How can I remove a little dot that recorded on my videos in the same exact spot?

SliceX has an object removal tool. Made by Coremelt.

You can probably pull it off with effects in FCPX. Here's a video that describes how to use the new masking features: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKAFYnbr1ME then use Hue Saturation or Tint or Gaussian Blur or perhaps even the Color Board. Use the eye dropper to select the problem spot color and multiple shape masks to limit where the effect is applied. Shape masks can be keyframed (position, rotation) if necessary. Color masks can be keyframed for color over time. That video also introduces a set of effects that take advantage of the new masking setup that will allow you to mask out areas (similar to the Keyer, just easier to use), colorize masked areas with solids or gradients and a clone tool which will allow you to move adjacent "good" video into masked areas. You do not need those templates to handle your problem, so I'm not trying to make a sale here, but the information about masking in that video is quite useful.

In the olden days, we would place a copy of the clip underneath. Apply a bit of blur to the lower copy. Move the lower copy over and up a few pixels, not many. Apply soft edged masks to the upper copy that open little holes to the bottom copy. You see the bottom copy through the holes.

SliceX has a fairly good reputation At $100 it's cheap compared to reshooting. But there are other pixel-level repair tools.If you're paying yourself, learning how to do invisible repairs using several different methods is going to be expensive.

Alos, find out where those artifacts are coming from and fix 'em. Dirt on your sensor, lens schmutz, dead pixels.

IVTC wrote:

Thank you so much for the info. I was watching the video and I am trying to do it but for some reason I am not able to do it right. If I try to mask it, I can't remove the dots and the video goes on so I don't want that mask to go over faces and stuff. Is there anyway you can give me step by step instructions if possible? Sorry for the hassle.

Here is a short clip:

http://expirebox.com/download/bb5b5c9208ac2b123af51b3c22df37fc.html

Your link merely points back to this same discussion... no clip

Thanks, I could see it now. It must be something on Safari on my side, as both the links redirected to this page.

I copied and pasted into Chrome and could download the movie.

It looks like dirt on the lens at the time of shooting.

With all the other scratches from old film that are in there, I would suggest you just leave it as is - true to the source, old, grainy film, with dirt and all.

But if you want to proceed, try and follow fox_m's advice.

Definitely! Part of the issue was that the lens was dirty but I just don't want to have to redo all 13 reels again.

Now I'm intrigued. How could you go about redoing this?

IVTC wrote:

I am recording these from Super 8 film reels to files. My HD recording lens was dirtaaaayyyy and I wasn't paying attention. 😀

Ok, I see. Here is what I suggest: try rerecording one reel, and while it is going try "fixing" another. Then compare the effort vs the quality of the results and decide what you want to do for the rest.

For the most part, since the spots do not move in the frame, it simplifies things slightly. When the camera pans subjects into the view in conflict with the spots, that's where you'll have to do some keyframing.

For the clip you posted, I would recommend using a Blur > Gaussian Blur. Apply it to the clip and turn down the Amount so you can still see the dark marks. Mouse over the View Masks label on the Gaussian title bar in the inspector, a "mask" icon (rectangle with a dashed line circle) will appear. Click on that and select Shape Mask. This will add one shape mask to your clip. You can add AS MANY shape masks as you need -- but keep it as simple as possible (render times, etc.) Five or six for the worst areas will work just fine. When you add the first one, find the worst spot to cover. Size the mask down to just fit over the dark spot. Adjust the Feathering ring down as well - you want to keep these pretty "tight" for the mask and slightly loose for feathering.

(before — after)

Before applying the blur amount, add the other most critical masks. Here's an overview of how the masks were applied for the above example:

You can set a keyframe for the Amount parameter and when the masked/blurred area moves over "important" scene parts, you can keyframe the amount down to near zero and back up again when they reappear in the sky/background. Of all the methods I tried out, this one works the best - you'll have to deal with the spots but they won't be hanging out in the sky regions.

If you have problems with too many masks in one Gaussian blur instance, you can opt to use several copies on a single clip with different masking for each. There is at least one or two places in the clip you posted where a secondary Gaussian Blur would work better than trying to cram all the shape masks in with one instance of the effect.

If the end result is really important to you, then it will all be worth the effort. It will take some time. Otherwise, better color quality might serve you better (a little color board magic.)

BTW - what equipment are you using to telecine the old film to digital? This is quite good (considering it's 8mm.)