From about 2 October my MacBook Air developed the same problems as described above: no sound output and (flash) video playback issues.
Pressing the volume buttons on the keyboard flashes up the level indicator on the screen but it does not change, and also a little "O" with a line through it appears underneath. The Sound Preference panel says "No Input Devices Found" and "No Output Devices Found", and the volume slider is grayed out, set a max, with a grayed Mute box ticked.
Flash video on various sites plays only for a second or two before stopping, although the file continues to load in.
The only software I've installed around the same time this problem first occurred was CoolIris. I have since removed it using its Remove option in one of the menus.
I have also had system crashes when trying to wake from sleep. The machine gives the blue screen and either locks up, or freshly reboots to the Login Screen (with previously logged in users now logged out, ie a restart).
I think, but am not 100% certain, that I updated iTunes after the problem first appeared.
I had the same problem for days...no volume output, no volume icon, no iTunes songs...
Just install Mac OS DVD's and format your hard drive (the one from the old computer). Then use Migration Assistant from the backup you should have. That's all. Now my speakers and iTunes are working.
Ok. This hint from above didn't work out for me. Instead Repairing permissions + reboot did the job. Now everything's working as if nothing ever even happened. So no hw, but sw issue in my case.
I had this happen a couple of months ago(still under warranty), they had to replace a cable that had gone bad, not an issue with the motherboard, although that has failed now (out of warranty now)...
I had the exact same symptoms listed by others in this thread. I bought a replacement audio flex cable from a Connecting Point service center and installed it tonight and now my sound is fine again.
A couple of notes:
-It took me about two hours total, but I was EXTREMELY meticulous; lots of diagrams, careful screw management, etc.
-You'll definitely need either the "Apple black stick" OR you can try an orangewood stick; this is basically a small dowel with wedge ends. Usually they're sold as manicure supplies.
-While you've got the case open, take a chance to clean out dust and hair. I blew a bunch of dust out of the fan and now my laptop is running much cooler.
I had the exact same problem and on DIY websites you can buy the parts you need and fix it yourself but it is time consuming and you might not do it right. So i called around the mac repair shops which they all charge 60 to 100 dollars to just look at it, so i finally decided to take it to the apple store genius bar, made the appt and then the tech guy run some tests and then decided that there might be something wrong with the audio board and the flex cable, which will cost me about less than 100 to fix it (including labor) which will take 3 days, however if after replacing them both and problem still exists then he said it will be a problem with the logic board which will cost a lot more like 800 to fix. So he offered me another option which is called depot repair, $280 flat fee covers all parts and labor. So i will be taking a gamble if i choose to fix the audio board and cable and the problem go away then I am good, however if after these repair and the problem still there then i will have to do the depot repair which will cost me another $280.
Anyway so here are the options. I think $280 is a fair price to repair the problem since other mac repair shops charge you even more to fix. anyway here is my opinion. good luck
Same issue here. MacBook Air 1.6GHz, 18 months old (very early model). Running OS 10.5.6 due to issues with 10.5.7.
Sound functionality suddenly disappeared (menu bar volume control icon gone, keyboard volume controls show 'no entry' icon, sound control panel reports "no output devices" and various apps complain that the machine has no sound output capability).
PRAM zip (restart holding command-option-P-R) solved the issue twice, but it re-occured quickly both times. Now PRAM zap is ineffective. Have also tried repairing permissions, connecting and disconnecting headphones etc, all to no avail.
Seems to be another inherent MBA issue (lots of people reporting the same). I wonder whether the cycles of extreme overheating this machine seems to experience when worked hard has eventually caused something to fatigue.
I have read that some people have solved the problem by replacing an internal audio cable. Would love to hear your experiences and/or stories of cost to get Apple to do the repair.
Well my MacBook Air finally got the "No Sound" bug! I read some info around the WWW and found that it could be one of two problems. Software or Hardware. Well i did all the standard software debug steps. But with no positive outcome. Then i figured i would have to send it in to Apple to get it fixed. Called them up and i was 35 days out of my warranty. So i would have to pay out of my pocket to get it fixed. About a hour later i am laying in bed.... playing internet spades.... and boom the sound kicks in. I lift my right hand off the computer and it cut out. So i pressed back down, and it started again. I then took the bottom right corner and squeezed it together just to find the sound started working. This made my very curious. I went in to my tool box an pulled out a small screw driver and started pulling the back off the laptop. Once i got it off, took a while all the dam small *** screws have threadlock on them, i found the battery takes up most the space you see at first. I took the screws out of the battery and pulled that out. Then, if you have the laptop upside down and are looking down on the exposed guts, you can see the small black speaker housing at the bottom left (remember, looking at it from the bottom) and the gold cable that connects it as well as the small black power cable. When i pulled the gold cable out i noticed apple from the factory folds it and crams it under the battery. And from being folded and squished it started to
rip *fall apart*
break what ever you want to call it. And what must of been happening was when my hand was squeezing the laptop it was making the connection in the cable and allowing the sound to work.
Ordered a new cable from a web site, 821-0576-A = $49.95, and after about a 30min operation had it installed and the computer back together. But this time i did some custom work and did insulating. I routed the cable a better way, hoping to stop i from getting crimped. And also had some thin soft foam and put a small piece in the center of the fold so as to help prevent it from getting totally squished.
One point: After reading your post, I got concerned that the cable I had gambled on ordering might have been the wrong one, as I didn't recognise the number "821-0576-A". However, apparently this is what is written on the cable itself; the Apple part number is actually 922-8380. But it's apparently the same cable that others reported to have solved the problem (see
http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-Air-Audio-Cable/IF188-014).
I actually ordered mine from AppleComponents.com (applecomponents@mac.com).
Total cost was 26 UKP including shipping to the UK.
Based on my experience, some important tips for anyone undertaking this:
1. You need to remove the back panel, the battery (large black item), the sound module (long black item to the side of the battery) and undo the hard drive cage. All are secured with small Philips-head screws. Take care when removing the multi-wire connector that connects the battery to the motherboard.
2. Be VERY careful to take note of where each screw came from. There are long,
medium and short screws which hold the back panel, battery, hard drive tray and sound module respectively, all of which you need to remove and put back in the right place (which is not always obvious)!
3. There is a hidden screw for the hard drive under a cable, at the side of the drive closest to the middle of the machine. You need to remove that (and the others holding the drive down) in order to lift the black plastic tab that ensures that the sound cable remains connected.
4. Once your machine restarts (now with sound!) you'll have lost the clock (due to removing the battery). Open the Date & Time control panel, check 'Set Date & Time Automatically' and restart the machine again, and all will be well.
Other than that, it's not such a painful procedure, so if your machine is out of warranty, don't be scared to just order the replacement part and do a DIY install.
Please email if any questions: pjdixon at MobileMe.
fixed the problem with the audio cable as well! great detective work by all
I echo Phil's take-apart advice above and will add one additional item. Be very careful when removing the screws as they can strip easily. Your whole repair job will go away if you strip a Phillips head.
I also ordered the cable from AppleComponents - came in 4 days and worked excellently.
one piece of addnl info - my audio initially had crapped out in Feb 09 on my one year purchase anniversary.
Under warranty, Apple took a look and were dumbfounded and eventually concluded the audio cable was "loose". they never replaced it but apparently seated it. This did not work for me on this occurrence, and I needed a new cable. But I knew where to start looking (cable!) and this thread was very helpful...
