Wi-Fi Off, go to //Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/ -> Delete files (com.apple.airport.preferences.plist, com.apple.wifi.message-tracer.plist, NetworkInterfaces.plist, preferences.plist, et al.), restart, turn Wi-Fi On

In rare instances, I've also done the following:

- Factory Reboot on Router & ensure firmware is up to date and ensuring Hidden Networks and MAC address authentication settings are disabled (just in case)

- Going into the Adobe Flash Player Settings Manager and clearing sites under privacy settings & renewing licenses (usually if light browsing works but streaming doesn't)

- Wireless Diagnostics -> Scan -> Finding which channel has the least amount of people on it, then changing the channel based off that

- Changing the network SSID

- Deleting cookies/cache

- Toggling Bluetooth-connected devices on/off (hand to God, that worked twice)

Some of the above plus other ent top to bottom at Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points - Apple Support (obvi the 5 GHz wasn't really applicable)

As you can see, a lot of troubleshooting at multiple levels trying to figure out if it was one thing or the other.

Even in the course of typing this up I had to do one of the workarounds!

Suggestions? Any guidance is greatly appreciated, thank you!

Posted on Feb 20, 2016 11:00 AM

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Answer 1

Linc Davis

Level 10

209,739 points

Feb 20, 2016 11:19 AM in response to bustachong

Do you have the same problem on other networks, or only on your own?

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Answer 2

bustachong Author

Level 1

8 points

Feb 20, 2016 11:58 AM in response to Linc Davis

Good question!

It's hard to tell because I don't take my MBP to other networks very often, but I yes, have had the same issue (though maybe not the same level of frequency).

I usually have problems when I'm on travel, but it's hard to tell if it's an issue with my MBP or just really crappy Wi-Fi in general.

To amend my original post, SOMETIMES I can make it through an entire episode of TV (~hour) before having to reset. But when it's bad, I do have to go through the workarounds every 10 minutes or so.

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Answer 3

Linc Davis

Level 10

209,739 points

May 12, 2016 6:09 PM in response to bustachong

Please test after taking each of the following steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved. Back up all data before making any changes.

Step 1

Take the applicable steps in this support article.

Step 2

The Wireless Diagnostics program generates a large file of information about your system, which would be used by Apple Engineering in case of a support incident. Don't post the contents here.

Be sure to test on more than one Wi-Fi network, if at all possible. A desktop computer can be tested with a mobile hotspot, such as the hotspot created by a cell phone. If the problem only exists on one network, then the access point of that network should be the focus of your attention, not the computer.

Step 3

If your model supports AirDrop (most do), open the AirDrop window and select

Allow me to be discovered by: No One

Step 4

Disconnect all USB 3 devices, and also all external displays if the Mac has one built in. If you don't know which devices are USB 3, disconnect all USB devices except keyboard and mouse.

Step 5

If you're not using a wireless keyboard or trackpad, disable Bluetooth by selecting Turn Bluetooth Off from the menu with the Bluetooth icon. If you don't have that menu, open the Bluetooth preference pane in System Preferences and check the box marked Show Bluetooth in menu bar. Test. If you find that Wi-Fi works better with Bluetooth disabled, you should use the 5 GHz Wi-Fi band. Your router may not support it; in that case, you need a new router.

Step 6

Open the Energy Saver pane in System Preferences and unlock the settings, if necessary. Select the Power Adapter tab, if there is one. Uncheck the box marked

Wake for Wi-Fi network access

if it's checked.

Step 7

Open the Network pane in System Preferences and make a note of your settings in the Wi-Fi service. It may be helpful to take screenshots of the various tabs in the preference pane. If the preference pane is locked, unlock it by clicking the padlock icon and entering your administrator password. Delete Wi-Fi from the service list on the left by selecting it and clicking the minus-sign button at the bottom. Then recreate the service by clicking the plus-sign button and following the prompts.

Step 8

In the Wi-Fi settings, select

Advanced... ▹ TCP/IP ▹ Configure IPv6: Link-local only

Click OK and then Apply.

Step 9

Reset the System Management Controller.

Step 10

Reset the PRAM.

Step 11

Launch the Keychain Access application. Search for and delete all AirPort network password items that refer to the network. Make a note of the password first. Turn Wi-Fi off and then back on. You'll be prompted for the password when you reconnect. Save it in the keychain.

Step 12

Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in.

Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.

Safe mode is much slower to start up and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output. The next normal startup may also be somewhat slow.

The login screen appears even if you usually login automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.

Test while in safe mode. If the problem is (temporarily) resolved, stop here and post your results.

Step 13

Reinstall the OS. The linked support article refers to OS X 10.11 ("El Capitan"), but the procedure is the same for OS X 10.7 ("Lion") and later.

Step 14

Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service center.

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Answer 4

bustachong Author

Level 1

8 points

May 12, 2016 6:12 PM in response to Linc Davis

Looping back around to this almost 3 months later. Looks like this was the fix!

Not entirely sure where exactly the problem was, but it was somewhere around Steps 9 and 10. For other people coming across this thread, please note the my MBP acted VERY peculiar after doing Steps 9 and 10 (slower than usual, thought something catastrophic happened), but it later resolved itself and I haven't had wifi problems since.

Steps 1-8 for sure for sure did nothing and were steps I took prior to this thread though.

Thanks again!

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