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Here's the trick to "seeing" the code on your page. You have to tell TextEdit to ignore rich text commands. If you want this to be the default behavior for TextEdit, just open up TextEdit and look in the Preferences window. Click on "Open & Save" and check the box to "ignore rich text commands". Then when you open up and HTML page, TextEdit will show you the underlying raw HTML code instead of trying to render it like in a browser.
Just to point you further in the right direction, the index.html file that you are seeing is just a redirect that goes to your real homepage... If you want to add your StatCounter code to only one page in your site, it should probably be the homepage (the one that shows when someone types in your address). This page should be inside your sitefolder. For instance, if your starting page is named "Welcome" then the corresponding HTML file to look for in the site folder would be "Welcome.html". Open this file with your new and improved TextEdit and you'll see the code for this page. Scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see these three tags: </body></html>. Paste the StatCounter code before </body>. So it should be in this order: <--StatCounter code--></body></html>.
Once you are finished pasting the code, then simply select "Save" or type Apple-s. Don't use the "Save As..." command. Just Save. Now check your webpage and you should see the StatCounter counter at the bottom of your page.
Remember, since you are doing this editing after publishing, iWeb will tend to overwrite these changes whenever you update your page. So you will end up needing to replace these changes. You might want to get familiar with a program called MassReplaceIt that will help you save these kinds of "find and replace" actions and execute them each time after you publish.
http://www.hexmonkeysoftware.com/
