can't access Dolby Atmos on my 2019 MacBook Pro (os Monterey 12.1) with AirPods pros (4C165)

Did you follow this setup from Apple:

1. Update your Mac to the latest version of macOS.
2. Open the Apple Music app.
3. In the menu bar, choose Music > Preferences.
4. Click the Playback tab. 
5. Choose Automatic, Always On, or turn Dolby Atmos off.

I was just told that that menu choice will only show up unless you subscribe to Apple Music

I never used this but I just checked my new MBA and I also do not have that choice. Something is wrong here unless we are not understanding something. Perhaps another person will comment.