Magic Mouse keeps disconnecting from bluetooth

I've tried resetting the PRAM a couple of times, but it hasn't worked. And when I see the power light, on the underside of the mouse, flicker as I tilt the mouse, I suspect the electrical connection of the batteries. When they make good contact, I don't see the flicker. I may be wrong....but nothing except adjusting the mechanics of the batteries has helped my case. At this point I've sort of learned to live with it.

Thought I'd reported this already but my comment has mysteriously disappeared>

Apple helpdesk got me to re-set the PRAM but I continued to get disconnection as per the above description.

They have now sent me a replacement mouse (even though I was a few days out of warranty). So, great service. No more bts of paper, measuring batteries, screaming fits etc.

Thank you sooooo much! I was going mad trying to figure out why my magic mouse and Apple keyboard were constantly disconnecting. My mouse was all jerky too. PRAM reset did the job for me.

I noticed everything started going wacky when I used a bluetooth headset while chatting for awhile. After I disconnected, I also need to change the batteries in my magic mouse, because they were completely depleted. Not sure if that helps anyone else but just thought I'd explain what led up to mine having problems.

Thanks again!

I've been using Duracell batteries in Magic Mouses (?) without any problems – I'm on my third, but it's dropping them on concrete as I move around my school that kills them; now carry them in a safe pocket – and until recently haven't had any problem with drop-out whatsoever.

For me, the first solution I tried, which was cleaning the contacts inside the mouse with a cotton-tip, and also giving the ends of the batteries a bit of a clean (they still have plenty of juice so I didn't want to toss them), worked like a charm. No problem since, in more than two days.

It seems, though, that there may be a few issues, and that this can't be put down to one in specific, given the different solutions that have worked for different people.

Perhaps start with something as simple as cleaning the contacts, then work from there to other solutions like foil "pads", changing brand of battery, re-setting PRAM, etc.

Tried all the paper tricks, to no avail.

Now changed the Varta batteries for Duracells and suddenly the mouse works. Beats me...

I'm having this problem too. It began about 3 months after first use of the mouse which came with a new iMac. I have read most, although not all, of the posts on this subject. A number of posters cite problems after lifting and putting down the mouse or some other physical movement. My best guess is that it has to do with the vague and flimsy latch on the battery cover of the mouse. I use the mouse a lot daily and have run through a lot of disposible batteries, which means a lot of sliding and clicking of the latch. The first time I had to change the batteries, it was not at all clear to me that I had effectively relocked the latch. At least twice, I have found that the latch had slid out of the locked position. The little runners on the edge of the cover should provide enough space between the latch and the mousepad or the surface you're using...but maybe not. If the latch is not completely and securely locked, it would be possible for the latch to hang down low enough for it to be moved into the unlocked position in the course of use. When that happens the batteries can move in and out of the battery contacts. Has anyone else had this impression? The battery cover and latch seem sort of cheap and poorly designed to me.

This worked for me! 😁

Model Name: iMac

Model Identifier: iMac13,2

Processor Name: Intel Core i7

Processor Speed: 3.4 GHz

Follow your reasoning to the next step - the battery case should not be holding the batteries in place, and it should especially not be holding them in electrical contact. It should be a dust cover, and the ends of the holder should hold the batteries in place through thick and thin - or shake and drop.

Its a bad design. Any chance cchonig could post images of the top of a Duracell and the top of a Varta - side by side even. I'd like to see if one has a more clean tip presentation.

Now I found our that the improvement after changing to Duracells was not the real reason that it started working again: three days later the Duracells stopped working too. My conclusion was that it might be just bad contact.

I sandpapered both ends of the batteries. Then I scratched with a tiny, sharp flathead screwdriver both contacts inside the mouse: the sprung negative one and the recessed positive one. The mouse worked like a charm and has not failed since. Perhaps this works for you too...

This worked for me. THANKS!!!

Have kept original energizer batteries, no need to remove the lid, and no need to put any foil anywhere!!!

PhonicMonkey wrote:

The tapping issue is real... I can duplicate it again and again. I suspect the battery terminal connectors are ever so slightly becoming disconnected from the battery causing a "hard boot", if you will, of the mouse.

I took a few pieces of paper and rolled them into a tube and wedged it between the batteries and covering casing.. This prevents the batteries from moving. This simple hack seems to have solved the issue... Mouse has been working flawlessly.

It's been 5 months since I purchased multitouch magic mouse. And I am already on 4th Mouse!! I've been taking it to Genius bar and getting it replaced almost every month. Whats strange is, energizer batteries that come along with the mouse seem to work fine and after 1 month of usage when I swap them with duracell, this random disconnection problem arises, everytime I lift the mouse whilst scrolling results in disconnection. Random mouse shakes, turning on and off seems to bring it back to life. And sometimes it won't even turn on.

This is totally unacceptable for a mouse to disconnect with movements. I'm glad that stuffing paper seems to work for some people. But for a mouse for that price and build quality should not have such basic connectivity problems imo. 😟

Apple stuff works best with each other.

I never have issues since i invest in the apple rechargable battery for the magic mouse. The original energizer batteries also work well.

Any other brands will have bad results.. and u will end up sticking papers.. and further break the mouse and waste more money

After I fixed the mouse problem a year ago, there has not been a repeat event. That applies to both of my Macs that developed the same problem with the Magic Mouse. It is not a battery issue. It is not a battery cover issue. It is not an issue with the mouse at all. The problem is with the Mac itself and can be cured by resetting the PRAM. Sounds crazy perhaps, but it fixed the issue on two computers. I know that others want to keep fiddling with the batteries, but I am skeptical of that.

I understand there is actually 2 issues here.

If the mouse disconnect randomly, most likely its a pram issue.

However if the mouse disconnection has a pattern: Such as tab slightly on the table to move the mouse, follows by a disconnection (Such as discribe by gam3r), it is a battery issue.

And the solution is always these 2:

- Reset PRAM

OR

- Stick paper / buy energizer battery

Qida is right in my experience of this issue!

Mactoyz is wrong to ignore the battery size/type/connection issue...

Even Apple are waking upto the design fault.......