aTV connection issue with HDMI on Samsung LE40A558 LCD TV

I have the exact same issue with my aTV 2.0.2 and my also brand new Samsung PS50A557 plasma TV.

However, I suspect the fault lies with the Samsung and its HDMI ports, because when using component cable, the problem goes away. Hopefully, a future Samsung firmware update will fix this. I will contact the Samsung service and post results of my query here later on.

The problem here is the HDCP "handshake" issue and is a common problem with HDCP TVs and certain sources. This problem arises when two devices (usually from different manufacturers) go through the initialization process in different ways and with HDCP it goes through this process every time the source is changed or powered on. There are a few ways to fix this: First try the free methods: Change all "auto" settings on the TV and ATV to fixed settings for audio and video. Example: If you have a 1080p TV and 1080p source, set the output of the source to 1080p and the input on the TV to accept only 1080p for that input. If you don't have specific settings for resolution on each input then you will have to choose the highest common setting between all devices. Almost all manufacturers have different means of doing this but it is always changed by using the menu on the devices Note: be sure they match exactly, if your TV is only 720p and you set your ATV to 1080i you may get video, but the problem probably wont be fixed. That method probably works about 50%-60% of the time. The next method, updating the firmware, sometimes works as well but can be a pain for TVs and other devices that don't hook to the internet. It is important to read the manufacturer's instructions completely. If you are going this route the steps have to be followed perfectly, no matter how many, or how irrelevant they may seem. Another method is to buy an HDMI sync correction device (most effective, but it is still a good idea to have the most current firmware). These are small devices about 3"x2" and have a HDMI in from the device and a HDMI out to the display and usually plug into the wall for power (although some use the power-bus on the HDMI cable for power). These devices, while not very cheap (from $200-$350), they do improve video quality and correct the handshake issue. They connect inline between your TV and the source you are having the problem with. The one we use the most is the Ethereal HDMI-Digital Analysis Device or HDMI-DAD- www.etherealhometheater.com -I believe Gefen also makes one. You can also try hooking devices to each other in different sequences and different power states. Example: TV on, plug in ATV, turn on ATV or vice versa. This sometimes works but the problem may come back.

Also getting the same problem (just purchased a Samsung LE40A656). Very frustrating. Did you get a response from Samung?

I can say for certain that this isn't limited to the Samsung. I have a very similar problem with my 37" Olevia TV. I have to pull the power and reboot my Apple TV every time I want to use it. If I switch input back to Tuner or something else and come back my Apple TV will repeatedly flash up for about a second and then display the "No Signal!" screen.

It's important to note that, during those brief flashes, I can see that the screen-saver (photos) are still chugging along and I can still select menu items. It's just that the flash to the Apple TV menu is brief and a still image of what was displayed at that very second.

I've tried 3 different HDMI cables and other HDMI devices with no problems. Am I right in reasoning that something going hinky with the HDMI handshake between the Apple TV and the TV when I switch to the tuner for a bit? It's almost as though the Apple TV is still functioning fine, but the TV has lost the ability to read/display the signal. Restarting fixes it every time, but it's a slow process and an annoyance.

PJ

I have a 40" Series 750 and 53" Series 750 (LCD models) - both work great with Apple TV at 720p and 1080p, however of the four HDMI ports, via the onscreen menu in the source selection on the TV HDMI-3 is labeled HDMI/DVI - if any of your HMDI ports are singled out, give that a shot -

I have the exactly same problem with my new Samsung 32’ Full HD. If I restart my Apple TV everything is ok. But if I change to another device or turn the TV off and on, the Apple TV flashes with no signal, but I still can see the ATV Menus. Any other idea??

I have an LG. Have used HDMI ever since I got my AppleTV when it first came out. No issues at all!

I had exactly the same problem with my Samsung Series 6 LE32A656 TV, it tells you in the manual only to use version 1.3 HDMI leads, so I purchased a 1.3a lead from ebay and the problem went away. Seems Samsungs are a bit funny about the type of lead.

Rob

Just an update, I dug out my Samsung manual and this is what it says word for word:-

"HDMI cables that are not 1.3 may cause annoying flicker or no screen display"

Like I said I had exactly the same problem with my Series 6. It would display Searching for Signal and then the AppleTV display for a few seconds and then back to Searching for Signal. Over and over again. The cheapest lead I could find on ebay was a 1.3a not 1.3, but after getting it everything works great.

Rob

I'm not so sure that your problem went away because of the change to 1.3 rather than the new leads are of better quality or simply that there was a problem with the older leads.

1.3 brought about increases in bandwidth allowing higher resolutions and 48 bit video (as well as higher audio specifications) it also brought about the distinction between category 1 and category 2 cables. The tv doesn't use 48 bit video or (true HD audio), although it can output at 1080p which in theory requires a category 2 cable, however in practice while category 1 cables are only certified up to 1080i, most will be sufficiently above the minimum specifications for category 1 cables to work in most cases (long HDMI cables might be the exception).

There wasn't anything that 1.3 brought into play that affects how HDCP might work.

That doesn't mean to say that Samsung are incorrect in their statement, if you have a device capable of delivering the quality of video and audio that 1.3 allows, then you are quite likely to have a degraded or no picture at all with category 1 cables.

I think what most don't realise is that when something is 1.3 compliant (or 1.2/1.1 for that matter) it can support the features of that standard but doesn't necessarily have them.

I can`t speak to the differances between HDMI versions because I just dont know. All I do know is that the Samsung manual says to use 1.3 cables and as soon as I did my AppleTV worked perfectly, however I still use the old HDMI cable to connect my PS3 which I use for playing Blu-Rays with no problems, go figure. Seems its may be partly Apples and partly Samsungs fault and the two just dont play well together with anything other than a 1.3 cable. But hey I dont understand the inner workings I just know it worked for me. And as to the new lead being better quality trust me it was the cheapest I could find on ebay, think it cost about £5 with postage, it`s more like string than wire. But I didn`t want to spend a lot on one if it wasn`t going to solve my problem 🙂

The fact that it works for you is the main thing here.

Expensive cables that work are no better than inexpensive ones that work, although I suppose the theory is that the more you spend the less chance you have of not getting one that doesn't work. Unlike analogue cables interference cannot degrade the signal, if the 1's and 0's reach the other end in the order they are supposed to, that is more or less all that matters.

Thick cables are no better than thin ones (with perhaps the exception of longer cables), the signal is split over a number of wires and the important bit is that they arrive at the other end at exactly the same time, so the length of each wire needs to be the same to within around 1/700 th of a millimetre and the diameter needs to be perfectly uniform so that the impedance of each wire doesn't vary.

Cables can cause a number of problems, some just don't seat correctly because of excessive moulding or screw heads in the port area, indeed I have one cable that works between my tv and LG TV downstairs but not between my tv and LG TV upstairs.

It's not just Samsung. I've had a Dynex 32" 720p and now a Westinghouse 32" 720p and neither of them could communicate directly with my Apple TV via HDMI. I altered the settings as suggested earlier in the post and all my cables are 1080p 1.3 HDMI cables. There is something wrong with the research Apple put behind the HDMI ports and the "priority" system it uses, I believe. On the flip side component cables work fine, but as the original poster mentioned, "that's not the point". Saddly I am past warranty on my Apple TV and only recently upgraded to HDTV. Great timing!

That sounds very likely. My problem is with my Panasonic plasma (the Apple TV often restarts when selecting the HDMI input of the TV).