Magic Mouse Loses Connection

Yes, I too have the same problem of losing my MM connection. Been reading all the comments and suggestions posted here. Thanks to all.

I've been wondering - with all these common issues experienced by so many, has anyone experienced such a problem on any of the demo Apple computers with the MM? I went to my local Apple store to check it out.

There, a cluster of 4 demo iMacs were placed close to each other, all operating with the BT keyboards and MMs. I spent some time checking out the MMs. None of them exhibited any lost BT connections. In checking out one MM, I noticed that the battery level showed 29% - yet it could achieve an RSSI (Receiver Signal Strength Indicator - go to System Preference, Bluetooth, select MM, click on icon at bottom, at the right of the +/- buttons and select Monitor RSSI) in the region of -40 something dBm. My MM with a battery level of 87% could never achieve an RSSI of -40 something dBm (best around -50 something dBm). Attached pics for comparison.

I'm thinking - if there is poor battery connection, that would result in a lower battery level thus impacting BT connection. Of course, interference from other BT devices would make the connection weaker. But here is a scenario in which an MM operating with many other BT keyboards and MMs and with a bat level of 29% with RSSI of -40 something dBm, with no lost connection. I flipped the underside of the mouse and saw a lot of dust (from the heavy usage) accumulated. I forgot to open the battery case to check if there was an paper to keep the batteries well connected though.

Would those who have this problem before please advise what your Bat levels and RSSIs were: Before vs After (changed bat, inserted paper, etc).

2 things I wonder:

- Apart from loose bat connection, could there also be a BT radio quality issue on some of the MMs.

- Has anyone experienced dropped BT connection with the MMs on demo at the Apple Store?

Alan Learns Mac wrote:

Would those who have this problem before please advise what your Bat levels and RSSIs were: Before vs After (changed bat, inserted paper, etc).

iMac, mid 2011, Lion 7.2:

Before battery replacement: RSSI = -47 to -42; Battery level = 13%

After battery replacement: RSSI = -42 to -52 (ocasionaly -56 and -40) (see pic).

Note: I use Apple rechargeables, recharged using the Apple recharger. No paper insertion needed!

I wrote in earlier with the same issue - MM losing connection at 87% battery level (iMac, Lion OS), and had my MM replaced (one for one exchange within 2 weeks - local shop). Replaced the batteries too (now using IKEA alkaline).

It has been more than a month since then and I have never experienced any dropout in the MM connection. To get a lost MM connection now, I would have to disconnect the batteries intentionally. Now that (after prolonged gaming usage of the MM) the battery level is down to 52%, I did more experiments with the MM, while observing RSSI (Received Signal Strength Indicator). See picture below.

Observations:

- The human hand (no ring, watch or metal assessory worn) affects RSSI by about 10dB in this case.

- Amazingly, even though RSSI dropped to some -70 to -80 dBm, no MM lost connection was observed. Previously I kept losing connection at -60 something dBm (higher/better signal strength).

This means that though the BT signal (between MM and iMac) is affected by other BT devices or even passive objects in general, the point of failure may not be with the BT radios (on the iMac or the MM). This somewhat correlates with the fact that some of you changed your BT board but still experienced the same problem.

I suspect that the poor battery connection may be the root cause of this issue. Not forgetting that the MM requires more electrical power for it to sense motion (MM against the desk/pad as well as the finger touch motion on top of the MM), compared to other mice/devices. The weak battery connection, together with a higher electrical power demand by the MM may compromise electrical power to the MM's BT causing it to pause/halt/break connection with the iMac/MacPro.

Before you head to the local store to exercise your warranty rights, you may want to check out your RSSIs. Also, check your problematic MM and replacement MM against your local store's demo iMac (that never seemed to have failed in public) before you leave the store.

As mentioned previously, check the size of your batteries as this was the problem for me. Replacing the batteries with longer AA batteries was the fix for all our magic mouses in our office. I believe that this is the reason for loss of connectivity in many of the cases above.

Here are some pictures to show you the differences in size of the AA batteries. The short ones cause the issue:

Your '+' terminal should be almost completely inserted in the top who and not visable like the one on the left. If you can see it like this, it will not make enough contact to work without dropping out.

Hope this helps others.

regarding the batteries, I have two comments:

1. I just checked inside my MM and strangely enough my right battery is in a similar position to where your right battery is. The left one, however, is slightly down and I can see some of the +terminal. (I took a picture, but you really couldn't tell from that angle).

I am using the same batteries in each slot (Panasonic Evolta http://www.panasonic.com/evolta/). The -terminal spring-loaded contacts, as it turns out, are not pushing up with the same force: the right one is slightly taller than the left one.

This could also be an issue with many people. Totally agree with KAUFFILMS. Fix it already!! Do Apple people even READ these threads?

2. What is the name of your LONG battery? I see it's an Energizer, but I'll need more information. I think a lot of people have said they are using longer batteries, but actually failed to tell anyone specific deets on the product.

Nice 😀

For any of you out there that have some basic soldering skills you can permanently fix the loose battery issue. No more paper or wedging things against the compartment door.

What you do is melt blobs of solder onto the recessed positive ends. You might melt the plastic a little if your soldering iron is too hot, but it won't ruin the mouse if that happens.

Here's a picture of the mod to mine.

Apply enough solder so that the top of it is about level to the plastic. Let it cool and then pop your batteries in. You should be able to rattle, shake, drop, and abuse your mouse now without it losing power. Also you no longer have to get different batteries to make your mouse stay on.

My mouse works like a charm now, no more connection drops with this mod. Only do this if you don't care about voiding your warranty.

I have seen lots of suggested solutions, including loose battery connections, resetting the PRAM, diddling around with preferences, etc. I thought it must be something loose in the mouse itself because when I tapped it, it would reconnect. But Apple support was convinced it was in the operating system, specifically the bluetooth software, even though this was an out of the box, new computer. So we reinstalled the OSX (Yosemite), and I have not had a problem since. This did nothing to my existing documents, programs or preference. Nothing had to be reset.

Hey! I have just discovered this:

AirPort and Bluetooth: Potential sources of wireless interference

I had moved my keyboard an hour ago away to the right (my mouse in on the left because I am left handed) to see if interference was the causeI. But in view of the support document, and having a cordless phone near it, and my wired modem, I will now move the mouse somewhere away from them.

I am not making any comment on individual posts and issues with the magic mouse. But I will say this. There is definitely a hardware on the computer or a corruption in the OS occurring here in my case. Most likely a hardware on the computer. My reasons for this are. I have/ have had multiple computers all intel macs. I have had multiple mighty mouses and also have purchased a is a magic trackpad.

• point one, the problem only ever occurred on one computer that is my current model 15" mac book pro 2.3 ghz intel core i7, I also have a previous generation just superseded 17" macbook pro and a just sold early 2008 desktop. the problem did not occur on either of these machines with either of the two magic mouse. I.e. I could use the same magic mouse same batteries which cause problems with my 15" macbookpro swap it straight across to the other computer and the problem would not occur.
• point two, the problem would occur with either of the magic mouse that i used with the problem macbookpro. therefore I conclude that the mouse was not causing the problem
• point three, when the problem occurs it is duplicated on my magic trackpad i.e. when the magic mouse goes wonky the trackpad does the same
• the problem would occur with no matter what configuration of batteries etc it used in either mouse. .

I have been through absolutely everything to try and sort this problem. Frustratingly the computer will very occasionally work with out the problem occurring at all. I have bought apple rechargeable batteries. I have bought the trackpad. I have fiddled with all of the software and hardware suggestions given in this thread. I am totally annoyed with apple over this issue. this is the most frustrating issue I have ever had on a mac. I constantly loose the use of my mouse. I have to toggle bluetooth on and off to fix. I loose total productivity because of it.

Unfortunately I have some accounting software that I only use on one computer so I am dependant somewhat on it on my 15" macbook pro. this makes it difficult for me to find the chance to take this computer in to be serviced. However I will endeavour to do this shortly and report back.

So for me the issue is definitely the hardware of computer or corruption of the software. It was not fixed by updating to lion. And using lion on my macbook pro 17" the problem does not occur.

thanks David

18 months ago I had the disconnection problem with both rechargeble and alkaline batteries.

I managed to fix the alkaline battery problem with the following (from a poster on this site) -

1) Open Bluetooth Preferences

2) In the left hand window, select 'Apple Wireless Mouse'

3) Beneath the left hand window is a small gear wheel icon. With Apple Wireless mouse still selected, click on this and select 'Add to favourites".

This cured the problem for me as far as alkaline (non-rechargable) batteries are concerned but I discovered that I still needed a small amount of "BlueTak" on the battery compartment lid, a tiny amount over each battery, to stop them coming loose.

Rechargeable batteries were something else!!

At first I gave up trying to get these to work. With these my Magic Mouse simply didn't light up at all. I assumed that as they were 1.2v not 1.5v that this was the problem. Until I noticed that Apple Store was advising people that they would work.

I queried this elsewhere on this site and discovered that it was possible that they will work but for a small difference in the design of the cans at the + end. Some makes of battery have bigger 'shoulders' than others. The Magic Mouse has a thick black plastic 'bulkhead' at the + end of the battery compartment. Batteries that have the 'shrugged' shoulder (for want of a better description) can't stick their heads quite far enough through the said bulkhead to reach the contact. Or, if they can, just barely.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11373233/MacDiscussions/Magic%20Mouse%20folder/Battery%2 0Tops1.pdf

So I looked hard when I bought new rechargables. I chose those that I could see did not have that 'shrugged shoulder' (no mean feat when you consider one needs to remove the packaging to see clearly enough to make a decision about the shoulders of the cans).

I have found Duracell Rechargable "Stay Charged" 1.2v 2000 mAh perfect for the job. I have not experienced any further disconnection problems whatsover for the past 18 months other than when the batteries need recharging. The Duracells have been lasting about 21 days before needing to be recharged, by the way.

So, for me, the solution was -

1. Set the Magic Mouse as a 'Favourite' in the Bluetooth Prefs Panel
2. Put 'Bluetak' on the battery compartment lid (only a tiny amount is required) to hold the batteries steady and (with 'BlueTak' at least) absorb shocks.
3. Buy batteries that can stick their heads through the plastic bulkhead far enough to make firm enough contact

Message was edited by: El Deanio