8MM TRANFEFR FLICKER...

I'm transferring some old family 8mm films to DVD by first capturing them with a miniDV video camera and then procesing them in i-movie. I was wondering if there is a setting or a plug-in that will remove the flicker from the captured images? I think it has to do with the frame rate of 18fps vs. the speed of the video camera whose frame rate would be somewhere around 20fps. If there is no correction process in i-Movie, does anyone know if there is a way to configure the video camera so it wont show this flicker?

Thanks in advance,

Donagh

Mac Book Pro, Mac OS X (10.4.8), 2 Gigs of Memory

Posted on Dec 7, 2006 4:20 PM

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6 replies

Dec 8, 2006 10:18 AM in response to Donagh

Hmm,

Don't know how much/many feet you have that you are trying to convert. I had 1,000 ft (twenty rolls) and had a company that specializes in doing that very thing professionally with the right type of equipment and was very pleased with the results. Especially since one of the rolls was from 1951!!

It costs about .10 - .15 cents a foot plus shipping. You might want to check them out.

homemoviedepot.com

Good luck.

Bob

Dec 8, 2006 11:38 AM in response to Donagh

a video in the US has 29.97 frames per second and is made of 480 lines..
you have to sync that with your films...

otherwise, you have flicker or these black movin' horizontal line ...

... telecining film, esp. with a (very) different frame rate is no trivial task..
I've heard of special silverscreens which "hold" the projection for a fraction of a second... kind of afterglow...

professional companies use special digitizers which in a second step computate the mismatching framerates...

... I would ask a specialized company doing that .. 😉

Dec 8, 2006 11:57 AM in response to Donagh

Donagh,

If you would like this done right and to be watchable, get it transfered by someone who does this professionally. You will spend hours trying to get the sync right and trust me you will never get it to go away. I spent 2 months, 4 yrs ago trying to do what you are trying to do.

If you insist on doing by yourself, you will need a tranfer unit about $1600 and a decent camera that can be manually adjusted, another $400.

A 1000ft of film should cost you about $250 fully transfered to DVD. My company performs these services and I would gladly assit you. www.holderprintworks.com


G4 Dual 867 - 2Gb & G5 Dual 2ghz - 3 Gb Mac OS X (10.4.4)

G4 Dual 867 - 2Gb & G5 Dual 2ghz - 3 Gb Mac OS X (10.4.4)

Dec 9, 2006 12:16 PM in response to Donagh

If you're using a video camera which has manual settings, do the following:

1 - Set the video camera's shutter speed to slightly slower (..that's to say -l-o-n-g-e-r- ) than the film's frame rate. If the film's 18fps, try for a setting on the camera such as 1/15th sec. That will very slightly blur together successive film frames, and will definitely remove flicker. (..Flicker results from the video camera's shutter being open for a frame or so while the film projector's shutter is closed, resulting in the video camera shooting a blank [black] screen, giving alternate image-&-black when the video is played..)

2 - Set the camera's White Balance to interior/light-bulb/indoor. That will match the colour of the film's projection lamp so that you get the correct colours on the video, instead of things looking rather blue or washed out.

3 - Set the video camera's auto-exposure to manual if you can, to get a good average brightness. (..If it's left on auto, instead, the resultant video will get brighter and darker as it "hunts" to try and follow or match the brightness of individual scenes in the film..)

4 - Set the video camera's focus to manual, too, if you can, and focus accurately on a few seconds of film before recording the whole thing. (..If focus is left on automatic, it, too, will "hunt" for the correct focus at scene changes, or changes in film brightness, giving out-of-focus segments of the resultant video..)

5 - Set the video camera on as near as possible the same 'line-of-sight' as the projector - slightly above or below it, or right beside it. That'll give the brightest possible video recording if you're shooting the film off a screen. (..Other contraptions, with a 45 degree mirror, assorted lenses, hoods, etc, also need aligning carefully, but may give a bright "hot-spot" in the centre of the picture, instead of providing even light all over the image..)

P.S: I may not be able to reply or give further info for a while, as I'm really away on holiday, without a proper internet connection, sorry..

Dec 10, 2006 12:28 AM in response to David Babsky

..Oh: just one more thing..

Viewfinders seldom show the full area which a camera records; that doesn't matter if the video is going to be shown on a standard TV with a tube, because some of the picture area will be 'lost' anyway (..like tears in rain?..) because it'll spill beyond the edges of the screen in what's called "overscan".

But if the ultimate aim of the video is to be shown on a computer screen, or on a flat-panel TV, then you may need to do a short test, filling the viewfinder with just the blank movie screen, for example, then playing that back in iMovie to see how much else you've shot just beyond the edges of the movie screen.

That'll give you an idea of how much to zoom in for the actual recording, so that the video camera doesn't capture beyond the edges of the movie screen, and include thus unwanted material around the edge of the frame.

..Now I gotta go..

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