Converting 8MM Film to 1080P

I have recently started a project to convert several reels of 8MM film to 1080P for editing in iMovie. I will describe the process for anyone who is interested.

*Previous process*
Several years ago, we captured the 8MM film footage by hanging a bed sheet on the wall, and then shooting with an analog VHS camcorder. Several years later, we converted the VHS to a DVD, and several years after that, converted the DVD to Apple Intermediate Codec using MPEG Streamclip. Then edited in iMovie to produce an h.264 file.
This was suboptimal for many reasons, including the annoying flicker from the mismatch between the frame speed of the camcorder and the film. The resolution is something less than 640x480.
[Here is a sample of the "sheet on the wall" process.|http://mitnosnhoj.tumblr.com/post/195201441/my-daughter-meredith-is-a- student-at-auburn-but]

*1080P process*
I sent the original rolls of 8MM film to mymovietransfer.com. They went through a process of cleaning the film, capturing each frame, and having a technician monitor and apply color correction.
The end product was an 18fps 1560x1080 progressive motion jpeg-A file in a MOV container on a hard drive. If I had a more powerful Mac, Final Cut Pro, and a fast RAID array, I could have chosen Apple Animation Codec or Uncompressed 4:2:2. For my setup, Motion JPEG was fine, and produced a 16GB file out of about 30 minutes of film. (You can also choose DV if you don't care about the resolution).

After receiving the hard drive in the mail, the resulting file looks great in QuickTIme Player.
I then created a 3.5 minute event from the master file in MPEG Streamclip, still in Motion JPEG.
Then I let iMovie create thumbnails. I dragged the footage into an iMovie Project in 16:9 ratio. Set the Crop tool to FIT to keep the same 1560x1080 aspect ratio + letterbox. iMovie cannot create 18fps projects, so it converts the 18fps to 29.97fps. Even so, the NTSC project comes out pretty clean. I added a photo for a title and a couple of simple transitions, and then rendered the movie as h.264 1920x1080 with fast internet streaming enabled. YouTube does not limit the file size, so I used 8000 kbps, automatic keyframes. I then uploaded this file to YouTube. YouTube does their own processing and presents the file in 1080P. The YouTube is not quite as sharp as the Motion JPEG, but it is still pretty good.
[Here is the YouTube video|http://mitnosnhoj.tumblr.com/post/479002429/1958-3-months]

iMac 24 2.8Ghz, iPhone, TV, Mac OS X (10.6.2), Panasonic HDC-SD5 iMovie 8.0.5

Posted on Mar 28, 2010 3:15 PM

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25 replies

Apr 9, 2010 6:30 AM in response to AppleMan1958

Thank you for sharing that Appleman1958 (or should I say Tim). It brings back a lot of memories. I have over 4 hours of 8mm and Super 8 movies, dating back to the early Sixties. I bought my first movie camera in 1963 when just a callow youth of 18.

Your YouTube movie looks great, considering its age (1958) - no flicker and very clear. The processor did an excellent job. Was it processed by the frame-by-frame scanning method, i.e., with each frame being scanned individually, or the usual telecine method? I know you mentioned "capturing each frame" but just wanted to be sure of the method used.

My reason for asking is that I've been contemplating doing something similar with my old footage. Like you, several years ago I transferred the films to VHS tape (no digital back then). Rather than using a screen (which I have) or a sheet on the wall (like you), I used a "black box". The box has 2 lenses, one on one end and another on one side, with a mirror arrangement inside the box. The projector is set up to project the image through the side lens onto the mirror. The camcorder records the image through the end lens. I connected my (very old) camcorder (VHS-C) directly to a VHS recorder to avoid re-recording later and thus losing quality.

This method worked quite well, but did of course result in annoying flicker. Additionally, in some sections the camcorder picked up a "hot spot" in the centre of the frame, due to the projector lamp reflecting off the mirror. I used a neutral density filter on the camera to minimise this. These two issues aside, the result was reasonable, but not as good as I would have liked.

More recently, I imported the VHS tapes into iMovie '09, creating a range of Events (but only a couple of Projects as yet). I initially did this using the "pass through" feature of my older Sony miniDV camera - but had to use iMovie 4 to achieve this (other versions after 4 didn't work with pass through). From there I moved the clips into iMovie '09. These clips, of course, are currently in DV format (due to the capture method). I've been considering converting them to AIC, Motion JPEG or Photo JPEG in order to avoid the quality complications we all read about here with exporting DV projects. I'm still experimenting with these conversion options.

On my 15" MacBook Pro, the imported video looks quite good - better than I expected, but not as good as I would prefer, particularly if also viewing on a much larger HD TV. Hence my reason for now looking at getting a professional transfer done, as you've done. The cost is a bit prohibitive though, particularly the frame-by-frame scanning method. So for now, I'll probably keep procrastinating a while longer 🙂 At least I've now got a version that can be digitally edited, albeit of non-optimal quality!

Thanks again for the very comprehensive overview of the process you've gone through. Thanks also for the wise counsel you always give to this forum - much appreciated!

John

Apr 9, 2010 6:45 AM in response to John Cogdell

Looking at Appleman's excellent 8mm recovery results, I am this week sending a whole box of 8mm tape canisters (spanning maybe 1958-63) to mymoviecapture.com (which he used). It will cost a bundle, we predict about $1400 for all if we estimated correctly. But with my parents both passing in the last few years, me and my sibs now in our 50s, and all that coming with those life changes, will make the trip back in time and then having them in a safe and much improved medium, forever worth it.

roger

Apr 9, 2010 7:07 AM in response to John Cogdell

Here is a [web page on their process|http://www.mymovietransfer.com/scanning_process.html]
I believe they scan frame by frame. If I understand it correctly, the 1080P progressive scan is frame by frame and very clean. I was told that if you go for DV rather than 1080P, that in the process of "pulling down" from 18fps to 29.97 fps interlace, you get some artifacts and motion blur. Although DV is cheaper, I decided to go for the HD version and avoid all that.
Here is [their data path|http://www.mymovietransfer.com/Transfer DataPath.html]
I found that their web page was not totally clear, but I found that I could call them and they were able to answer all my questions. If you have a technical question that the phone person cannot answer, they will find a knowledgeable techie to talk with you.
I recommend you call them with detailed questions, especially before spending a lot of money.
I had about 9 reels of tape, about 30 minutes total, and it was about $370 including the price of a hard drive.
They also offer to do a sample so you can see how it looks on your footage. I did not do this, but I downloaded one of their sample Motion JPEG files and convinced myself that my workflow in iMovie would produce acceptable results. They recommend Final Cut Pro, but I found iMovie to be fine.

Disclaimer: I have no relationship with this company except as a satisfied customer.

I also checked out some of the 8MM groups on Vimeo, and some of them claim to get better results by buying their own machine and doing it themselves, but I decided that was not for me. I also looked into several other companies, but they were mostly converting to standard def DV.

Good luck. I'd love to see your results.

Apr 9, 2010 7:58 AM in response to AppleMan1958

Thanks for the quick reply. That site is one I've looked at previously and did have bookmarked, but if I go ahead I'll probably use a company closer to home - there are a number in Australia that provide a good service, even in my State (South Australia). However, the different transfer methods are confusing.

There certainly is a lot of information to digest on MyMovieTransfer.com - I'm still not fully clear on their technique versus others I've read about - but the results speak for themselves (as in your case), so how it's done is probably a bit academic I guess. I will have a more thorough read when time permits (getting late here)!

Thanks again for the information - I will post back later if I have any further comments, just need time to digest it all 🙂

John

Apr 9, 2010 8:13 AM in response to AppleMan1958

If you want to compare "apples to apples" to the "sheet on the wall" video linked in post 1, here is the 1080P version of that same footage, now available on YouTube here


Wow! There's a marked difference between them - no flicker, clearer, not "washed out" and more saturated colours in the 1080p version. I would definitely say "money well spent". I'll now have to get serious about mine!

John

Apr 9, 2010 8:29 AM in response to rrodby

Looking at Appleman's excellent 8mm recovery results, I am this week sending a whole box of 8mm tape canisters (spanning maybe 1958-63) to mymoviecapture.com (which he used). It will cost a bundle, we predict about $1400 for all if we estimated correctly. But with my parents both passing in the last few years, me and my sibs now in our 50s, and all that coming with those life changes, will make the trip back in time and then having them in a safe and much improved medium, forever worth it.


Thanks Roger. I fully understand your sentiments. We probably shouldn't put a price on these things, as nostalgic memories are priceless, especially when they involve family members, friends and relatives who are no longer with us. Those memories, now in celluloid form, need preserving for future generations.

Thanks again for your response. It's now bedtime for me!

John

Apr 9, 2010 8:39 AM in response to AppleMan1958

FWIW, I also used this same film transfer company a few years ago after conducting a ridiculously long and laborious search. I finally decided these were the guys for my precious transfer job. Their service was professional and they even took time to discuss some technical issues with me (eg. why they weren't using wetgate cleaning). I'd recommend them to anyone.

I had them scan about 3,000 feet of 8mm film for me and put it on miniDV tapes, which is what my camcorder at the time used. I then imported the DV streams into FCP. I was generally happy with the results, but a little disappointed with the overall final image quality. I never blamed the transfer company for this - I think it's just film aging and other quality issues with the original footage. My results are very much like what you posted. I really should fire up my old 8mm projector to do a side-by-side comparison one of these days.

Anyway, given my less than stellar image results, I was a little surprised to read that you went to 1080P. I suppose I would also if I was doing this project today, but I don't think my footage would really justify the costs (processing, disk space, etc.) of any incremental improvement there might be over DV. I just don't think you could see it.

Apr 9, 2010 5:55 PM in response to AppleMan1958

Appleman; that was great. But in my mind I knew it needed the sound of an 8mm projector running quietly. Here's the URL to a free one:

http://www.freesound.org/samplesViewSingle.php?id=60453

It's described by its uploader as "Single 8 mm film projector, type Revue lux 30 a. Projector start, run at 18 fps for just over 1 minute, projector stop. Projector loaded with film on 7 inch reels." Now, you'd really have something if you added that audio track to your film.

To really top it off, look up the Glen Campbell instrumental recording of "500 Miles" done on a 12 string guitar. I'd love to see your movie with that sound track.

Thanks for bringing back the 50's, if only for a little while. It made me smile.

Eddie

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Converting 8MM Film to 1080P

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