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It is the “Reader” feature.
Click the 3½ lines button in the search bar to exit Reader mode.
One can customize this feature per website.
Safari > Preferences > Websites> Reader
Under “Automatically use Reader on the website below:”click inside box opposite website name and choose “Off”.
For more on this:
Click the “+” button opposite the section header to expand.
Safari website preferences https://support.apple.com/guide/safari/websites-preferences-ibrwe2159f50
Customize the website: https://support.apple.com/guide/safari/customize-browsing-settings-per-website-i brw7f78f7fe
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safari opens web pages in an unusual format